Craigslist score.

[katoranger]

I just got me a new truck. 1987 Mazda for $150 and it runs and drives.

Just has alittle overheating problem. Hopefully a waterpump or something simple.

[TurboT]

Congrats Kato... Thermostat? Ultimate in cheap overheating repairs! :)

I'm eyeballing a Dodge Cummins diesel to haul my ass and toys around. Certainly not $150 though!!

;)

[katoranger]

My Dad is on the side of the road waiting for it to cool off. Made it the first 20 miles only about 5 to go.

It could be a thermostat or a waterpump. Hoping something simple like that. Worst case I will be finding a used engine.

This is all the truck I really need.

Allen

[suprf1y]

On my B2200 it was the rad, and the clutch fan.

[katoranger]

I am thinking similar things too. My dad said it drove good and was pretty good until they hit some traffic and had to sit.

Allen

[suprf1y]

Watch the headgasket.

I had a love hate relationship with my 93.
It was easily the worst driving vehicle I've ever owned (and I've owned some real junk), but it towed well, made great power, was good on gas, and reliable as hell.
I tried to hate it, but it wouldn't let me :lol:
I was sad to see it go, but I didn't miss it.

[katoranger]

That is probably the worst case. It had been replaced, but it could have failed again.

I can always part it out.

Allen

[AZ200cc]

Some motors use what are called stretch bolts on the heads, If they replaced the gasket and not the bolts "most people don't believe they need them" it would leak again....SOmething to look into.

[suprf1y]

Some motors use what are called stretch bolts on the heads, If they replaced the gasket and not the bolts "most people don't believe they need them" it would leak again....SOmething to look into.

Not usually.



It had been replaced, but it could have failed again.

Could very well have been a cracked head in the first place.

[SpudRider]

I just got me a new truck. 1987 Mazda for $150 and it runs and drives.

Just has alittle overheating problem. Hopefully a waterpump or something simple.
Congratulations, Allen! You have got to love Craigslist! :D

Spud :)

[AZ200cc]

Some motors use what are called stretch bolts on the heads, If they replaced the gasket and not the bolts "most people don't believe they need them" it would leak again....SOmething to look into.

Not usually.



It had been replaced, but it could have failed again.

Could very well have been a cracked head in the first place.

Yup same thing others have told me, "Nope don't need em" :lol:
But they're wrong :!: . I'm not saying this is the problem or if the truck even has them. But it something to look into due to the symptom if everything else checks out.

The replacement bolts your dealer supplied are referred to as s-t-r-e-t-c-h bolts, because they are PERMANENTLY stretched when properly installed. When stretched they actually "neck down" or have a reduced diameter and area where the metal has been stretched. This reduced area has experienced Plastic Deformation, and will not hold the same torque (tension) if applied again, it will in fact stretch more, (loosing tension) and often fracture. This is why stretch bolts must ALWAYS be replaced, and never reused.

Stretch bolts are used by car manufacturers for several reasons, usually none of what is reported in the hotrod magazines. First with stretch bolts automated engine assembly is much easier as the tightening of the bolt can vary by as much as 1/2 turn in most cases and provide the same clamp force. This is due to the fact that when a fastener is tighten into plastic deformation, it will not change it's effective tensile strength, (and clamp force) by very much over a given amount of elongation, (stretch). So when the pneumatic machine tightens the bolts in your engine, it can vary up to 1/2 turn and still have the same clamp force... at least in theory.

The second reason car companies use stretch bolts is that the newer composite head gaskets take a thermal set in operation. Solid annealed steel gaskets may have minimal gasket compression after engine operation, but usually exhibit some, though less than any of the composite gaskets. Forget what you've read about permanent torque head gaskets, as they don't really exists. Perhaps less torque LOSS gaskets would be a better term than permanent torque.

