Need some Ford help.

[katoranger]

My 88 Ranger will 2.3L four cylinder runs great, but starting it is a problem. When cold starts right up and runs up to a fast idle and then slowly drops down and eventually stalls unless you keep your foot on the gas. Once up to temp doesn't stall.

Warm/hot starting is another issue and I am sure they are connected. It starts alittle hard after warm. It basically seems flooded and will sputter to life and then run just fine. I notice what appear to be alittle black smoke from the tailpipe when it does this.

I has new plugs/wires/cap/rotor/fuel and air filters. Figured we might have a ford mechanic here.

Allen

[Cal25]

Is it fuel injected? Might be the idle air control valve. I had a 89 Crown Vic that had similar symtoms. It would start fine though, just had problems idling, especially when cold. Bought the idle air control valve and noticed alot of carbon when taking the old one off. For grins I cleaned up the the carbon and re-installed. It worked great and I never installed the new one. Still have it somewhere I'm sure.

[FastDoc]

I also have a Ranger. Have you tried:

www.therangerstation.com

[katoranger]

I did clean the IAC. It may be that it still isn't good enough. I also read I should have lubed it before reinstalling.

Thanks. I will take it off again and try it. I may need to spray some wd40 on it.

I forgot to mention the high Idle speed of about 1300 when warm.

Allen

[AZ200cc]

Sounds like the IAC, But those fords can be tricky.

[katoranger]

Thanks to Cal, we will shortly be able to rule out the IAC. New one on its way.

I think I will plan on replacing the O2 sensor, but I loan the special socket out and its in KY now. So probably need to get another one.

Also going to check timing. Won't hurt to make sure it set right.

The good thing is the truck is all stock and has not been hacked by someone over the years.

Allen

[FastDoc]

Wanna borrow my O2 sensor tool?

[katoranger]

I will have my friend mail mine back to me. He borrowed it and it moved to KY with him.

I checked the tires and they were all about 20-25psi so aired them up to 40psi where I like to run them. The tires are rated for 44 max.

That should help the mileage alittle bit. (Barack said so)

Neighbor kid (He's 20) was over and pointed to the IAC also. His 88 ranger was doing the same thing.

Will keep ya posted.

Allen

[Cal25]

Dropped off the IAC at the post office this morning. Should have by the weekend. Looked up the fuel mileage on this site and acctually you are not far off on the mileage.

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/Feg/bymake/bymanuNF.shtml

[katoranger]

I think with the tires inflated now I may pick up a couple mpg. My driving is suburban. Not really highway or stop and go. Usually cruising about 45-50mph.

With those numbers I am expecting about 23 or so. I can live with that. Might try so synthetic in the trans and rear end to see if that will help too.

Allen

[FastDoc]

My 4X4, driven very gently, with an A4LD automatic gets about 16 in suburban traffic. It's in perfect tune. Pretty lousy but it is what it is. I drive it mostly only in bad weather anyway. That's why we have bikes!

[katoranger]

Well this is a 4cyl 2wd 5spd with street tires. I think I was losing out with the tires low on air. Expecting at least 2 mpg increase with air in the tires.

I believe my 86 4x4 got about 20 on the hwy. Of course MN winters had lightened the load quite a bit too.

Allen

[Jim]

Sorry to jump in with no assistance of any kind...

This guy is on the electric motorcycle forum I found, he put together a little video about the mileage on his toyota...

http://truths.treehugger.com/international/double_you_gas_mileage_its_eas.php

Granted, it is probably harder to double your mileage or achieve the results he did if your car isn't running like crap to start with.

[katoranger]

That a good video. Alot of people could benefit from it. I have already done a few things there. Not sure I'm ready to ditch the bumper though. I may try to smooth up some aerodynamics.

I also don't believe the global warming nonsense either, but I don't see any reason we can't try to conserve more.

That truck going from 5mpg to 36mpg is pretty amazing though. Notice he got rid of the big mud tires and brought it down some.

[Jim]

Yeah, it was pretty bad to start with, I think I get better mileage in the Peterbilt I drive :lol:

Yeah I don't think I'd ditch the bumpers, that would likely get you a ticket, I guess dependant on local laws.

[katoranger]

I was thinking that toyota must have been in terrible condition to get 5mpg. The IH I drove with a NA 7.3 diesel loaded did about 8mpg. Now the 460 ford got about 7mpg.

I really think I will see a good improvement with the tires inflated. I would have a bed cover, but its alot of hassle to remove it to haul stuff.

If I can get it to 30mpg I will be happy.

Allen

[TurboT]

My dad owned a mid 80's 4cyl Ranger..think it was an '86. It got crap for gas mileage, he still bitches about it today! Was the last Ford he's ever owned and that is all he drove before that. Could have been a Monday morning build, as he was constantly fixing something on it. I was only just a kid when he had it but I still remember that thing farting and puking in the driveway on him!

Now he has his '94 Half Ton Chev with 400,000km on it and won't get rid of it... :)

If you get 30MPG out of that Ranger do share and I'll send you a big THUMBS up Mr. Green. :)

[katoranger]

We will see. I think I can get it to 25 for sure.

Allen

[katoranger]

Cal. Got the IAC it didn't help. Actually it idles at 1500rpm now.

My temp guages stays pretty cool all the time. I am thinking that the ECT might be faulty.

Allen

[Reveeen]

Is the "check engine" light on?
Have you tried a code reader? Are there any codes pending?

If there are no codes showing/pending (because you must remember that auto manufacturers have attempted to make their vehicles "idiot proof", it's far cheaper to charge the customer for electronic mumbo jumbo, than train mechanics) you must step into the basics. Thermostats in Ford trucks (Rangers) seem to last only a year, or two, replace your thermostat with one of the proper temperature (this is the first step, and the cheapest, in trying to regain mileage), next take a compression test of all the cylinders to check on the engine's general condition. I happen to know that sometimes the gasket between the intake manifold and the plenum chamber takes a shit, not really detectable with a vacuum gauge, and sometimes spraying oil on the seam does nothing (because the part of the gasket that takes a shit is at the back, where you can't get at it properly). A real bitch to get off, if everything else looks ok, it is worth a look.

