why qlink sold some of their bikes cheap

[weiser23]

they sold them cheap and only gave 6 month parts only warranty.
are these bikes junk, dangerous, my bikes swing arm only has a adjustment scale on one side, does anybody else have that, and what else is wrong, one of of our members had his engine blow up,with 1200 km on it what was the cause of the timing chain to break :?:

[makenzie71]

Expense, reliability, performance...you can only have two in your favor.

The bikes are cheap because they're made by people who bring in a month what you make in a year, using substandard materials, with the least technology possible. Considering the quality of materials used, some of the bikes are going to break or perform inexplicably and unexpectedly. It's all a pretty fair balance in my mind, but yeah...you do get what you pay for in most cases. When you buy a $1500 bike, expect to get a $1500 bike.

[weiser23]

Dont get me wrong I love my bike , but with the honda qlink shop calling qlink and getting the sense of urgency to fill out the paper work and explain the warrenty has me thinking , and the fact my engine is so noisy I was told the valve should made noise but it didnt sound like this 4 months ago , AS a kid I have had honda xl & xr & cl I just dont remember valves like that,

[makenzie71]

Well why they're cheap is explained, and in the end you still have a cheap bike. I wouldn't worry about a noisy motor unless the noises are coming from the bottom end. You can check by getting a hard-handled screwdriver and putting the tip to various places on the motor while it's running and listening to the handle like a stethoscope...or you could use a stethoscope.

If you're getting a rhythmic ticking from the top it's fine...just valves. You don't really need to worry about clearances until you can't hear them ticking (too tight). In the unlikely chance you have a OHC engine you might also be able to hear some chain lash, but it should be minimal.

The bottom end should be a whir of noise, but no impact sounds...no ticks or knocks or anything.

I would check valve clearances and keep them set...outside of them, change the oil and keep the bolts tight. You can't do much else. No need to worry about them too much...you can replace the motors for less than $400. Rebuilding one of the push rod engines is very simple, too, and the parts are well under the $200 mark.

[FastDoc]

A a kid I have had honda xl & xr & cl I just dont remember valves like that.

Yup, as FastDoc has been known to say, 'Hondas are Hondas, Chinabikes are Chinabikes.' :wink:

[FastDoc]

I wouldn't worry about a noisy motor unless the noises are coming from the bottom end.

Agreed. This is why I sold my PP400 when I did. The bottom end noises sounded potentially preterminal :cry: . Again with ANY Chinabike, less with some than with others, its a bit of a roll of the dice. Of course the same would apply to any (very) used Japanese bike that was so old/worn as to sell for ony $1,000-$1,500 also.

[MICRider]

For what it's worth as well, the Q Link bikes are some of the better built chinabikes. The bikes are built on the same assembly line as the Suzuki DR200 and other small displacement Suzuki bikes. Granted I think these are Suzuki's for the Asian markets, but I do believe they are built to the same quality standards as the regular export Suzuki's. My Konker (same as a Q) started, ran, and rode beautifully. Other than some issues with nickel plating that started corroding the bike was very much to Japanese standards, except for about 1/3 the price. As far as the engines going on a couple of the Q's, I think those are the exception rather than the norm. I think if you keep them off the redline they will last a long time :D

[FastDoc]

Very true point. Something else to consider is Even Japanese bikes break, although I'd have to say less than even the best CB's.

Out of the CB's I'd have to say the 200cc Q's and the 200cc Zongs are the best in terms of quality and reliability.

[SpudRider]

Very true point. Something else to consider is Even Japanese bikes break, although I'd have to say less than even the best CB's.

Out of the CB's I'd have to say the 200cc Q's and the 200cc Zongs are the best in terms of quality and reliability.
My Zong's engine is still running strong at 40,000 miles. :) I have had better luck with my Zongshen engine than many Yamaha owner's have had with their TW200 engines. ;)

Spud :)

[2LZ]

For what it's worth, my Q rocks. I'll have to check with my CB Guy but I'm pretty sure I got the entire warranty.

It's BY FAR as good or better and as well built of a bike, than most of the Japanese bikes I've had years past....but it's been about 20+ years since I've had one.

Most of my Japanese bikes leaked. None of my CB's have. My Japanese bikes have mostly all broken, at one time or another....none of my CB's have "yet".....though I don't ride near as aggressively as I used to, nor put on the miles as I once did.

I've heard of a couple of these units breaking when new....but the one I have personal knowledge of was OBVIOUSLY badly abused, brand new.
Q Link makes no bones about the detailed break-in period. It's actually in two places in the manual.

I'm just guessing but I'm sure the Big 4 have also had their share of 'new failures'. It just happens sometimes.....especially in mass production.

So far, I've been very happy (and extremely surprised) with the bike and all my other CB's, for that matter.
I guess when expectations are so low, it's tough to be let down. 8)

[weiser23]

Well why they're cheap is explained, and in the end you still have a cheap bike. I wouldn't worry about a noisy motor unless the noises are coming from the bottom end. You can check by getting a hard-handled screwdriver and putting the tip to various places on the motor while it's running and listening to the handle like a stethoscope...or you could use a stethoscope.

If you're getting a rhythmic ticking from the top it's fine...just valves. You don't really need to worry about clearances until you can't hear them ticking (too tight). In the unlikely chance you have a OHC engine you might also be able to hear some chain lash, but it should be minimal.

The bottom end should be a whir of noise, but no impact sounds...no ticks or knocks or anything.

I would check valve clearances and keep them set...outside of them, change the oil and keep the bolts tight. You can't do much else. No need to worry about them too much...you can replace the motors for less than $400. Rebuilding one of the push rod engines is very simple, too, and the parts are well under the $200 mark.

i tryed the the screwdriver idea and cant find where the noise is coming from, when not using the screwdrive depending where you stand it comming from the bottom other times its comming from the top, since I just had it in for sevice I wound think if it was a bad they would tell me

[makenzie71]

Put up a video...we might be able to glean something from that. But if you can't find the noise with the screwdriver/steth then don't worry about it. If you're having bearing issues in the bottom end it'll sound like someone's beating the screwdriver tip with a hammer.