The reason for this lesson in engine design is to expose the popularity of stretch bolts. Anyone who's been in the auto industry for 20 years or more probably remembers the days when it was mandatory to re-torque head bolts on new cars after 1,000 miles or so. This was because of the above issues with gasket compression after operation. Well "stretch bolts" were intended to be the cure-all and end-all of head gasket re-torquing as the car companies were paying dealers to re-torque the head bolts on new cars, which costs lots of money. Stretch bolts may not have totally lived up to their billing.

In order for a stretch bolt to be cost effective, it is often made from low grade steel with a class rating of 10.9 and a typical tensile strength of 150,000 PSI. A metric class 10.9 rated bolt has about the same tensile strength as an SAE grade 8 bolt available from your local hardware store.. The clamp force between the head and block is limited by the yield point strength of a particular bolt. The yield point is the point at which plastic deformation (stretch) occurs with little increase in clamp force. Low strength bolts limit the available clamp force which can allow head gasket leaks.

By using a stretch bolt, manufacturers are attempting to maintain the same clamp force when a head gasket is initially installed and AFTER it has been thermally cycled and compressed. In reality, this doesn't always occur as the gaskets do not compress uniformly over the entire gasket surface, and there are other factors especially the structural rigidity of the head and block, that enter into the equation.

Due to the many variations that can and do occur, stretch bolts have a checkered history..which is, however, improving. When used in a non-gasketed installation, stretch bolts seem to meet basic clamping requirements, as long as they are not subjected to loads that exceed the tensile strengths of their design. In gasketed applications, our experience is that they are a cost effective measure for the manufacturer and less of a hassle for the home garagiste with head bolt access issues.

When (if) they fail, the symptoms are those of a head gasket failure. This typically it starts as an oil or coolant leak and can eventually lead to compression loss to the coolant system and chronic engine over-heating. This is a function of the stretch bolts having insufficient clamp force to keep the head from lifting on the gasket due to cylinder pressure. Over time the head gasket in such situation will deteriorate to the point where a leak is visible and over-heating occurs. Regardless of how competent the installer is, if the head bolts have inadequate clamp force, the problem will re-occur. The solution then is to install better quality fasteners with adequate strength to meet the demands of the application. However, these incidents are rare.

[katoranger]

Well, I don't its the head gasket. No signs of coolant in the oil and the oil level is correct. My Dad said it was fine until he got into some traffic and then it started getting hot.

I think the fan clutch may not be working. I pulled the thermostat housing off and the thermostat was missing. The pump seems to be pumping, but is suspect.

Pulled the radiator out and it looks good. Looks to be pretty new.

It wasn't smoking or missing on any cylinders either.

Allen

[SpeedSouth]

Nice find, Kato :)


I have a 94 B3000 that had a similar problem when purchased a few years ago. I replaced the thermostat and it's been fine since. I don't put a lot of miles on it, but I did put nearly 500 on it last Sunday. It still has less than 130k, which is pretty good for a 15 y/o truck, IMO.


I hope yours is a simple fix as well. There's no better truck than the one you own, when you need a truck. :lol:

[suprf1y]

However, these incidents are rare

In 30 yrs as a mechanic, I have never seen this happen.
My specialty is cylinder head work :lol:

[TurboT]

Wow.. that was some write up on 'stretch' bolts. We have an engineer amongst us! :) I always knew of them as 'torque to yield' myself.

I have 14 years in an engine shop. I've pressure tested and surfaced so many of those Mazda heads I lost count. If the problem was a cracked head, or head gasket problem, the engine would be smoking like crazy due to the antifreeze or water burning off in the cylinders, or running like shit since the compression would be seeping out of side where the gasket was split.

If none of those are apparent I would expect it's a cooling system problem like you're investigating. This is of course not my specialty as I was always working on the internal components.

[AZ200cc]

Wow.. that was some write up on 'stretch' bolts. We have an engineer amongst us! :) I always knew of them as 'torque to yield' myself.

I have 14 years in an engine shop. I've pressure tested and surfaced so many of those Mazda heads I lost count. If the problem was a cracked head, or head gasket problem, the engine would be smoking like crazy due to the antifreeze or water burning off in the cylinders, or running like sh-- since the compression would be seeping out of side where the gasket was split.

