what oil do you use?

[IronFist]

My manual told me, and I Quote.

"Use 10w 30 gaolene or better. Do not mix the two!"

I have no idea what that means. I changed out my shipping oil like the prep thread said. I used 10w 30 oil. Any suggestions on what I should have used?

What do you use?

If there is a thread like this somewhere, please point me to it and end this thread. New2riding and chinariders.

[TheOtherRide]

http://www.chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1295&highlight=oil

This may help. The search function on here works great, but it definitely helps once you've been around a little while & see what stuff people have already discussed. There's some great info in the "sticky"s at the top of the categories, too. :) I read through all of them, the tech info, parts ref, etc., before I even got my bike; it didn't all stick with me, but then I had an idea of what info was available (like carb needle adjusting!)

[red2003]

10w30 if fine for break-in. You will want to drop it again soon anyway. I changed mine out at 25 miles, 100 miles and 250 miles. I will drop it again at 500 and switch over to Mobil 1 synthetic. I think most of our bikes recommend 15w40, which I have only ever seen made for diesel trucks :? . I am running 10w40 and will either run that again in a synthetic or 15w50 for Summer driving.

[IronFist]

Thanks for pointing out that thread, Princess. I looked at the label late last night. Guess what the newb did, yep SAE with friction reducer. I'll drop it out and go 10w 40 without SAE. I did do a search on oil but came up with 18 pages of threads on oil. I never saw the thread you pointed out. Live learn and ride :)

[Jim]

I think it is motul 10w40 mineral oil I have

[pumpkin]

since these are honda clones i thought it would be ok to use honda oil. seems fine for now. my dealer had put yamalube in it at first they are a yamaha dealer also.

[SamM]

I use Harley-Davidson 20W-50 in mine. Leftover from my Buell days! After that runs out, I have some Redline 20W-50 full synthetic. I never thought I'd have another bike to run this crap in. When it's all gone I'll probably switch to Mobile 1.

[ejcycles]

Any Motorcycle Approved 10w40 or 20w50 will work Ok. Do Not run a Synthetic untill the engine is completely broken-in.

Do Not use standard car/automotive oils, as they are not made to lubricate the transmission and wet clutch, and they will foam in the top end causing engine damage.

[Jim]

After breakin, is there any reason to switch from mineral to synthetic?

[ejcycles]

Sure, Synthetic lasts twice as long, keeps the engine running cooler due to better lubricating properties, gives better fuel milage for the same reason, etc. etc. {Amsoil} It's the only Synthetic I carry at my shop. I run Amsoil in everything that I own the best there is! I have a 1991 GMC C-1500 with 320,000 miles on it, doesn't smoke a bit, runs great and the engine has not ever beem torn down. It drips a little from the rear main seal but after this many miles I guess it would. Here read some about it... http://www.amsoil.com/

Again here too, Motorcycle Synthetic Oil Only!

[Jim]

Thanks for the info Bruce :)

[FMYStreetRacer]

read towards the bottom here: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

[Penguini66]

read towards the bottom here: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

Great read...Thanks for the link. :D

I should probably change the oil in the bike since it has sat all winter. Guess its off to Wally World to see if they have some of the Shell Rotella-T Synthetic. Also might pick up some extra and try it in my girlfriends 2.5 Turbo Subaru engine ('06 Forester).

[IronFist]

Well I can go cancel that motor oil course I was going to take. :)
I changed out the shipping oil my bike came with, but I used 10w30 with friction reducers. So i changed it with Canadian Tire 10w40 motorcycle oil. Still waiting for Ins and plates, so can't break in my motor. Sounds like Synthetic is the way to go eventually.

I fired up the bike and it wanted to walk slowly forward in first gear, with the clutch pulled in.
Afer a couple minutes the walking went away. Is this normal after a change? Newb.

[ambassador]

Great read, especially the Synthetic break-in part, as I've said before, my Toyota Camry XLE V-6 came with Mobil 1 right out of the factory and I've never had any problems, BTW Toyota just topped GM in first quarter sales so they must be doing something right but that's another topic...
I broke in my bike with Rotella non-synthetic and shortly switched to Mobil-1 for 4-strokes, no problems with the bike either...

[red2003]

Newb, no it's not normal for the bike to creep like that. Sounds like you need a clutch cable adjustment. Ambassador, that Camry motor was more then likely broken in on a motor stand before it ever made it into the car. That's why some come from the factory with synthetic already in them.

[IronFist]

I tried it again today, no creeping forward in 1st with clutch ingaged. I figure the plates wern't lubed after the oil was changed. Anyway it's fine now. Though the clutch cable probably needs lube as squeezing the clutch handle feels too stiff.

Can somone point me to the lubing the clutch cable for newb's thread with pictures for newbs page? thanks. N2R 150cc xingyue easyxy

[allfunmotorsport]

The best way I found to lube cables is to take the cable off coil it so you cab put it in a tub of oil for a bit then take it out and move the cable back and forth. hang it for a bit to let the lube run threw. and repeat till it feels smooth. then wipe it down and reinstall. when you reinstall the cable make sure there are no sharp bends it the cable.

hope this helps :D

[IronFist]

The best way I found to lube cables is to take the cable off coil it so you cab put it in a tub of oil
hope this helps :D

Take cable off coil part is still iffy

any kind of oil? 10w30
sewing machine 3in1
wd40?
N2R :?

[allfunmotorsport]

sorry, what I should of said is: remove the cable from the bike..Coil it small enough, so it will fit it to a coffee can then puor some motor oil in to the can.5w30 10w30 10w40. I do things the long slow way often. there is (I'm sure)faster easyer ways, but this way you can inspect the condition of the cable and housing to give you peace of mind. Also you will get to know alot more about the bike by taking it apart and putting it together your self. you can just spray any lube on the cable at the leaver and work it and hope that it has been installed right.?

[ejcycles]

The best way I have found to Lube Cables is with a MP Cable Luber.
http://chinariders.net/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=4514&g2_navId=x62ff093a

[FreightTrain]

maxima chain n cable wax works great!!

[Penguini66]

Thanks again to FMY. Picked up a gallon of the Rotella-T Synthetic at WallyWorld tonight for $16 that should net me about 3 oil changes. For a little over $5/oil change it's kind of a no-brainer. I like changing the oil in this thing. Takes no more than 10 minutes including rounding up an oil pan.

[Penguini66]

Changed the oil last night and rode the bike to work this AM. Maybe I'm going crazy but I actually think the engine is quieter now. Significantly quieter. The "sewing machine" sound is nearly non apparent. Perhaps the oil that was in there from last fall was just bad and was making a lot of noise. Perhaps the Rotella-T Synthetic is all it's cracked up to be. Who knows. All I know is that's all I'll be putting in the bike from now on.

[IronFist]

Thanks EJ, it looks like the thing to have. Saves me from re-snaking the cable. N2R 150cc xingyue