[katoranger]

No check engine light. I am thinking that I should change the thermostat. I read that they like to run hotter. Someone may have put a 180 in there.

Still working on pulling codes. I sprayed carb cleaner around the vacuum lines and the intake manifold. No change.

I also had the battery disconnected all afternoon to reset the computer.

I really think it may be temp related. Considering that is has been about 95 degrees here and the thing only get about a 1/4 of the way of the temp guage.

Allen

[Reveeen]

only get about a 1/4 of the way of the temp gauge

Mine runs at about 1/2, but the gauges in these trucks aren't accurate. If you run the thing at factory temp the damn rad let's go, the plastic tank, over time (and heat) develops a crack. When you get it out you will see it was designed to fail. It's a Ford, you don't buy parts, you rent them.

I sprayed carb cleaner around the vacuum lines and the intake manifold

It's the gasket joint between the intake, and the plenum (that alloy casting that the throttle body hangs off of), sometimes there is no detecting a gasket failure there, you just dig out the $300 worth of snap-off tools, undo the bolts, and lift it up to see (I *think* the gasket is worth a couple of bucks).

Everything else on these vehicles is "wired" to tell you if it is fubared, other than mechanical failure.

[katoranger]

I really wouldn't surprise me to find a 180 thermostat in there. Going to drain alittle fluid and take a look and probably just pop a new one in there while its apart.

Wouldn't the truck get really lean if that gasket has failed?

As far as renting them. A GM is worse.

At least the parts are cheap.

Allen

[Reveeen]

Wouldn't the truck get really lean if that gasket has failed?

Only one cylinder would get lean, causing the computer to *think* the IAC isn't open enough (there is no single cylinder monitoring, the computer "sees" the engine as a whole), and/or the fuel gets turned up to compensate for a low/rough idle situation. It is a really "dumb" system. I would guess the EGR could be acting up (because the symptom would be the same for a stuck open EGR, but there is an electronic feed back (to the computer) for the EGR system. I have seen these gaskets fail, in Fords, at anything in excess of 100,000 km. The individual intake runners start just inside the throttle valve, so a vacuum leak at the gasket is far enough away from where the runners start for the other cylinders not to affect them much.

[katoranger]

Interesting, Well the plugs I pulled from the truck all looked fine. None indicated a lean condition. All of them about the same.

Allen

[bechandler07]

sounds to me like your coolant temp sensor could be going bad . i have been turning wrenches for almost 20 years and also work at autozone . the coolant temp sensor tells the computer that your truck is always cold causing it to go into a "flood " mode trying to crank the truck up . when the engine is warm all the other sensors are telling the computer it is warm but the cts keeps telling it it is cold causing it to pour more fuel . can also cause very crappy fuel mileage .

[Reveeen]

Do the thermostat first, before going anywhere else first, see how that goes, it's the easiest (and cheapest) thing to try.

[katoranger]

Yep. I was planning to pick a thermostat up today and get that in there. The ECT sensor is not very expensive either.

Since I plan to keep and use this truck I don't mind spending alittle to get it right.

Still have less than a china bike in it.

Allen

[katoranger]

Well Thursday after I picked up the atv I stopped to buy some batteries and came out to the ranger and it wouldn't start. Nothing when I hit the switch.

Pulled a screwdriver from the toolbox and jump the solenoid and it fired right up. Drove home and parked it. Didn't use it until today I go to start it up and nothing again. This time the screwdriver didn't work.

Seems the battery may be drained. Put the charger on it and will check it later.

Still have to fix the stalling/hard start issues.

Allen

[AZ200cc]

Low therm in it will cause it to run a little bad and bad gas milage but I doubt It would cause the hard start issue.

[katoranger]

I am wondering if the ECT may not be doing anything at all. Found out how to test it. Will try that.

I don't know where the temp guage gets it input from. It works so I don't know if there is another sensor for the guage. It may be that it is not reading high enough. The guage is barely into the normal even with the hot weather and low speed driving I do alot of.

I guess first thing is now to figure out if I have a bad switch/solenoid/starter/battery/alternator. Thought was switch/solenoid.

Allen

[katoranger]

Got home. Battery didn't seem to take a charge. Connected a good battery that is alittle low and it would attempt to start with that.

So its looks like it is battery replacement time.

Allen

[bechandler07]

the temp sensor should be right by the thermostat housing . that sensor makes the gauge read and it also sends a signal to the computer saying how cold the engine is . if it fails or doesnt read properly it will cause the truck to run REALLY rich

[katoranger]

I wouldn't say it is really rich. Probably need to check the thermostat. Who knows. It may be missing like the mazda.

Still have to solve the battery problem. I charge up another battery and will give it a try.

Allen

[katoranger]

Did some work today. Battery problem. Bad connection on positive terminal. Clean it good and truck fired right up.

Did some more looking. Found the ECT and the connection didn't look right. It wasn't connected. Pushed it on and took it for a ride. Hot starts just fine now. Guess when the PO installed the used engine he didn't get it connected well.

Also the power is much better. Even with the AC on I can pull most hills in 4th gear at 45mph. Got some big ones here in the foothills.

Feels like I picked up 10hp. This should help the mileage issue out too.

The AC is colder than the 05 chrysler.

Allen

[bechandler07]

thats great . funny how little things can gine someone so much trouble huh .

[katoranger]

I didn't even have to spend money. Both things were free. Still have a high idle though. Thats next.

Allen

[Cal25]

Did the IAC show up yet?

[katoranger]

Yep. I put it on and it didn't change anything. Actually it idles higher with the new one. I am wondering if someone had tried turning the idle adjustment screw an it won't return to a slow idle. I need to see if it is hitting the stop when up to temp.

They may be something else not quite right. At least now when I go to start it after its warm it fires right up and doesn't puff a smoke cloud of smoke.

[Cal25]

Keep fidling with it and you'll get it right. Sounds like it's almost there now. I wonder what else effects the idle system?

[katoranger]

The idle screw (not suppose to be adjustable) was tight against the throttle arm when fully warm. I backed it off about 1 1/4 turn so that it was idling about 800 rpm. Still starts just fine hot.