If none of those are apparent I would expect it's a cooling system problem like you're investigating. This is of course not my specialty as I was always working on the internal components.

LOL no we have a guy who can google for some person who has already typed it up and save myself an afternoon :lol:

You'll get it Kato, You're a sharp knife :D

[TurboT]

Haha... It was an interesting read for sure!

Reading all that about Mazda heads brought me back to my former life! They are bad for gasket etching into the block as well. Aluminum head and Iron block syndrome. You pull the gasket off and it looks like it's still there!

Many people just replace the gasket and don't surface anything and the etching is so bad in the block it just puffs again.. however I don't think that is the issue here since it doesn't sound like a gasket issue.

However with enough overheating the head will warp eventually and blow the gasket!

[Weldangrind]

Well, I don't its the head gasket. No signs of coolant in the oil and the oil level is correct. My Dad said it was fine until he got into some traffic and then it started getting hot.

I think the fan clutch may not be working. I pulled the thermostat housing off and the thermostat was missing. The pump seems to be pumping, but is suspect.

Pulled the radiator out and it looks good. Looks to be pretty new.

It wasn't smoking or missing on any cylinders either.

Allen

I believe part of the problem to be the missing thermostat (stay with me). :) Somebody likely removed the thermostat in response to overheating issues, perhaps due to a poor clutch fan as you say.

Old hot rodders (my Dad included) would often remove the thermostat to crutch the system, not realizing that often creates a problem. The thermostat is not only a valve, but also a restrictor. The key is in the size of the coolant passage that is exposed when the thermostat is fully open. Removing the thermostat completely causes the coolant to flow too quickly through the rad and return to the engine without sufficient contact time that any heat exchanger needs. If you insist on removing the thermostat, gut an old one to approximate a fully open thermostat.

On the matter of the head, I agree that the head and block need to be properly prepped and squared before a new gasket can be installed.

I'm glad to hear that you're not finding milkshake in the oil. Are you finding oil droplets in the coolant?

[katoranger]

No oil in the coolant either. I think we have a combination of no thermostat and a failed fan clutch. Not real sure how to test the fan clutch. I believe it works on heat doesnt it?


The radiator looks good and clean. My Dad said it was fine until he had to stop and then it would get hot.


Also the previous owner said that they machined the head when they did the gasket. I don't know if they did the block.

Allen

[suprf1y]

My rad, and fan looked fine too, but one spring day, as the weather warmed, it just started running hot. I went through the process of elimination, and ended up changing the rad.

[knothead]

No oil in the coolant either. I think we have a combination of no thermostat and a failed fan clutch. Not real sure how to test the fan clutch. I believe it works on heat doesnt it?


The radiator looks good and clean. My Dad said it was fine until he had to stop and then it would get hot.


Also the previous owner said that they machined the head when they did the gasket. I don't know if they did the block.

Allen

With the engine off (yeah, I know that you know, but....) try to turn the fan. It should turn but be really stiff. If you can turn it easily, it's bad. At least that's how Toyotas and Jeeps are..

You can get a solid (non-clutch) flex fan pretty cheap. As long as you don't try any deep water crossings they work fine.

[katoranger]

Yep. I can turn it pretty easy. It has some resistance, but not much. I tried heating alittle with a propane torch and it didn't seem to engage either. I don't know if that was a good test or not.


As for the radiator. I am going to price a new one. It won't hurt to make sure its good. I can be cheap in other areas.

Since I don't need it for a daily driver, I can take my time to get parts.

Here is some pics. I added some redneck chrome over the rust holes in the rain gutters. This is a FL coast truck.


http://picasaweb.google.com/katoranger/Mazda#

[AZ200cc]

Heck, It not in badshape, Interior seems pretty good. Could be a good getaround truck once You figure it out.

[Weldangrind]

Keep shopping for a factory style clutch fan. Marlan Davis of Hot Rod magazine says that they're the most efficient at cooling, and they don't rob as much horsepower when they're not engaged.

