The OFFICIAL DS bike prep thread

[frostbite]

I've just added a new bike prep checklist (http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=65) to the content section. Please post any additions/suggestion/corrections to this thread.

Thanks,

[ohbowhntr]

USE LOCK-TITE and LOCK-WASHERS!!!!!!

ADD LOCK WASHERS TO THE EXHAUST SHIELDS!!!!

ADD LOCK WASHERS AND LOCK-TITE TO THE BATTERY BOX!!!!!

RE-WIRE or TAPE ALL EXPOSED ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS!!!!!

CHECK CHAIN TENSION!!!!

ENJOY THOROUGHLY!!!!!

[Beerslayer]

Check the gas tank for crud before filling it with fuel for the first time. If it doesn't pass the white glove test, take it off and rinse it out before filling.

[dlunt]

Check to verify that the rear disc brake is not adjusted too tight. It will swell and start tightening while riding. It will slow the bike down and smoke the brakes.

[HotelRed]

Look at the license plate holder where it bolts to the fender. Consider placing a piece of metal on the underside. One of my bolts pulled through.
(Roketa RSM 200).
John

[frostbite]

Ensure to apply a thin layer of grease to the seal of the odometer housing on the front hub (LF200GY-2). Otherwise the rotation on the dry rubber seal will cause tearing.

[dlunt]

Ensure to apply...

Have you been reading the manual? :twisted:

[frostbite]

Have you been reading the manual? :Twisted Evil

Manuals? We don't need no stinking manuals....

[shadowred]

wrong forum...my bad

[frostbite]

I've updated the DS Prep list with the additions mentioned above.

Keep'em coming....

[fashby]

Make sure you grease the swing arm bolt. My Viva GY200 had a grease fitting for this, but it wasn't welded correctly. I had to disassemble the rear suspension to grease it.

[frostbite]

Make sure you grease the swing arm bolt.

Done. Thanks for the tip.

[NewEnglandTrails]

Ensure to apply...

Have you been reading the manual? :twisted:

I still havent figured out their twisted perversion of the english language in their manuals yet. lol

[gyjoe]

Tape the electrical connectors together so they cannot pull apart. The problem area on my GY-5 was in the wiring bundle behind the headlight fairing. It is a tight fit to get all the connectors into the protective vinyl boot, and on mine the locking tabs would get pressed and the connectors would come apart. Also on the Lifan GY-5, check the grease seal on the right side of the rear axle. The inside diameter is too large (27mm), allowing dirt to have direct access to the bearing. Others have suggested replacing it with a 25mm inside diameter (size of seal is 25x47x7) and it seems to be the right fit. I had a hard time finding one locally but did get one from bikebandit.com. Lube the cables when you get the bike. I thought my clutch seemed catchy and cheap-feeling until I woke up and lubed it like I should have in the first place. Now it feels and works great. Make sure your headlight fairing is insulated from vibration. Mine had good rubber bushings for the mounting screws on the sides, but the mounting strap on the underside of the fairing was only provided with a rubber washer for the outside and not where the strap attaches on the inside of the fairing, providing a direct route for vibration to the headlight bulb. Some have had problems with headlight life, and this could be one thing that is causing a problem. The rubber chain slider works at first, but mine will be worn through to the mounting screw within the first 500 miles. Start looking for a more wear-and friction resistant material (such as nylon) to replace it with.

[fashby]

My Viva GY200 has a 28x47x7 seal and the shaft measures 25mm.

I found this web site that has many different sizes.

http://www.metricoilseal.com/seal.htm

Called and ordered 25x47x7 oil seal for 9.00 and 7.95 shipping. Kind of expensive, but the part was good quality and even has a tension spring around the seal.

Here is a picture it fit perfectly.

http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=1202
http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=1197

Thanks for the tip! This definitely needs to be replaced. This should be added to the bike prep list.

[gyjoe]

The part number for the 25x47x7 grease seal at bikebandit.com is 5086739.

[mule3010]

When checking spoke tension and adjusting be careful not to over tighten or tighten out of sequence.
Joe

[mule3010]

I mentioned this in another post but be sure to route and properly clamp the spark plug wire. Mine worked loose from the clamp on the cooling fins on the back of the engine and got badly burned on the pipe. It melted the insulator and the protective plastic heat sheild in a relatively short period. (10-15 min.)
Joe

[BCrider]

The rear oil seal needs to be changed from the 27mm id to the 25mm id for sure. Where does the electric block(resister) bolt to??In the headlamp area. Also I am short a brake caliper bolt for the front any clue who would stock them ?? The choke cable looks to be to short anyone hae that problem?? Haven't started it up yet anything more that I need to look for?? Thanks in advance :)

[NewEnglandTrails]

BCrider, Welcome to China Riders!