Will see if it changes anything as far as starting or driving it.

Allen

[katoranger]

I am wondering if Reveen is right about that intake gasket. It seems to be fine once warmed up, but will have a funny idle. Would make since that it is too lean on cold start to keep running. I installed a new 195 thermostat yesterday.

Probably plan on a gasket replacement alittle later. Won't hurt.

Allen

[Reveeen]

As soon as you lift the plenum you will see if it is good, or not, there is no mistaking it.

A 195 (if I remember correctly) is too cool, I *think* stock (factory fresh) is 205, I can make an effort to check, on Monday, if you like?

[katoranger]

The computer at the parts store said a 195 was OE. My temp guage read a the bottom of m in normal or almost halfway up. That is the hottest it has ever ran. It was barely getting warm before.

Thanks for tip on the plenum gasket. I will probably need to check and replace it just to rule it out.

Truck is running better than ever though. My mileage is getting better too.

Allen

[katoranger]

Well 5000 miles on the budget Ford. Still haven't checked that gasket, but I believe that is my problem. Getting harder to start as the weather gets colder and takes along time to warm up.

Also the temp gauge will not get to the midway point like it did in warmer weather.

I have been averaging 22.5 mpg driving in surburbia so not bad.

Allen

[katoranger]

Well it is about 8K now. Found some vacuum leaks at the MAP sensor last month and then yesterday found that the vacuum connection at the EGR was not good. Replaced that it ran rough and stall for a few starts and then seemed to correct itself and idle at about 750. Didn't get to drive it yet the rear u-joint is on the tail gate.

[2LZ]

Well it is about 8K now. Found some vacuum leaks at the MAP sensor last month and then yesterday found that the vacuum connection at the EGR was not good. Replaced that it ran rough and stall for a few starts and then seemed to correct itself and idle at about 750. Didn't get to drive it yet the rear u-joint is on the tail gate.
Boy....didn't read all 4 pages but worked on a ton of these back-in-the-day. You got a 2.3 Pinto-motored Ranger. All in all, not a bad motor but had some issues. They do like to crack pistons but it sounds' like yers are o.k. If your IAC is clean and functioning properly, you most likely may have an internal EGR leak....i.e.....the pintal and seat are no longer sealing closed, due to carbon build-up or burnt seat, allowing gasses to weap past even in 'closed' mode. That will create a lean condition which yer O2 sensor will try to adjust yer ECM for to richen it up. Keep in mind, the EGR solenoid needs to have 'known good' vac lines and also....is it working correctly to only get voltage under load? All things to keep in mind.

[katoranger]

Thanks, The EGR does seem suspect. It is running fine other than this idle issue. The stalling is not nearly as bad as it used to be. I replaced alot of vacuum lines, but still probably have to find some.

The IAC is new thanks to Cal.

All that I have left to make this truck in nearly perfect operating condition is this idle issue and the muffler.

The new MIC u-joint is nice.

[Weldangrind]

I've had success in blasting an EGR with fine grit media in a cabinet. I wouldn't recommend coarse sand though.

[katoranger]

That may be an option. I just filled up and got the best mileage since I have had the truck. 24mpg. That is about what I expected. If I can get that consistently I would be happy. I usually drive at speed under 50 so in 4th gear alot.

Going to have to pull the EGR off sometime and take a look. It ran great today. I think that vacuum line on the EGR may have help alittle more.

Allen

[FastDoc]

That may be an option. I just filled up and got the best mileage since I have had the truck. 24mpg. That is about what I expected. If I can get that consistently I would be happy. I usually drive at speed under 50 so in 4th gear alot.

Going to have to pull the EGR off sometime and take a look. It ran great today. I think that vacuum line on the EGR may have help alittle more.

Allen

Not bad. My Ranger's good for 16 around town, driven like a grandmother, and maybe 20 on the highway :P . I believe my Ranger to be in excellent condition and state of tune.

[katoranger]

Well the 2.3/5spd 2wd sure help. Of course the 50cc scooters take me off the line, but I get usually get them on the top end. :lol:


Did bring home a load of oak firewood last night though.

[FastDoc]

Mine's a 4.0 V6 A4LD auto 4X4 extended cab. Probably the worst gas mileage of the Ranger family. I've heard that the 4 cylinder 5 speeds do pretty well on gas. :D

[katoranger]

Good on gas, but slow. I can get to about 75 on the freeway. Downhill.

[FastDoc]

Is that with or without towing a boat? :P

[katoranger]

I had a 800lb cub cadet in the back and it was all it could do to maintain the speed limit on I-85. Forgot about towing anything.

[katoranger]

I was to cruise easily at 70mph today. Thats an improvement.

Went after this cub. Only about 800lbs.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/Cub%201810/024.jpg

[FastDoc]

Cool little tractor!

Our trucks are the same color, but mine's a heck of a lot more shiney! 8)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/DSC05479.jpg

[katoranger]

I was thinking about trying to polish it. Probably hasn't seen wax since the 90s.

I should snap a pic of the mint interior. The exterior is okay, but the inside is like new.

Truck was originally towed behind a motorhome. Alot of it miles were tacked on that way.

Tractor is just temporary. Has a new home in SC in a couple weeks. I sold it before I even loaded it on my truck. :wink:

Also just got me that free toolbox. It needs some aluminum polish.

[FastDoc]

Before I polished it mine looked pretty similar to yours. it took a lot of time and a lot of Meguire's and many polishing pads but its pain now is nearly as good as my Vette's. Mine was mostly outside in the desert its whole life and was faded. No rust anywhere on the truck, including the chassis.

[katoranger]

No rust on this one either. I think it will take alot of work to get it shined up, but probably be worth it.

Just have to start some year. At least it has a protective layer of grime right now.

[katoranger]

Well, back to the old ford. Still runs, but doesn't want to idle. Replaced most of the vacuum hoses, but I believe my problem is the EGR valve.

Some times it will idle pretty well, but most of the time rough and stalls.

Thinking the EGR is stuck open.

At the least the AC works.