Failing that, I'd be tempted to switch to a junkyard electric fan and shroud. The Ford Taurus fans are popular with hot rodders because of the size and cfm rating. You could wire it through a simple factory temperature switch and then have a toggle that would allow you to bypass the temperature switch if it fails. Did I say if? :lol:

[katoranger]

I am going to just replace with an OEM style clutch.

The truck is pretty straight. Has 4 new tires and the interior is almost perfect.

Also is has AC.

This will be my winter commuter/scrap hauling/craigslist/garage sale vehicle.

I will be posting some or yesterday's garage sale finds in the for sale section. Need to make some money to buy the parts for the truck. Also pay for the tag and insurance.

Allen

[iMoose]

Good score! ANY running vehicle for $150 is a deal.

I found a '97 Nissan for $800 (book is $3k!)

Had an almost identical overheating problem. Whoever last changed the thermostat, which was recently, placed it backwards in the housing.

So after $7 later from AutoZone, great running Nissan. It's a 2wd, but it's perfect for hauling my junk to and fro. It's even an extra-cab so I can take my crazy dogs with me. lol

And the best thing about 2wd 4-cyl Japanese trucks.....gas mileage! I swear this thinggets 30mpg! Ok, maybe not 30..... but dang close!

Craig's is a good source for deals, but ya really have to look hard nowadays.

There's so many people that have totally unrealistic ideas on pricing. Especially in this economy.

[katoranger]

I am hoping to get 25mpg commuting. My jeep only gets 14-15 usually.

I found today that I can get the carseats installed in the back. I can take all 3 girls with me for home depot runs and such.

I think I am going to try to just replace the thermostat and the fan clutch and see what happens. Just drive around my neighborhood an see if it gets hot again. If so we will go from there.

Allen

[iMoose]

Mind a suggestion?

I have a metal garden hose "nozzle", JB Welded into a trimmed hockey puck. That then simply connects to city pressure via garden hose.

Why? To make a sort of seal to "flush" the cooling system.

Because as I learned with my old CJ's and Toy 4x4's, it's a VERY good idea to try and flush the engine when changing the water pump. Whatever crud fouled the pump and/or T-stat, could be floating around and clogging the cooling passages in the block too. It takes a while, but there's a weird sort of self-satisfaction ya get when clear water starts flowing out from the bottom inlet. lol Maybe it's just me.

I worked as an auto mechanic for several years(18-24), and one thing I learned from my old Polish master tech was.....

"A clean engine, inside and out, will last 3x longer than an engine merely patched with fresh parts."

Don't even get me started on cleaning oil passages and valves.

Some guys have porn, I have my "projects". lol

[katoranger]

I have thought about trying to flush it out.

Where to place it to flush it out?

Allen

[iMoose]

Take off the bottom radiator hose, and when you have the water pump OFF you'll see the "hole" or inlet where to put the "plug" you've made.

Or you could really just stick a garden hose right into some inlets. Some are small enough to not need a homemade "plug", like I made.

I made that plug because some cars are different, and I liked the fact I could make a seal.

The key is patience....and a big pan to catch the water! You will have to be able to turn the water on though WHILE holding it in place. Otherwise you'll wind up with one of those weird yard toys for kids, called a Wet Willey.

Ya don't want coolant dribbling into your yard. Especially if ya have dogs. They absolutely LURVE the taste of coolant, but it's highly poisonous to them.

A couple laps could kill a dog. So please be careful!

*note* I used a hockey puck because I could easily drill the center hole for the nozzle, then trim down with a combination of saw/dykes/dremel. Ultimately making a kind of big "cork" like for a wine bottle. Takes a while, but dramatically improves the "effectiveness" of the process.

[Weldangrind]

If you intend to flush the cooling system (which is a good idea), make sure you use low pressure. You don't want this job to include a new heater core as well.