The only question I can answer is about the front caliper bolt.

Before I joined this sight I found out the hard way about loctiting bolts.. When I lost a front caliper bolt, I just went to my local hardware shop and matched up the remaining bolt. Added lock washers, Loctited both bolts and its been fine since.

What brand 200-GY do you have anyway?

New England Trails!!!!

[BCrider]

LIfan

[fatboy250]

My battery box (all steel construction) came apart yesterday. I finally realized something was wrong when I pulled into the gas station and saw my battery swinging in the wind with the cage still bolted around it. The two parts that bolts to the frame were still loc-tited and bolted to the frame. It appears they only tac-weld the cage and the tac-welds all broke after 500miles of riding. So, I had to go buy some JB weld and I still have it clamped and curing now. So, I'll let you know if it holds up or not. May want to check yours if you have this type.
Jason

[ImEazy]

May want to check yours if you have this type.

I have the plastic battery box. I wrapped two sets of zip ties around
the battery box and frame/seat rail just for this reason. I've since
found a web strap that I plan to install one day.

[dlunt]

The GY-5's battery box is metal and squished in between the engine, seat, tank and frame. I figure even if it works loose it isn't going anywhere. :D

[fatboy250]

The GY-5's battery box is metal and squished in between the engine, seat, tank and frame. I figure even if it works loose it isn't going anywhere. :D

That's about where I want to finally install mine. Right now it's in the stock loctation (hanging out the back left side of the bike) 8O I guess the 10yr old that put it together also engineered this idea. Very few complaints otherwise.

[fatboy250]

In reference to the swingarm grease fitting:

Also, I forgot to mention Dad and I removed the stock grease fitting for the swingarm axle and put in a new "standard" fitting. We then proceeded to pump and pump and pump and pump grease about 14-16 pumps until it was full. You guys may want to look into this. We couldn't get the grease gun to hook up to the stock fitting. It was too small and short. Ride quality seems to be a bit better since.

Jason

[fatboy250]

You may want to reinforce the mounting holes on your side covers before installing them. I have pulled through on both the mounting holes and the holes are now the size of the mounting screw heads at both bottom locations. Not sure how to fix it at this point, but some fiberglass reinforcement on the backside could have maybe prevented this.

[fatboy250]

If any of you guys decide to attach a case to your rear rack, keep an eye on the welds and stress points. Mine finally bit the dust after 3100miles. I know I was probably riding too hard with too much in the case most of the time, but that's just how it is :lol: Dad decided not to bother welding it again since it just broke in a different location this second time. He said he'll make a rack support for the new rack when I get it, that will bolt right to the frame under the center of the fender.

Jason

[amad]

Make sure your headlight fairing is insulated from vibration. Mine had good rubber bushings for the mounting screws on the sides, but the mounting strap on the underside of the fairing was only provided with a rubber washer for the outside and not where the strap attaches on the inside of the fairing, providing a direct route for vibration to the headlight bulb. Some have had problems with headlight life, and this could be one thing that is causing a problem. The rubber chain slider works at first, but mine will be worn through to the mounting screw within the first 500 miles. Start looking for a more wear-and friction resistant material (such as nylon) to replace it with.
What mounting strap? All I could figure out was that the headlight assembly had two bolts on the sides and one screw in the middle at the bottom front. And my bike does have a very annoying rattling vibration at certain rpms that could be coming from that.

[amad]

Also, there seems to be a lot of chatter coming from the top end of the motor. Has anyone had to adjust the valves when it was new? Also, I asked this in another thread, but has anyone had any oil leaks when it is new? I thought it looked like it was coming from around the exhaust header, but it may be coming from the valve cover. Has anyone had to tighten the valve cover?

[liverchip]

Which motor do you have Amad. The pushrod motors do have a bit of valve noise do to necessary clearance. As far as an oil leak, it's not uncommon for an older seal at the valve cover to leak if it's been pulled and not replaced with a new one, but if a new motor is leaking, then it's possible that the cover bolts have loosened or the seal was not properly set at the factory.

[liverchip]

Incidentally, I actually checked the clearance on mine while new and found the valves a bit tight. I set both the intake and exhaust to .05mm at TDC.