[FastDoc]

My Ford's A/C has a slow leak. I don't even know how to figure that out...

Isn't there a code for an EGR?

[katoranger]

There is, but I don't have a CEL on my dash. Need to use an analog multimeter.

I have replaced the vacuum lines which helped some. The symptoms point to the EGR. It is not difficult to reach so I plan to pull it off and take a look.

Would it be bad to just block it off? I have heard of power gains.



On the AC leak. Is your truck still R12? Mine has been converted to R134a professionally. It works pretty good.

You can buy a can of dye and then use a black light to find the leak.

AC is used from March until November here. It is important to me.

Allen

[katoranger]

Okay. I finally had a few minutes so I pulled the EGR valve off.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/egr.jpg

Plugged up here. I think it is plugged in the open position.

[Weldangrind]

How do you plan to clean it?

[katoranger]

With the used one I just purchased on ebay.

New ones were pretty expensive, but I found a nice looking used one. Plan to bolt on and go. Its nice to have 3 vehicles to use. This one can be down while I wait on parts to arrive.

[Weldangrind]

I think I might have shared this before, but I bead blasted an EGR once, and it worked perfectly after that. It had been totally clogged.

[mizke]

egr valves just just best to replace, iacv's are much easier to clean out..

in my old honda the iacv started acting up and if i remember correctly there was a screen in it where it mated to the intake manifold that had gotten dirty.. carb cleaner took care of that..

[katoranger]

I think I might have shared this before, but I bead blasted an EGR once, and it worked perfectly after that. It had been totally clogged.

I read that, but unfortunately do not have the equipment available. I spent $21 total for what looks like a nice clean used one.

Hopefully the little thing will idle after this. It sounds like it has a big cam right now.

Mizke, I agree that replacing can be alot easier than cleaning unless you have the right tools.

Already replaced the IAC.

Allen

[mizke]

have you looked into ignition components ? coil, plugs, wires, i had a issue in my stang where during winter my belt would slip and when i did it, while it was making that god awful sound, my rpms would drop from idle to stalling out...

new plugs and coils and the wrong went away

[katoranger]

I have replaced everything, but the coil and ignition module. It needed those items when I bought the truck and it did help some.

I have replaced just about all the vacuum lines. Check the MAP sensor and the IAC. Decided it was time to check the EGR. Found it clogged up.

I would like to get the truck to idle correctly. Its gets alittle annoying trying to keep it running at a stop light.

[mizke]

have you check the mass sensor, it will be the in the intake tubing behind the filter.. i would look into checking the ignition stuff you have not check already.

does it act up while driving ? maybe something that indicate a faulty injector,

this is what my book says for my mustang

engine stalls

idle speed incorrect
fuel filter clogged and or impurities/waters in the fuel system
damaged or wet distributor cap and wires
emissions system components faulty
faulty or in correctly gapped spark plugs /also check plug wires
vacuum leak at the intake manifold or vacuum hoses
fuel injection or engine control system faulty


the vacuum leak at the intake manifold would be a faulty gasket at the manifold to head location

also under looping idle it states that a leaking egr valve or a clogged pcv valve would cause a loopy idle
other things that would cause a loop

vacuum leaks
air filter clogged
fuel pump not delivering enoguh fuel
leaking head gasket
timing chain worn
cam shaft lobes worn
valves burned or other wise leaking
ignition timing out of adjustment
ignition system not working correctly
fuel injection system part(s) faulty

[katoranger]

It could be any of that. Well not a MAF since my truck doesn't have one. The next year model did.

I have check the intake for leaks and could not find any. New fuel filter. Air filter is good too.

Its an old truck so it really could be anything on your list.

Thanks for the input. The EGR is suppose to arrive today so I am going to pick up a gasket and put it back together.

Allen

[mizke]

if that does not work, let me know and i will type out the instructions to adjust the idle on the iacv

its rare that it needs to be adjusted, but when i first got my acura integra ls it had a very low idle and nothing i did help to bring it up.. turns out that over the years the idle adjustment had not worn out, but moved.

[katoranger]

The new/used EGR did help. Still a little bit rough, but it does not stall all the time.

My exhaust smells rich. All the holes under the cab letting the exhaust smell come out. :wink:

Maybe I need to check injectors and fuel system next.

Trying to get my gas mileage up too.

Allen

[mizke]

is it pcm controlled or carb controlled

either way try throwing a aftermarket intake on it.. might help to lean it out, plus with a good intake and a good exhaust you will increase the mpg enough to notice it

[katoranger]

PCM. Fuel injected. Probably original injectors.

It really needs a new exhaust. Gets pretty loud now.

One thing that I was thinking may make a difference is the O2 sensor. I am sure its original too.

Anyway, It still runs. I will keep making repairs as needed.

The exhuast will be next. Probably put a new O2 sensor in while I am under there.

Thanks, Allen

[katoranger]

Still having the same problems. Got it nice and warm today and same thing.

[mizke]

ive driven well over 3 hours with a bad 02 sensors, they wont effect idle or really anything that you notice..

check your injectors... stick a flat head screw drive at the base of each injector below where the plug on top of it is.. then stick your ear up to it while it is running.. you should hear a consistant paced click,click,click,click.. all of them should have the same paced click sound..

magnaflow exhausts are good performance exhaust, but not to loud.. the only way to get the increase in mpg from exhaust is to go aftermarket with a free flowing muffler.. im sure they make a kit that bolts in place so no need to go to a muffler shop..

[FastDoc]

ive driven well over 3 hours with a bad 02 sensors, they wont effect idle or really anything that you notice..

check your injectors... stick a flat head screw drive at the base of each injector below where the plug on top of it is.. then stick your ear up to it while it is running.. you should hear a consistant paced click,click,click,click.. all of them should have the same paced click sound..

magnaflow exhausts are good performance exhaust, but not to loud.. the only way to get the increase in mpg from exhaust is to go aftermarket with a free flowing muffler.. im sure they make a kit that bolts in place so no need to go to a muffler shop..

Interesting technique. I'll have to remember that one. Smart.

