power steering "no leak" in clutch?

[Jim]

This may be a dumb question, but I don't know a heck of a lot about different fluids... And I know there's a lot of knowledgeable people here.

I have a 97 sunfire that leaks clutch fluid, to fix I'm going to have to take off the transmission... I don't want to get into it yet, or spend much on it since it's a 97 sunfire...

I was wondering what opinions are on the idea of trying some of that power steering "no leak" or "leak stop" fluid in there that is supposed to swell up the seals? Is this stuff just a waste of money that doesn't work? Will it be ok to put in the clutch cylinder since it's designed for the power steering system? All the brake fluid in the clutch is used for is that it doesn't compress and freeze right? So I don't know what problems it would cause, unless it gummed something else up?

Input?

[lego1970]

I don't know the answers to any of your questions, but as far as the stop leak stuff. I've had some success on stopping gearbox seepage but have never had any luck on leaks that produce more then a couple drops a day. Sorry I can't be more insightful. Good luck.

[Jim]

I'm just thinking the most likely outcome would be simply that it would just leak right back out, but there's a small chance that it would plug up the small leak. As long as it won't gum anything else up I don't see the harm in trying but thought it would be best to ask opinions before trying it.

[Cal25]

Not sure in your particular situation, but usually there is a slave cylinder that operates the clutch at the transmision. Outside of the trans. case and held on with 2 bolts. Remove the 2 bolts and the hydraulic line and replace. Bleed the slave cylinder as you would a brake line.
There is also a clutch (master) cylinder on the firewall behind the clutch pedal. Most likely if you are loosing fluid it will be the slave.

[Cal25]

Just looked it up in Chiltons and you are correct. The tranaxle needs to be removed. Looks like a hydraulic throwout bearing setup. Not fun work I am sure.

That said, back to your original question, I have never heard of anyone using stop leak in a clutch system before. I might be inclined to give it a try but would not expect it to do the job.

[MICRider]

I'd be scared to try it, if it damages something in the slave (or master cylinder for that matter) you will have no clutch at all. I would just keep topping it until you can get it fixed.

[Jim]

Well as far as damaging the slave cylinder I'll have to replace it either way, and I've already had no clutch a few times... I just turn the car off, it's never been on a busy road, it could be not fun stuck on a busy road but killing the car should do the trick. I just may need to push it to a side road and get it picked up with my dads car trailer if I do that.

[FastDoc]

Just looked it up in Chiltons and you are correct. The tranaxle needs to be removed. Looks like a hydraulic throwout bearing setup. Not fun work I am sure.

That said, back to your original question, I have never heard of anyone using stop leak in a clutch system before. I might be inclined to give it a try but would not expect it to do the job.

That sucks. The only slave cylinders I've needed to replace were readily accessable....

[Jim]

Thanks for input by the way Cal :)

I also don't expect it to work, but was wondering if it may be a chance it would hold out for a while.

[Cal25]

The power sterring fluid is a little thicker. The power steering stop leak works by swelling the rubber seals. Both might be good in your case. perhaps you could mix a little of both to gether and mix it up and observe what happens? You would not want to see any adverse reactions between the 2.

[Jim]

Good idea, I\ll maybe try it out next weekend.

[Weldangrind]

At the risk of stating the obvious, power steering and hydraulic clutch / brake systems are very different, as are their fluid needs.

Brake fluid is designed to not boil until a very high temperature (284 F for DOT 3) is reached, and the by-product of that design is that it's hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture. This absorbed moisture can manifest itself as steam upon utilizing the clutch or brakes, creating air bubbles that cause a spongy pedal feel. I have no idea how stop leak stuff would react under those conditions.

All that said, the worst case I can think of is that the clutch would simply fail. How are you at power shifting? :lol: BTW, I've got a hoist and engine stand if you decide to pull the motor, trans or both. You're welcome to borrow them. I'd love to help. :D

[Jim]

Yes I don't know much about the fluids so thanks for the info.

Power shifting... Well with the synchro's it is pretty difficult. My only concern would be getting it out of gear so I don't hit something, of course I could just kill the engine but then I loose the power steering and brakes too. I would imagine if I attempt this it would be best to try it out in the country a little before heading back into town.

Thanks for the tool offers, we should be covered, I just don't want to deal with it just yet.

[katoranger]

The synchros in my ranger are showing their age. I am use to it, but someone else would have trouble shifting it.

Allen

[Weldangrind]

That's an excellent anti-theft feature. :lol:

I once had a Chev Monza with a broken firewall where the clutch cable passed through, and nobody else could drive it. I became pretty proficient at working up and down through the gears in traffic without a clutch until I could afford to fix it. :lol:

[katoranger]

I have to put it in first before it will go into reverse. Those two gears are the worst. The rest are not bad yet.

Jim, I would plan to schedule a time to just fix it the right way.

[Jim]

I've scheduled that time for whenever I have my bike back on the road :wink:

[Reveeen]

Clearly none of you have worked @ a Generous Motors dealership (stealership?).

Transmission out, synchronizers replaced in transmission , transmission in: 2.2 hours warranty time.

Putting oil in the hydraulic clutch will give you the same result as if you put in in the brake system...... might work good for a time, a short time followed by complete failure.

[katoranger]

2.2 hours translates to 2.2 days for me. I need time to run back and forth to the computer for help and coffee breaks. Plus time to go get the right tools and then pull it back out a second time after I forgot to put a part in. :oops:

[Reveeen]

My last hitch @ a Generous Motors stealership found me with 52 of these horrible front wheel drive cars apart at one time (waiting for syncronizers). I was the only guy employed there that could make money doing it at warranty time (pay). To do so, you must be an animal, ruthless with an impact gun, and not care too much about what you are doing. Under the same conditions retail is double (4.4 hours) of warranty time. At home, in the driveway, with a BIG jack, tall stands, and a shop engine crane (unless you can borrow/make the engine holding fixture) I would expect 6-8 hours of solid work with hand tools.