[amad]

I have the 200cc Lifan LF200GY-5. I checked the tightness of the valve cover...seemed tight. So I took it off and looked at the gasket...looked ok. I put it back on and tightened well. I'm going to go for a ride in a few minutes (25 degrees...oooh) and see how it does.

[mdsuave13]

hey amad, any updates on the engine? did you figure out what was going on?

[amad]

As it's breaking in, it seems to be getting a little better. I did notice that a lot of "squeaking" vibration is coming from the headlight. I think the headlight is rubbing against the plastic piece around it. Anybody have that problem?

[mdsuave13]

did your headlight housing have a rubber grommet for all 3 mounting bolts? cause mind did, and it doesnt squeak, but i can imagine that the plastic/metal combo may do that..

[sheadouglas]

As it's breaking in, it seems to be getting a little better. I did notice that a lot of "squeaking" vibration is coming from the headlight. I think the headlight is rubbing against the plastic piece around it. Anybody have that problem?

amad,
I have had the same little sound on my bike. It is extremely annoying, and yes I would love to be able to fix it. I've honestly just gotten used to it. If you are anything like me, I am picky over those darn small irritating sounds. Any suggestions out there how to fix this?

[mdsuave13]

are you talking about the headlight housing rubbing on the actual number plate assembly? or the whole assembly rubbing? when i took my headlight apart to paint it, it had quite a bit of adjustment in when i was putting it back together, maybe you should just take it apart and see if you cant loosen the screws holding the top of the headlight in and just try to move the light in the direction to center it up... thats what i had to do when i put it back together, otherwise i couldnt aim it correctly. (which i still need to do, i can see about 10 feet in front of the bike at the moment (at least i cant ride it yet :))

[ambassador]

With the stock headlight 10 feet is pretty good....

[mdsuave13]

nah, i know with adjustment, i can see a helluva lot further! i am going to find a new type of headlight before summer...

[fatboy250]

For Roketa Models:

Ok, Dad and I have figured out the deal on this. If you look at the bottom of your rear break master cylinder (not the slave at the wheel) you will see where the armature pushing in has two linkages with a bolt and two nuts for adjustment. Well, even with the nuts in the lowest setting where the linkages are both resting on the top nut, the master cylinder armature is still being pushed into the master cylinder creating some pressure. So, you will need to permanantly remove the nut between the two linkages and shorten the bolt (a grinding wheel may work well) so that the two linkages are touching. This will allow the master cylinder armature to release all the way out. We believe it's not necessarily a design flaw, but more of where the weld ended up for the bracket that holds both the rear foot peg bracket and the master cylinder. If this bracket weld had been about 1/2" higher the master cylinder armature would be allowed to extend all the way out with the stock bolt and nuts adjustment.

Jason

[FMYStreetRacer]

not sure if this is common or not but.... if you roll your bike forward and you hit the front brake and something feels loose in the front end. do it again but this time have a finger on the chrome nut under the handle bars. if you feel that nut move read this thread: http://chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1229&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

[Jim]

Ensure to apply a thin layer of grease to the seal of the odometer housing on the front hub (LF200GY-2). Otherwise the rotation on the dry rubber seal will cause tearing.

Hey Frostbite, sorry to be a bit air headed here... but I cant see what your talking about, I looked at the front hub of mine and couldnt see anywhere I should put grease, could you maybe post a picture? Also what type of grease? like real blue grease?

And on the subject of grease, how much should I put in the swingarm, till I see it come out somewhere?

[mdsuave13]

the front speedo unit that is next to the wheel on the front axle.. there is a c-clip in there, i just took it apart, packed it full of blue axle grease and then put it back together and applied a layer of grease anywhere it would move or rub. I also made sure to lube the speedo cable very good so that i wouldnt have to worry about breakage... (hopefully)

[ambassador]

Jim,
You bought your bike assembled, most/some of us had ours drop shipped and had to put it together ourselves, hopefully your dealer did this in prep, I would check... My suggestion, strip it down, wheels and all, fix your tire problem while your at it, grease, oil and lube everything then loc-tite it all back together..

[Jim]

Hey Ambassador, thanks for the tips, yeah mine came from a shop, the guy knows what he's doing so it should be good anyways, but I already had that off and greased up the speedo cable which was already lubricated, and the unit at the front axle seemed fine, I didn't dissasemble it but I had it apart... Also I've loctite a few bolts (axle, footpegs, anything I've had off) and checked the rest, I also check them regularily... Got the wheel all seated properly now too :) Thanks too everyone here, and to frostbite for setting this up :)

[IronFist]

If your bike comes with stickers that are really hard to get off, Ambasador has a pic of my bike with sticker on the gas tank. Would not come off. Use a hair dryer and peel with finger nail. 30 seconds tops. The glue from stickers comes right off with butter. I think wd40 works too.