[katoranger]

I will have to try that with the injectors. Maybe one is leaking.

[mizke]

dont think it would leak.. if one is bad its either going to be sticking, or not firing right.. also forgot to put on you put your ear up to the handle of the flat head screw drive.. lol like press it into your ear and listen for the clicks..

either way it will click differently

if you want to get the proper tool to do this, most autoparts stores sell them.. its got the head peice that docs use to listen to breathing and heart breats.. then on the end its a metal stick with a little sound peice on the end of it..

[mizke]

ive driven well over 3 hours with a bad 02 sensors, they wont effect idle or really anything that you notice..

check your injectors... stick a flat head screw drive at the base of each injector below where the plug on top of it is.. then stick your ear up to it while it is running.. you should hear a consistant paced click,click,click,click.. all of them should have the same paced click sound..

magnaflow exhausts are good performance exhaust, but not to loud.. the only way to get the increase in mpg from exhaust is to go aftermarket with a free flowing muffler.. im sure they make a kit that bolts in place so no need to go to a muffler shop..

Interesting technique. I'll have to remember that one. Smart.

lol thanks, its the poor mans way of checking injectors.. i had a bad one on my honda and didnt want to shell out the 20 to 40 bucks for the proper tool.. so a buddy said i could listen to them with screw driver.. its harder to hear them with the motor right there running.. but if you listen you will hear the faint clicking of the injector opening and closing..

kato also go buy a bottle of some good injector cleaner, and try jsut for shits and giggles, the next time you need gas.. run it down to empty and put a half tank of the high octane gas in it..

my quads idle was super bad and a friend suggested i put 93 in it.. i did and it allowed it to smooth out the idle enough to notice a difference..

[katoranger]

Well, I am going to try and listen to the injectors tomorrow.

Don't think my wife will let me use her stethoscope. Doc may have and extra one.

I have done the screwdriver trick with other things though.

My truck is the older speed density so I have a MAP instead of a MAF sensor.

Reading up on it I found that the O2 sensor is more important. Also the ECT and TPS.

Allen

[2LZ]

I've seen O2 sensor cause some real havoc, both idle and cruise.
Is it a one wire or two? I don't think they had three wire on those years.
The one wire is a simple ground. Two wire has a 'backtalk' to the ECM and the three usually is a preheater for SMOG.

Unplug the sensor and connect a jumper from the wire coming from the ECM and hold the exposed lead in one hand....then touch each battery post with your other hand. You body will create enough voltage-drop not to damage your ECM. If you get a change when you touch the positive, your O2 sensor is dead and on full rich. All they are is a little battery inside them and they wear out.

Without reading the entire thread, I'm sure you chased all your vacuum leaks with propane to eliminate those first? A vac leak on an injected system will cause your O2 sensor to tell your ECM to go full rich and funky idles, among other things.

[Weldangrind]

ive driven well over 3 hours with a bad 02 sensors, they wont effect idle or really anything that you notice..

check your injectors... stick a flat head screw drive at the base of each injector below where the plug on top of it is.. then stick your ear up to it while it is running.. you should hear a consistant paced click,click,click,click.. all of them should have the same paced click sound..

magnaflow exhausts are good performance exhaust, but not to loud.. the only way to get the increase in mpg from exhaust is to go aftermarket with a free flowing muffler.. im sure they make a kit that bolts in place so no need to go to a muffler shop..

Interesting technique. I'll have to remember that one. Smart.

It works, but I prefer the mechanic's stethoscope at HF for less than $10.00. It's very loud.

[mizke]

ive driven well over 3 hours with a bad 02 sensors, they wont effect idle or really anything that you notice..

check your injectors... stick a flat head screw drive at the base of each injector below where the plug on top of it is.. then stick your ear up to it while it is running.. you should hear a consistant paced click,click,click,click.. all of them should have the same paced click sound..

magnaflow exhausts are good performance exhaust, but not to loud.. the only way to get the increase in mpg from exhaust is to go aftermarket with a free flowing muffler.. im sure they make a kit that bolts in place so no need to go to a muffler shop..

Interesting technique. I'll have to remember that one. Smart.

It works, but I prefer the mechanic's stethoscope at HF for less than $10.00. It's very loud.

harbor frieght was not around here when i started to use the screw driver trick.. but now i have one a block away.. sadly tho their quality on some stuff sucks.. like the drill bits i bought.. 2 out of the 10 peice kit have broke and i have 1 socket wrench from them that after a year stripped out on the inside.. so for some stuff they rock, but high use stuff like socket wrenchs i go to sears and get craftsmen stuff.. cant beat the life time warranty..

buddy of mine builds boat docks and trams, well he has to scuba dive for his job on almost every tram job he does... 2 times now he has found craftsmen socket wrenchs on the bottem of the lake.. takes them home and soaks them in wd40 over night.. that gets them to work again.. then he takes a wire wheel to them and cleans the rust off.. goes to sears and they replace it for a brand new one

[katoranger]

I've seen O2 sensor cause some real havoc, both idle and cruise.
Is it a one wire or two? I don't think they had three wire on those years.
The one wire is a simple ground. Two wire has a 'backtalk' to the ECM and the three usually is a preheater for SMOG.

Unplug the sensor and connect a jumper from the wire coming from the ECM and hold the exposed lead in one hand....then touch each battery post with your other hand. You body will create enough voltage-drop not to damage your ECM. If you get a change when you touch the positive, your O2 sensor is dead and on full rich. All they are is a little battery inside them and they wear out.

Without reading the entire thread, I'm sure you chased all your vacuum leaks with propane to eliminate those first? A vac leak on an injected system will cause your O2 sensor to tell your ECM to go full rich and funky idles, among other things.

I haven't used propane, but I did use carb cleaner and sprayed lots of areas. Found some leaks and replaced a bunch of vacuum lines.

I will do some testing with the O2 sensor. I don't think its the injectors.

Not sure how many wires, but I think just one. This is a 1988 model.

Allen

[katoranger]

Oh, Didn't get to work on it today. They called and needed a load picked up for the food pantry.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDAzNzUuanBn.jpg

[Weldangrind]

You're a good guy Allen. :D

[FastDoc]

X 2. :D

[mizke]

x3

who is allen ?