I take off one of the heater hoses and figure out how to connect a garden hose to it. I've used various barbed fittings, depending on the heater hose size. You can often buy a cheap stepped fitting at an auto parts store that will accept hose bib thread at one end, and you then cut the other end until the plastic tube fits the heater hose.

As iMoose pointed out, glycol is poisonous to dogs, cats and kids. Don't worry about using glycol after you complete repairs. At this time of year, you can safely run just water in the cooling system while you check for leaks and overheating. Once you are satisfied, drain the water and replace it with 50/50 water and antifreeze for year-round use.

[katoranger]

Well. It already needs a heater core. It has been bypassed due to a leak there.

Since the heater lines enter at the top it would make sense to use them and flush down.

I will try to catch it all in a bucket as I go. Not much glycol left in the system either. I plan to just use water until I am sure I got it fixed.

Thanks for the tips.

Allen

[SpudRider]

Nice find, Allen! You got an amazing bargain for $150! The photos look great. :D

Spud :)

[katoranger]

Title arrived today. Time to get started on it. Needs to be ready by August 2nd. Can't drop my daughter off at school on the lifan.

Allen

[katoranger]

Well. Got to work on it today. Put it back together with a new thermostat. Ran it to get the air bubbles out. Never got hot. Seems to run pretty good. Took it for ride to the junkyard to see what parts are available there. Need an exhaust pipe.

Crack open the cap and vented out some more bubbles and topped it off again. Still not hot.

Maybe the thermostat and a good burp is all it needed.

Allen

[katoranger]

Okay. Still getting hot. I got it up to temp and I can stop the fan with my hand. It spins freely when warm.

Also I am wondering if the water pump may be weak. Might pay to just go ahead and replace it.

Allen

[Cal25]

I work with pumps all the time. they really are pretty simple. If the impellor turns, it is going to work. The problems are bearings and the seals. Loose either and its gonna leak.

All the symtoms you describe sound like the fan clutch to me. Might not be that much more work to do the water pump while changing the clutch. The pump on my Nissan was only about 15 bucks and took about 20 minutes to change. Spent most of a Saturday once changeing the pump on a Crown Vic. I guess I would depend on how long you plan to use it.

[katoranger]

Thanks. I think the pump is alittle more involved, but the clutch would be easy. It has four bolts that I can easily reach with minor skin loss.

Think I will go get a clutch and a new radiator cap while I am at it. I am planning to drive this truck for awhile. Also planning to see if I can import a Mazda RF turbodiesel to put in it.

Allen

[VinceDrake]

Hi Kato!

If you can stop the clutch fan with your hand when the radiator is good and toasty, and it doesn't hurt, that clutch is *definatly not working.* With a hot engine, and a hot radiator, engine borderline overheating, you should hear a noise from the clutch, like a jet aircraft taking off, and it should be moving a metric fork-ton of air.

They make very little consideration for noise when designing the rad fans on any vehicle, it just has to move a whole schwack of air.

Usually I keep a couple of Nissan clutch fans in stock, as they are notoriously unreliable. They seem to either not work at all, or engage all the time, making a terrible noise at highway speed.

If a clutch fails to resolve the issue, some super-cheap after market pumps use a *plastic* impeller. Whoever thought of that should be shot. What tends to happen, is the plastic impeller cracks, and then spins on the pulley shaft, so instead of a impeller turning at 3000rpms, you get an impeller turning at maybe 500rpms, or whatever it feels like at that moment. Some of the worst ones will slip when the coolant is hot, making the plastic expand.

Usually the symptoms of cheap, crappy water-pump disease are almost exactly the same like a blown headgasket, but without the white smoke, or cloudy oil.

Nissans of that era, usually used a tin impeller, but if someone at some point in time already changed it, it could have been one of the awful ones.

Hopefully this is of some help...
--Vince

[katoranger]

Thanks, I ordered a clutch from napa. Should be in in the morning. Also picking up a new radiator cap while I'm at it.

I replaced a water pump on a ford 300 6 that the impeller fell off. The china replacement pump I found was of much better quality than the one I removed.