[Jim]

I use dirt grease and wax remover, works great.

[AZ200cc]

OK, I keep reading about moving the needle down in the carb..What exactly will I gain by doing that? More power, Or more top speed?
I live at 7000 ft ASL..Will that matter? And if there is a thread on this already please point me in the rigtht direction..Thanks.

Oh and my labels will not come off, They clearcoated over them :D
Looks like it's time to sand the bike down

[fatboy250]

Dielectric Grease all connectors

http://www.chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=18384#18384

[John_Allen]

I’m sure this has been asked an answered, but I can’t find it anywhere. I know I need to oil my air filter, but I don’t know where it is. Can someone point me to a thread or better yet a picture, and instructions for this? Sorry, I’m still a big newbie, but learning a lot. (I have a Roketa DB-07)

Thanks for the help.

[katoranger]

Most of the time under the sidecover or seat. Find the carburetor and then look at the attached box opposite of engine. The filter is in there.

Allen

[John_Allen]

katoranger

thanks, found it and done!

John

[Tinker]

I have been fixing little things on my 07 Lifan GY-5, most recently it was the front disk brake pads. The front pads would drag on the rotor causing vibration and unpleasant noise. When I would yank hard on the front brake it would stop for a while. So I used anti squeal compound (more or less glue) on the back of the pad to stick it to the brake piston. I also replaced the stock caliper bolts with new ones from the hardware store. The oem bolts were very crappy and I am surprized that these bolts did not strip the aluminium threads tapped in the caliper. Brake works great now, motor is breaking in nice and I am getting 100 mpg!

Just added a 2nd bike to the fleet a Honda 2001 xr650l $525 salvage title flood bike. Runs good after flushing out motor, carb may need rebuild. :D

[walkingdude]

I found the rear turn signals on my LF200gy-5 almost invisible during daylight hours and replaced the smallish bulbs with standard 1156 Sylvania long life bulbs, both front and back. Made a huge difference for $1.75 per bulb.

[Gimpdiggity]

I think a proper break-in procedure should be added to the list.

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

They have a good one.

I think one of the problems that many people have with these bikes is that they just start riding them after they get them. They don't have any concern for what is necessary to get the engine running at it's best.

A correct break-in could help solve many of the issues these bikes have.

[dieselhead]

BEFORE you ride, check and REMOVE exess brake fluid from your disk brake resivoirs!! Both my GY5 and ATV were completely filled. After a few minutes riding, the petal "play" disappeared and I could smell the disk cooking!! :oops: You have to have air space in the resivoir.

[HiBirdRed]

Regarding the Initial Checklist - I've seen a couple threads that mention doing a good initial lube job on the clutch cable. Anyone concur or have additional comment?

I'm new to the Forum and am about to receive my 1st bike - 200cc Hi-Bird DS. I've appreciated all the helpful info and look forward to contributing. My only other enduro frame of reference is an 85 Honda XL 250 - had it in High School...GREAT bike, but for the $$ I'm excited to see what China will do to the motorcycle industry in the US - seems to be gaining momentum.

Cheers!

[IronFist]

Regarding the Initial Checklist - I've seen a couple threads that mention doing a good initial lube job on the clutch cable. Anyone concur or have additional comment?

I concur :)

[Death85e]

I agree !!! Without hesitation you should lube all of the cables as part of the initial setup/prep.
I did this for my wifes bike but did not do it for mine and was deffinately surprised at the difference it made. Her cables including the clutch were much smoother and easier to pull than mine.

[katoranger]

Lube the cables. I think that is why I have not experience any cable failures yet. I lubed the speedo cable too and the drive.

Allen

[liverchip]

I've yet to experience a cable failure onmy 250, but I alsol ubed 'em up quite well. I did however experience a odometer failure; the speedo was still working. I replaced the stock speedo with a Lifan cluster with a tach. Problem solved.

[seth]

I've yet to experience a cable failure onmy 250, but I alsol ubed 'em up quite well. I did however experience a odometer failure; the speedo was still working. I replaced the stock speedo with a Lifan cluster with a tach. Problem solved.

If you would not mind sharing, where did you get your speedo, tach combo.