[TurboT]

x3

who is allen ?

Kato is THE Allen. :)

[mizke]

oooohh

see learn people by their forum name.. lol

[katoranger]

Who's Allen :lol:

[TurboT]

oooohh

see learn people by their forum name.. lol

When you have 7149 posts in this forum your real name is going to slip out somewhere by then! Of course then you can confuse newbies by calling someone by their real name and then by their screen name, then their real name.. and suddenly newbie's heads spinning around going, "What? who??" :)

[2LZ]

One more thing to check. I'm not sure if you run a MAF sensor system or a seperate BARO and MAP sensor system. Ford did some odd things in some years.....and also combined them both.
Example: The early Tauruses had three different, custom bent, heater hose assemblies on the same year vehicles.

If you have a MAP sensor, give it the 1/2" wrench test.

Fire the vehicle, let it come to full operating temp so it's in closed loop. Then take a 1/2" (or whatever you choose) wrench and tap on the MAP sensor. If your vehicle stumbles, it's toast. It's just a small piece of cellophane inside it that the vacuum line draws on. If it's split.....it has a mind of its own.

If you have a MAF (mass airflow sensor) system on your air intake.....and it's not doing it's job....those aren't cheap. 8O

[Cal25]

Brad is correct.

[katoranger]

I have a MAP. Will give that a try. I noticed when I sprayed the area with carb cleaner that it would smooth out. Those were the first vacuum lines to be replaced.

I have noticed that it acts up more when the engine is hot, but it will do it at all temps.

Allen

[katoranger]

The ranger has been running better as of late. Doesn't stall nearly as often. Don't know what I did. Got my best tank of 23mpg.

It will be getting a muffler soon.

[FastDoc]

23 is pretty good. My Ranger struggles to get 17, and I drive it like a grandma. :?

[lego1970]

Good deal. 23mpg sound pretty good to me for a p/u.

[katoranger]

Today I had to spend $22 and do the front brakes. Two years on my little truck with very little spent.

Had to get the brakes done. Tomorrow it has mulch to haul.

[FastDoc]

Pretty inexpensive little truck to maintain. You bought well!

[SpudRider]

Pretty inexpensive little truck to maintain. You bought well!
Amen! :D

Spud :)

[katoranger]

Cheaper than a new chinabike. 8O

[katoranger]

New brake being installed.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDAzMTMtMjAxMTA2MjAtMjI0NS5qcGc.jpg

Loading up with mulch for the yard.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDAzMTctMjAxMTA2MjEtMTUxMy5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDAzMTgtMjAxMTA2MjEtMTUxMy5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDAzMTktMjAxMTA2MjEtMTUxMy5qcGc.jpg

[FastDoc]

That's a hard working 4 banger right there! :P

[katoranger]

Actually the New Holland is a 3cyl. :wink:

[SpudRider]

Actually the New Holland is a 3cyl. :wink:
Speaking of New Holland, while riding the other day I saw a beautiful New Holland tractor parked in the fields. I see some expensive, and nice farm equipment while riding in rural Idaho. Perhaps I should stop, and take some photos?

Spud :)

[katoranger]

I like pictures of tractors. It sure was nice of Mr. Ellis to load me up. I was prepared to load by hand.


Doc, the little 4cyl is put to the test alot. This mulch was fluffy and light, but the load of pine logs I hauled out was not.

[Weldangrind]

Actually the New Holland is a 3cyl. :wink:
Speaking of New Holland, while riding the other day I saw a beautiful New Holland tractor parked in the fields. I see some expensive, and nice farm equipment while riding in rural Idaho. Perhaps I should stop, and take some photos?

Spud :)

Yes please. :D

[SpudRider]

Actually the New Holland is a 3cyl. :wink:
Speaking of New Holland, while riding the other day I saw a beautiful New Holland tractor parked in the fields. I see some expensive, and nice farm equipment while riding in rural Idaho. Perhaps I should stop, and take some photos?

Spud :)

Yes please. :D
OK. ;)

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

I also seem to live in an area where people enjoy collecting, using, and restoring antique tractors. It looks like fun.

[katoranger]

Hoping to find a nice ladder rack for the ranger. I just did a contract job repairing the camera on top of a truck scale.

www.catscale.com 21 feet in the air. Took 5 minutes to adjust the camera.

I need something to haul a ladder on.

[Weldangrind]

Why not break out the welder and build one? One way is to build a headache rack that can support the front of the ladder, and then support the rear on an extension that fits in your receiver (assuming you have a receiver). You can decide whether or not to have the receiver extension at the same height as the headache rack.

[katoranger]

I have thought about building my own, but there seems to be alot of them on craigslist for cheap. Just need to find one that fits a ranger.

My neighbor thinks he knows of one I could get for $75. I can't build it for that.

[SpudRider]

Why do they call it a "headache rack?" :?:

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

I think because it's at the correct height to bang your head on. Like the trailing edge of a Cessna flap... :roll:

[Weldangrind]

It comes from larger trucks. If you were carrying a large load of something very heavy and you rear-ended someone, the material smashing throught the rear window would cause a terrible headache upon contacting your head. It would wreck your whole day.

A headache rack is a really good idea for several reasons, not the least of which is that someone can't pry your slider window open and crawl in if a headache rack is in the way. It also makes an excellent tie-down point when hauling cargo. I intend to build one for Son of Weldangrind's Ranger.

[FastDoc]

Thamks for the info Weld. I learned something new!

[SpudRider]

Thank you for providing the etymology of "headache rack," Weld. :) I thought the headache racks were mounted higher, so a long load, such as a ladder, could extend over the cab of the truck. :?:

Spud :)

[katoranger]

Spud, they often double as part of the ladder rack.

I am now considering building one too. Need to go scratch around for materials.

The idea is to actually attach the bottom of the ladder to the rear of the rack so that I can just pivot a 18' ladder up to the sign and have it anchored to the truck for stability. I wouldn't need help then.

The scale signs are 21' to the top edge.