Hopefully the fan clutch fixes it and I can drive it. Just need to fix the exhaust leak. The whole pipe if rotted out under the cab. There is one in the junkyard. I don't want to spend $50 for it new.

Allen

[katoranger]

New clutch. I can still stop it by hand, but it does not get hot now. It idled for 30 minutes in the backyard. I put a new cap on it too and it wasn't bubbling out of the new cap. I also didn't hear the hissing noise.

Temp never got above halfway on the guage and would drop back when the thermostat opened.

Just need to drain some water and add antifreeze now. I think the cap may have been part of the problem.

Allen

[katoranger]

Did all that and I went back out to check the water level. Started it up and it started smoking white. Looks like the head gasket went.

Going to find me a replacement engine. Maybe even a JDM turbodiesel :lol: .

Since it already had one headgasket odds are that it probably has some other issue too.

Allen

[katoranger]

I am going to pull the head and take a look to see what the previous "gasket replacement" was like. Only thing I will be out is time.

Allen

[TurboT]

Check for gasket flutter on the block. If it's etched you will need to get it surfaced or it will just keep blowing gaskets. These Mazda's are terrible for that and I'd be 'shocked' if it didn't need it.

[katoranger]

Found me another truck that is ready to roll. Going to part this mazda out and make some funds off of it.


Ford Rangers are much easier to find parts for. :lol: That and I like Fords. They didn't accept the bailout money.

Allen

[Cal25]

Not sure about the '87s but mazda and ford built alot of truck on the same assembly line.

[katoranger]

Yes they did. The ford courier was a rebadged mazda and then all through most of 90s mazda were rebadged rangers.

The one like I have was made when they were separate for awhile.

Parting out the mazda is going really well. I will come out ahead and still get a truck.

Allen

[Cal25]

My 91 Nissan might go the parting out way. The speedometer says 399,xxx miles. Been that way for the last 4 years since the cable broke.

Darn thing still runs good and is dependable. Just looks bad and none of the comforts work. Probally be hard to sell outrite, not sure.

[katoranger]

I rarely sell a vehicle whole anymore. The junkers I drive go the parting out way now. I bought two escorts. Put one together and drove it. Parting the other out and paid for both of them. Then use the driver for free until I used it for a trade in on the "new" van.

In college I refer to them as BIC disposable cars.


Allen

[katoranger]

Well someone offered the right money for whole truck. Its going away Thursday. I'm ahead $200 on it.

Hopefully the ranger will turn out to be a good one.

Allen

[SpudRider]

Well someone offered the right money for whole truck. Its going away Thursday. I'm ahead $200 on it.

Hopefully the ranger will turn out to be a good one.

Allen
Good luck with the Ranger, Allen. :)

Spud :)

[katoranger]

I may have turned out for the best. Called the guy morning and it turns out the clutch failed yesterday. I am going to be looking at another one later this week. When your shopping in the under a $1000 range there is not much to look at.

At least I can handle Ford technology. :lol:

Allen

[Welle417]

My first truck - 93' Explorer Eddie Bauer with 189,000 miles on it... 3 owners - bought by my brother for $9000+/- in like 01 or 02? He went and bought a Durango R/T after that (HA-love the truck, not a fan of most of the internal ANYTHING) I bought the X from him for 500 bucks (v6 4.0) (he beat the Sh*T out of it!) Changed spark plugs and swapped parts from a yard and ran like a new engine - - Sold for a fair offer after a year and then struck gold on a 97' Mountaineer 5.0 AWD V8 with 186,000 on it (the guy was a body/paint expert at a Ford Dealer for 20 years and bought it new in 97) Sold it to me for [wouldn't ya know it] FIVE-HUNDRED bucks with NEW TIRES (he almost gave it away to CHARITY for god sakes) Moved my hitch, wheels, 4x4 stuff RIGHT over to it and 18,000 miles on it in a year...i don't think i will ever buy anything BUT Ford/Lincoln/Mercury AGAIN!

here she be...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=186&pictureid=1565

I highly recommend anything from Mid Nineties Mercury and The Ford Ranger is just as well! Enjoy-- and if you have any problems, you should know about http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/ awesome for anything ford/mazda/mercury ! [/b]

[katoranger]

My preference would be a 90-95 model ranger. My criteria are 4cyl/5spd/2wd. I don't need 4x4 to drive on paved roads in the south.