[katoranger]

They is some sellers like www.hooperimports.com that has them but sorta of expensive.

I listed an ebay link to a guy parting a bike with 64 miles on it that has a speedo/tach combo. Look in the forsale section.

Allen

[liverchip]

It was an E-Bay part....Someone parted out a bike.

[clevelandscott]

Ensure to apply a thin layer of grease to the seal of the odometer housing on the front hub (LF200GY-2). Otherwise the rotation on the dry rubber seal will cause tearing.

Frostbite,
Do you have a photo of where to apply the grease. Stupid question I know, but I am a first timer. (Or, as I say in the training classes I conduct, "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people asking them.")

Thanks

[IronFist]

I Think

Where the cable meets the wheel/

But it might be where cable meets the speedo.

Both places are a good spot for a little grease, along with the cable if it pulls out. Just about anything that moves or rotates inside a sealed housing is a good spot for lube. What lube you ask??

Personal preference.. I'd use lithium grease. But that's just me.

[Bofusboy]

what's the best way to lube the cables? do you have to take them out of the rubber and grease by hand with a heavy lithium grease? I would imagine just spraying something like wd40 down at the levers wouldn't last very long

[IronFist]

Someone posted a cable lube kit, the spray lube and a cable clamp, to keep the lube on the cable. :D

[frostbite]

I'll see if I can dig one up.


Frostbite,
Do you have a photo of where to apply the grease. Stupid question I know, but I am a first timer. (Or, as I say in the training classes I conduct, "There are no stupid questions, only stupid people asking them.")

Thanks

[bsskibum]

frostbites above new bike prep check list isnt working link..
I am gtring to find the needle valve mod.. anone have a link for it.. tried search for my bogging problem to no avail

[Weldangrind]

That was the old forum software, and the post was from 2008. I'll see if I can fix it.

[katoranger]

We will have to look. Some of the links are not working after the new site came up.

[SpudRider]

I pointed the link in the Tech Sticky to the first page of this thread. I hope that is the correct fix. ;)

[ikeus685]

For my bike but: Its is still under a week since I placed my order. As this is an assembled bike from Venom Motorsports; Most would check the oil and tire pressure.No I am going to attempt to go pretty much as how a correct set- up should go in addition to some simple front suspension improvements. Dain and replace with 15 weight fork oil., Attempt to see if I can do the $15.00 fork mod and or attempt to induce preload.
Remove and pack both sets of wheel bearings and axle and same with a good slathering of greese to the swing arm axle. If this appears do able I can drill and tap a zerk fitting for further lubing the swing arm. Disc brake caliper mount bolts. I see a number of complaints ere so of course. loc tite.. I am going with the blue.
All engine casing and any bolts I find will get a dab of the blue. I am thinking of including liquid electrical tape to any exposed wire connections (I live in western Oregon). So I will be running in damp conditions (often).
A product that I have found a lot of use for is Flex Tape from Flex Seal.. The guy in the screen door boat:tup: Comes in an 8 1/2" wide roll so you can cut to size. Super sticky and have used on my Shadow to waterproof water ingress points to the electrical connections.
Change the engine oil. I am going with Rotella 15w40 and yes I used that in my big trucks back when I worked:)
I was thinking of soaking the chain in gear lube. But at this time don't feel inclined. I remember the days of heating up the pan of Castol-parrafin? chain lube and dropping the chain in until it had partially hardened. No chain problem with 10's of thousands of miles on those bikes. Yep! lube clutch, Brake and throttle cables..
I am going with Hi Temp marine grade grease.
Since once I take this outta the cage (When it arrives Hint-hint Road Runner!) I can roll this into my kitchen:lmao: Yeah no lady of the apartment other than my neighbor and Its been predicted that a major winter storm is heading this way. So this will be a good time to do these projects.
Hope this gave you some good info.

[ikeus685]

Someone posted a cable lube kit, the spray lube and a cable clamp, to keep the lube on the cable. :D

Tried to post a pix of these units off my phone but it didn't go thru $4.00 China and up. $7.00 and up in us for lubber unit that you put the nozzle from can into opening. Best done with cables off the bike but you can manage if you loosen attachment to brake or clutch, or throttle cable and inset the lubber and spray away. Old fashion way;.. insert nozzle as best you can into cable sleeve,. spray away.. work the cable slide back and forth.. invert cable(s) repeat..
If my picture doesn't come thru just input motorcycle cable luber into eba, amazon or whoever you use to get parts. Yea:yay: Pix came thru!!