[katoranger]

I want something like this. Light duty is fine. I don't plan to put alot of weight up that high.

http://www.pickupspecialties.com/Ladder_racks/Kargo_master/ProIITruckRack.jpg

[Weldangrind]

Do you want that just for a ladder, or do you have other gear that needs to be up there?

[katoranger]

I want it t be really stable and the the possibilities of needing to haul longer items.

The box of the ranger is only 6'. I am sure more than just a ladder will be transported up there.

[Weldangrind]

That's a good point. A top rack would be a good place to transport plywood or drywall. Is the rack 4' + wide?

[katoranger]

It should be wide enough fo plywood, but I would use the trailer for that. I am thinking 16' dimensional lumber. 32' extension ladder and things that are long and skinny.

The little truck already wallows with heavier loads.

This would be the simple option and would allow for me to use it on a larger truck later too. I could add to it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140568933470&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#ht_3649wt_830

[Weldangrind]

I spotted that rack on the original link you provided. That's a good way to go, because you can weld whatever you need onto it to make it meet your needs. Why will it fit a bigger truck? Is it telescopic?

[katoranger]

The ebay one is adjustable with telescopic tubes. You can see them in the pictures.

Also more in my budget.

[katoranger]

Today I discovered why the AC stopped working. The two bolts that hold the compressor bracket to the block are completely missing. 8O

[SpudRider]

Today I discovered why the AC stopped working. The two bolts that hold the compressor bracket to the block are completely missing. 8O
Yikes! 8O

Spud :)

[katoranger]

I will be visiting Gerald next week when I bring a load of scrap in. Sure I can find an old ranger with AC in the yard.

[katoranger]

I got these rims for free and a set of 15" tires for free. :D Going to put the two together for my next set on the ranger.

I think I will paint the rims with gloss black and get a set of chrome baby moons.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDAxNDgtMjAxMTA1MDUtMDk1NC5qcGc.jpg

[Weldangrind]

Dig the whitewalls. 8)

[SpudRider]

I want to see the chrome baby moons! Please keep us updated. :)

Spud :)

[katoranger]

Well it may be a few months. My 14s are still good.

[SpudRider]

That's OK. We are a patient group, Brother Allen. ;)

Spud :)

[katoranger]

How to remove an engine with you ranger.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDAzODEtMjAxMTA3MTEtMTgzNy5qcGc.jpg

[katoranger]

Look what I got for $100.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MjQtMjAxMTA3MzAtMTE0My5qcGc.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MjUtMjAxMTA3MzAtMTM0MC5qcGc.jpg

I need to do a little adjusting, but I couldn't build it for $100. My neighbor found it for me when he was doing a service call.

[SpudRider]

Look what I got for $100.

I need to do a little adjusting, but I couldn't build it for $100. My neighbor found it for me when he was doing a service call.
That's a great find, Allen! :D

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

Looks like nothing but a headache to me. LOL! :lol:

[katoranger]

I need to make it about 2 inches narrower and then trim about an inch from the bed rails to close the tailgate.

Not sure what kind of truck it was on, but it is pretty nice and the rear bar can be removed with two pins.

I will be using the saw, welder, and grinder in this week.

[MICRider]

That is a nice rack! It'll come in handy for hauling long light items that don't fit in the bed :). We had a rack on our farm truck and it was amazing how useful it was, definitely a good find for $100 8)

[katoranger]

I use the truck alot for hauling things. I believe it will be a good investment for me. I didn't have a good way to haul ladders before and I will probably have some new side jobs coming up soon too.

Some friends are looking at buying some rentals and need me to look after them.

[FastDoc]

Sounds like a good gig.

How's the Ranger running lately? How many miles on it now? :D

[Weldangrind]

Good score!

Before you do any chopping, it looks like that rack might fit over top of a canopy, if you're so inclined. I often see Ranger canopies on CL for cheap or free.

[katoranger]

I already have a canopy in the backyard. I am going to put a small vee in the uprights to let each side in about 1 inch and the level the base rails again. My canopy is the extra tall kind, but it would probably still fit.

The rack weights about 150lbs at most. I can slide it off and on by myself.

[katoranger]

It is almost exactly two inches too wide.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MzEtMjAxMTA4MDMtMTEzOC5qcGc.jpg

I think I can grind these welds on both side and then just slide each piece of angle inward one inch and reweld them. Easily reversible later.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MzItMjAxMTA4MDMtMTEzOC5qcGc.jpg
So I get to weld and grind.

[katoranger]

Today I made it fit.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MzMtMjAxMTA4MDQtMTAzNC5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MzQtMjAxMTA4MDQtMTA0MC5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MzYtMjAxMTA4MDQtMTEyMy5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MzctMjAxMTA4MDQtMTEzMC5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MzgtMjAxMTA4MDQtMTE0OC5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0MzktMjAxMTA4MDQtMTIyOS5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e166/katoranger/utf-8BSU1HMDA0NDAtMjAxMTA4MDQtMTI0NS5qcGc.jpg

[SpudRider]

It looks good, Allen. :)

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

Great value too!

How much do you suppose it weighs? Do you notice a performance penalty?

[katoranger]

It weighs about 100-150lbs. Performance. None to note. None to start with either. :lol:

I rarely get above 55mph. It doesn't howl or make any noise that I can note either.

[katoranger]

Back to the ac compressor bracket. The two main bolts holding the bracket to the block are not missing. They are broken off in the block. :evil:

Spent an hour getting stuff apart to discover this. Guess no AC for me. It will have to wait until I pull the engine to fix all the oil leaks.

[Weldangrind]

Your welds are too pretty to grind. I bet that little Hobart is a sweet machine for stuff like that.

Extra points for using a camo tie-down.

[katoranger]

Not all my welds are that nice and I needing to clean up the spatter. The hobart has been good for me. All the parts are available locally and it can handle everything I want.

The camo tie down will have to work until I get over and pick up some bolts.

[katoranger]

Back to the weight of the rack. Going to go with about 200lbs of rack, 150lbs of toolbox and then whatever is in the back. The stock springs are not really up to the task.

Research shows that explorer springs are thicker, but the same length. I think I will need to visit the junkyard.