I think the ranger has alittle edge on the s10 for quality. The big advantage is the number of available used parts for cheap.

Allen

[katoranger]

Well, I bought me another truck. 88 ranger regular cab. Great condition for $750. Trucks don't rust here so its pretty clean. Interior looks almost new. Also the A/C WORKS.

The mazda made a great stepping stone as it made me $200 to put toward the ranger.

Already tagged and insured. Going to go put a load of scrap in it. Need to cash in.

Allen

[FastDoc]

I have a Ranger too. '92 4X4 STX Extended cab. Enjoy!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/IMG_0971.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/IMG_0970.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/IMG_0963.jpg

[katoranger]

Well, I am able to squeeze me and two car seats in the car and took a 500lb load of scrap in yesterday. Got enough money to fill it up with gas. Been driving it the last couple days to find its quirks. All I have found is the aftermarket radio seems to loose power sometimes and the lighter doesn't work. Can't plug the garmin in. Also the wipers need replacement.

Great little truck. Hopefully the mileage will be good. The lifan feels like a rocket compared to this thing.

Allen

[katoranger]

Well so far the ranger is working out good.

Here is some random pics. Mazda going away. :lol: My daughter picking tomatos, and two of them on their china bikes. Then the ranger with it first load of scrap metal.

http://picasaweb.google.com/katoranger/Misc?authkey=Gv1sRgCNXTzu7oxu2yXA#

It has to go retrieve a rider mower later this week. Now that I have truck people call asking to use it. :?

Allen

[SpudRider]

Well so far the ranger is working out good.

Here is some random pics. Mazda going away. :lol: My daughter picking tomatos, and two of them on their china bikes. Then the ranger with it first load of scrap metal.

http://picasaweb.google.com/katoranger/Misc?authkey=Gv1sRgCNXTzu7oxu2yXA#

It has to go retrieve a rider mower later this week. Now that I have truck people call asking to use it. :?

Allen
Your daughters are absolutely beautiful! :D You, sir, are a very lucky man! :D

Spud :)

[katoranger]

Thanks. They like pictures and I have new camera to play with.

The younger one ate all the tomatos before I could get any.

Allen

[SpudRider]

...The younger one ate all the tomatos before I could get any.

Allen
Ah, the joys of being a Dad! :lol:

If she develops a taste for fresh vegetables instead of sugar, the "sacrifice" on your part is well worth it! :D

Spud :)

[katoranger]

I used tomatos as treats. They will clean their plates for a tomato slice.

Allen

[SpudRider]

I used tomatos as treats. They will clean their plates for a tomato slice.

Allen
That is absolutely wonderful! :D :D :D

Spud :)

[katoranger]

Brought a load home today. 89 Ninja EX250. It actually runs, but I will be parting it out. Far too rough.

http://picasaweb.google.com/katoranger/Ex2501989?authkey=Gv1sRgCOHS54_0j_nUOg#

[warrior91]

Some motors use what are called stretch bolts on the heads, If they replaced the gasket and not the bolts "most people don't believe they need them" it would leak again....SOmething to look into.

Not usually.



It had been replaced, but it could have failed again.

Could very well have been a cracked head in the first place.

Smart dude here...
fubar heads/motor= cheap truck

[warrior91]

Ranger is a cheap/good runaround! Good trade, less likely to heat up and blow a gasket.

[katoranger]

Plenty of cheap used engines to be had for rangers also. I unloaded that Mazda quick and made a nice profit. :lol: I know a money pit. This ranger is much cleaner and everything works. Even the AC. No more sweating. Until I need to go uphill.

Allen