So angry it hurts...

[daddy469]

Went outside to take a nice afternoon ride on the 400, hit the starter switch, heard a metalic pop, bike fired up. Grabbed clutch, shifted into 1st, bike popped forward. No clutch. I'm so flipping tired of wrenching on that bike. I wish I could make it vanish from the garage because knowing it is there is really making me angry.... It still pulls, the cable is fine, and it still retracts just fine, but it does nothing. Sooooo POd.........

daddy

[FastDoc]

I'm sorry brother, I know how it feels. Stick it out, if you can iron the bugs out of that bad boy you are bound to have a lot of fun with it over the years.

Don't shoot it yet.

[Thorgram]

Ya man, don't give up on it, a clutch can be like a woman. If you don't pay attention to it it will dry up and stick or if you ride it too much it can wear out.....ummm.....nevermind.

[SpudRider]

Went outside to take a nice afternoon ride on the 400, hit the starter switch, heard a metalic pop, bike fired up. Grabbed clutch, shifted into 1st, bike popped forward. No clutch. I'm so flipping tired of wrenching on that bike. I wish I could make it vanish from the garage because knowing it is there is really making me angry.... It still pulls, the cable is fine, and it still retracts just fine, but it does nothing. Sooooo POd.........

daddy
Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh! 8O I feel you pain way over here in Idaho, brother. :x Well, if it's not the clutch cable, I'm guessing its the clutch actuator shaft at the end of the clutch cable. :roll:

Spud :(

[Weldangrind]

Not sure if this helps, but...

I just got rid of an old MX175 yesterday, and it would exhibit the same symptoms you described after a long period of non-use. If I allowed it to warm up thoroughly while holding the clutch in, it would help. Also, I would kick it into second instead of first, and the clutch plates would un-stick. After that, it ran and shifted well.

[SpudRider]

Not sure if this helps, but...

I just got rid of an old MX175 yesterday, and it would exhibit the same symptoms you described after a long period of non-use. If I allowed it to warm up thoroughly while holding the clutch in, it would help. Also, I would kick it into second instead of first, and the clutch plates would un-stick. After that, it ran and shifted well.
I hope this fixes it! :D Please keep us updated, Daddy.

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

The good news is that the bottom end appears to be XR250R. Parts will be cheap and plentiful.

That doesn't change the "sick of working on it" factor.

[MICRider]

The metallic pop kind of spooks me, but as W&G says, it's quite common for wet clutches to "stick" together after sitting for a while. Heck, KLR's are famous for it! Mine does it just from sitting overnight. On mine I pull in the clutch and then lightly blip the throttle while shifting it into gear. Some people break them loose by holding the clutch in and rocking it while it's in gear (not running of course). Hoping that's all it is, though again I must say I dont like the metallic pop part. Fingers crossed for it simply being plates stuck together from sitting.

Cheers,
Stew

[daddy469]

All good ideas to be sure. I rode it around for a good hour last night. The pull doesn't 'feel' any different, it just won't clutch. I'll probably set it on fire where it sits to be honest :x .

daddy

[MICRider]

All good ideas to be sure. I rode it around for a good hour last night. The pull doesn't 'feel' any different, it just won't clutch. I'll probably set it on fire where it sits to be honest :x .

daddy

Ouch! Ok, definitely not the clutch plates sticking together then, that is only for the initial start.

[FastDoc]

I think Spud is onto something thinking it may have to do with the clutch actuator rod. I think the clutch case cover will have to come off to see.

[daddy469]

Interesting. I can see a 'wear' mark on the actuator and I can pull it out a good cm. now. This isn't going to be like a carb on a '72 Arctic Cat where I take it apart and springs go everywhere is it? I've never taken that side off of anything before. If anyone has any photos I'd appreciate a link :)

daddy (still livid as this morning is clear and sunny)

[Jim]

This is generic info but I bet it will help, http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm I've only had the clutch apart on my cl350, but it isn't overly complicated... All the plates were varnished together.

[finnrider]

I notice that i have to warm up 400 before trying put it into gear.
I did try to put it into gear right after starting it and then it just died.
Cluth plates really stick together when it is cold.
It seems that you have now more serius problem.

[daddy469]

Whatever went 'ping' wasn't very big. Gawd, it is going to be such as pain in the a$$ to take that side off. Two words: Water Jacket.

daddy

[katoranger]

Parts. Nothing should pop out at you.

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/#/Honda/NX250_A_(88)_MOTORCYCLE%2c_JPN%2c_VIN%23_JH2MD210-JK000009_TO_JH2MD210-JK003124/RIGHT_CRANKCASE_COVER

[SpudRider]

Whatever went 'ping' wasn't very big. Gawd, it is going to be such as pain in the a$$ to take that side off. Two words: Water Jacket.

daddy
You might want to download either the NX250, and/or the XR250R service manuals before you open the right crankcase cover. ;) I think I posted a link to the XR250R service manual in my LXT 400 information thread. You might also want to get a Rotax 400 service manual; they are readily available for sale on the internet. In fact, I sold one to Fishman10; he should be able to help you with draining the engine coolant. :)

spud :)

[daddy469]

I've thought it over and if it isn't going to be an ez fix I'm going to sell it as is and be done with it. I'm not going to waste another summer dealing with it.

daddy 8)

[FastDoc]

I've thought it over and if it isn't going to be an ez fix I'm going to sell it as is and be done with it. I'm not going to waste another summer dealing with it.

daddy 8)

I was debating PM'ing you about this but since you brought it up... :roll:

Did you get it for $2,000 delivered? If so I'd FIX it first, then sell it :cry: . It is almost brand new with no miles on it to speak of you should be able to recoup your money and put it towards a used Japanese larger D/S. Heck the new KLX's even seen to be flying off the shelves around here.

Your joy/sorrow ratio on this 400m is way off, and the season just beginning this would be a great time to trade if you wanted to.

[daddy469]

Part of the problem is that I just do not have the time anymore to spend wrenching on it. My desire to apply a wrench to it has reached 0 anyway. I like the idea of a 400, but at this point I'd take a 200 lol

daddy 8)

[FastDoc]

In that case either sell it broken or bring it to a shop with a clever mechanic with a sense of humor and get it fixed. If you only paid $2,000 for it you should still break even.

[Weldangrind]

It's a real shame, no matter how you look at it. I was hopeful that you'd be in the saddle once the side cover issue was behind you.

[FastDoc]

The gamble now is the clutch. It could be simple or not so much. As much as I like the challenge of CB's, I'd wonder what's next on this bike.

Personally I think I'd still gamble on it but I do know when to throw in the towel. Remmeber my last Zong that I gave up on? :roll: I still regret the time and money I put into that lemon but it's a learning process... :cry:

[daddy469]

I'm about 90% sure it is just whatever connects the connecting rod thingy to the clutch. Problem is all the diagrams I've seen so far have been either the side cover assembly, or the clutch, but not any pictures of what actually hooks one up to the other. As far as breaking even, although that would be wonderful, I'll never break even with all the time I've wasted thus far...lol

daddy