[katoranger]

Waterpump gave up today.

[Weldangrind]

Did the bearing come apart, or did it just start leaking out of the weep hole?

It is running out. Not really weeping. Sounds like a bearing too. Oreilly has waterpumps as low as $16. :lol: I think I will put a new lower hose on while I am in there.

[SpudRider]

Waterpump gave up today.
I'm sorry to hear of it. :( Please do keep us updated.

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

If it's nice my Ranger you'll need 2 special and fairly cheap tools from the parts store to remove the fan. Pretty easy job.

[katoranger]

No special tools needed. The fan is held on with four bolts that just need a 10mm wrench. Took about an hour of real working time. The bearings gave out. Looked like an original part.

Replace the lower hose and thermostat while we were in there too.

[FastDoc]

The 4 banger must be different from the 4.0 in this regard. Glad you got it fixed. :D

[katoranger]

Much different. Not much engine equals lots of room to work.

[SpudRider]

I'm glad you got it repaired, Allen. :)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Years ago, my wife was driving our '89 Mercury Sable (with a 3.0l), and the water pump bearings gave up at about 90000 miles. It was a violent departure, which caused the serpentine belt to part company. As you can imagine, she lost power steering and the car overheated right away. The alternator was on a dedicated belt.

I was amazed at how easy the repair was. That was my first experience with a serpentine belt tensioner, and thought it was a genius design.

Glad you got it back on the road, Allen.

[katoranger]

Made the 22 miles to the office without a problem. Now that the waterpump is fixed I can hear new noises. :lol:

Also not sure what happened, but no signal lights now. Guessing a flasher or relay. No hazard lights either.

Parked in the office lot for the week while I am in Alabama. Will have to look next Saturday.

[katoranger]

New problem. My brake lights are out along with the hazard lights.

[FastDoc]

Bulbs?

[katoranger]

Going to check that first, but I don't think so. Taillights and turn signals are working.

[katoranger]

:oops: Easy fix. It was the fuse.

Next it sounds like rear brakes. I hear some noise there now that the waterpump isn't howling.

Having a hard time not letting the ranger go in hopes of a grown-up truck.

[katoranger]

I believe that my starter is out now. It will turn over a few seconds, but not stay engaged. Only does this after its hot.

[Weldangrind]

Like the Bendix is giving up, or like the solenoid is tired?

[katoranger]

I am thinking bendix. I jumped the solenoid and it did the same thing.

[FastDoc]

Probably Bendix then.

I'll guess it will be cheap and available at pretty much any autoparts store.

Is it easy to access on the 4 cylinder? My 4.0 and it's accessories pretty much fills the engine bay of my Ranger and it's not particularly easy to get to some items.

[katoranger]

I think so. I haven't really looked.

[katoranger]

I have noticed that if the engine is cold it will start just fine. When it is acting up the truck starts like it is flooded.

Been suspecting the TFI ignition module as culprit for some other issues and reading some other info leads me to believe that it may be causing the issue. Truck tries to fire and it kicks the bendix out.

Sometimes if the engine is working and getting hot the truck starts missing and loses power.

Another ranger I had with a 4cyl would just quit. You would spend about 20 minutes waiting for it to cool off and start again.

Might try a new module. It started fine yesterday at least 4 times. Engine never really warmed up all short distances until the last when it was warm up alittle. Sputtered to a start at the junkyard. I parked on a hill just in case. Even then it sputters to a start if hot.

[Weldangrind]

You're describing the dreaded GM starter hot-start trouble. In an older GM, the solenoid is mounted on the starter, and they can be a bear when hot. Do you plan to rebuild or buy a new starter?

IMHO, a module would cause no-run, not poor running. With a poor module, the engine will be running fine, then it will just die, as if you switched it off. Once it cools down, it will often start and run fine again. A hillbilly test is to tap it once it's running, and see if it stalls.

[FastDoc]

I don't have much to offer other than saying you can use a heat gun or a blow dryer to simulate a hot condition on the suspected part.

[katoranger]

I will probably just replace the starter. $50 and be done.

Modules are available for $25. Multiple issues, but it still runs.

[katoranger]

I just bought a new ignition module for $10 on ebay. :lol: It won't hurt to replace it since they are known weak points.

Will have to stop and pick up a new starter at some point too.

[SpudRider]

I just bought a new ignition module for $10 on ebay. :lol: It won't hurt to replace it since they are known weak points.

Will have to stop and pick up a new starter at some point too.
Nice score, Allen! :D

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

New to you, or NOS?

[katoranger]

NOS. Still in the box. I need to go find the little socket that I bought for the last one.

[Weldangrind]

That's an amazing price! Good score.

[katoranger]

New TFI installed. Nothing changed there that I noticed yet. I just replaced the starter drive. It was $16. Problem seems to be solved. Took less than an hour.

[SpudRider]

That's wonderful! Thanks for the update, Brother Allen. :)

Spud :)

[katoranger]

I need to fix all the oil leaks next. Front and rear seals, oil pan gasket, and valve cover all leak.

[Weldangrind]

If you're gonna go to that level of effort, it would also pay to clean the pickup and pan. No sense in plugging up the pump and starving the bearings after changing all of the seals.

[katoranger]

That is a good idea. It may be that I go as far as a rebuild. Plan to perform some tests. I think that the compression may be on the low side.

[Weldangrind]

When I'm at that crossroad, I usually buy another engine and rebuild it on the stand. Once it's done, I then swap them in a weekend. That plan allows you to really take your time and shop around for parts, not to mention pay attention to all of the details.

[katoranger]

I am casually watching for a replacement. I agree that would be the best solution. Not sure how much work it would be to swap to a newer 2.3l with the DIS ignition and roller cams. They have a bit more power.

[Weldangrind]

If I was swapping to something different, I'd choose a 3.0 with a 5 speed. They're cheap, plentiful, torquey and easy on fuel. You could easily find one that does not require rebuilding.

[katoranger]

That might be a maybe. Probably stick the original setup with the roller cam out of the newer 2.3l and maybe some larger injectors. That might wake it up alittle.