General tips needed

[Influencer88]

So I bought a 2005 Roketa DB-27a the other day, top end already removed.

I'm going to buy a full gasket set, piston rings, and valve assemblies. Is there anything else I need to look for while its disassembled?

The only reason I'm buying the valve assemblies is when I got it, one of the valve springs were missing. I can't find anywhere to buy just the springs, so I'm just buying the whole set.

Everything else looks really good, the bore looks good(haven't had a chance to measure it yet), still can clearly see the cross-hatch on it. Piston looks good, timing chain looks good, as does cam. Of course, I'll check measurements to know for sure.

Other than that, the body looks good, suspension is good. Haven't checked to make sure but I believe the previous owner removed the switch for the electric start, which doesn't really bother me.

Any good resources for these bikes? Good places here in the states to buy parts?

EDIT: What bikes are parts interchangable for this one? I've heard XR200R's are the same?

[Weldangrind]

The XR200R is similar, but not the same. The bore and stroke is different, as is the top end. Clutches, gears etc are probably all the same.

Not sure where to buy parts like valve springs in the States, so hopefully someone else will chime in.

[Influencer88]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I don't mind kicking, I can remove the starter, and battery completely can't I? The bike has no lights

[Weldangrind]

That's a very timely question; I just posted something similar today:

Stumbled upon some more info. According to DrAtv, engines with a DC CDI must have a battery to generate spark, whereas the AC version can run without a battery. http://www.dratv.com/distty.html


If you have an AC version (if you can start it without a battery, that is a good indicator), then yes, you can run without the starter also. You'd need to figure out how to plug the starter hole.

I have a '96 XR250R, and I really wish it had electric start.

[Influencer88]

Thanks for the info, I guess I'll leave it on. No point in ripping things out that may make the bike not work when I'm not sure it will work in the first place, lol.

I have a shop manual from a XR 200 I found online, looking through their crude pictures, it looks exactly like the Roketa.

Any idea where I can find some specs on the roketa engine so I can check clearances and such? I know the bore * stroke is different, mainly using the manual to make sure of the parts/position of parts.

Its a completely different beast putting this thing together when I didn't take it apart!

[Weldangrind]

If your Roketa is OHC, then the top end will be the same as an XR200R; I was thinking of the OHV pushrod version. The bottom end on the left side will be different because of the starter.

If you provide us with the number that is stamped on the engine, we can try to decode it, although they're not always 100% accurate. Look for something like 63fml.

[katoranger]

I think I remember someone uses xr valve springs. Where are the pictures.

Just use photobucket.com to upload them.

[Influencer88]

Ill get some pictures up tonight or tomorrow. Tonight if I can find one of my digital cameras, tomorrow if I have to use my phone( no flash).

I'd just about swear xr springs will work. Other than the bore ad stroke the manual seems identical to the roketa. Ill also get the engine number in a bit.

I'm excited to get this thing running. Last bike I had was a 80s model Suzuki dr100 I pulled out from under scrap at a friends barn. He said it had been sitting in the weeds for 10+ years and I could have it for free. A little tinkering and got it running. I think after it was all done I had $15 plus gas in it. Ran it hard till it died. Clutch would stick if you used it so had to just rev it up and drop it in gear and hardshift it. Of course sprockets were almost smooth, had a bad oil leak. But ran like a champ until my friend borrowed it and didn't put oil in it. Siezed the motor good, lol.

This bike I plan on making nice and keeping it that way! But hell, the gas tank on the Dr was just a 5 gallon gas tank strapped to the frame and a petcock tapped into it. Couldn't take that thing to serious!

EDIT: Alright, pictures are up, took pictures of everything as it sits right now.

See them here: https://picasaweb.google.com/104214613533615630005/Dirtbike?authkey=Gv1sRgCIjE39v3_NC6Xg&feat=directlink:

Couldn't find a number stamped on the engine anywhere. How long is the number and where is it located?

[katoranger]

Looks like like an OHC motor to me. I believe that xr springs and parts will work.

[Influencer88]

The smaller valve is the intake, correct?

Seems I'm missing the wrist pin too. Looks like it would be easier to get a top end rebuild kit.

Anyone have ideas where to find one for this motor? I'd hate to get one for a xr seeing as I wouldn't be able to use the piston or rings.

[Influencer88]

Another question, I know these bikes aren't built that well. I"m going to replace bolts all over the place, loctite everything, and gorilla glue it for good measure.

What can I do to make it more withstanding? Beef up any welds? Add any braces? I don't go jump triples or anything. Just fields and woods for me. I think the worst "jump" I have where I ride the most is where the field slopes down at the top of the hill, usually get air for about 5-10 feet and drop maybe 2-3 feet. Nothing hard at all.

Occassionally I go to a friends track where there are slightly more harsh jumps, but still nothing worse than a 5' single that if hit right you'll land on a 5 foot decline on the other side, with no more than 2-3 feet of air.

I'd be more than happy to stay away from my friends house with this bike if it just won't handle it.

[Weldangrind]

It looks like there is a smooth section under the shifter that might contain the engine number. If you can measure the wristpin hole diameter, I'll see if I have a spare that matches. Measure your remaining spring as well; give me the free height, ID and OD and I'll see about a match for that as well. What is the true diameter of the piston?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YhzTtVApWeg/TfF8Ehf0V5I/AAAAAAAAACo/OHDkCaiG430/s640/DSCF4838.JPG

[katoranger]

Stay away from the track.

[Influencer88]

Alright, here we go.

The wrist pin is there so no worries. Although it is missing a circlip! Why couldn't the guy keep all the little pieces, lol.

Tell me if these measurements sound way off, without my tools here(conveniently, my friend is on vacation, and my stuff is locked in his building!), I'm having to make due with what IS here.

Spring Height: 1.734", OR 44.04mm
OD:1", 25.4mm
ID:.734", 18.64mm

Piston actual diameter:2.671", 67.84mm
Cylinder Diameter: 2.703", 68.66mm (it is in complete round)

[Weldangrind]

Ok, I dismantled an old XR200R head, and my measurements are pretty close to yours.

Mine is 45mm vs your 44.04
Mine has an OD of 26.6mm, vs your 25.4
mine has an ID of 18.8mm, vs your 18.64.

There is also an inner spring, and it is 39mm long with an OD of 17.65mm and an ID of 12.3mm. There is also a steel shim under each spring to prevent galling at the spring seat.

My spare piston is a 66.5mm. Too small for you.

It looks like an XR spring would do the trick. I can also spare a circlip. Do you want me to send this stuff to you? If so, send me a PM with your address. BTW, the small valve is the exhaust.

[Influencer88]

You are a godsend. I was having trouble justifying buying all new valves just for the springs. The springs on it look almost new. Going to check the piston rings tomorrow, the guy I bought them from said he thought that was the problem but while cleaning te engine up today I found some bad connections in the harness that goes to the cdi
I think that just may be the culprit.

Also noticed its missing the front brake line from the handle. Time to hunt that down!

[Weldangrind]

Aww, shucks. :D

Regarding the bolts for the head, those will be very specific and not likely easily found at a hardware store. Try to estimate the length of the bolts you need, and I'll compare that with my bolts. Migfht as well ship it all at once.

What do you mean by front brake line? Do you mean the hose?

[Influencer88]

The brake hose that comes out of the master cylinder on the handle bars.

The bolts are all of these on the website.

http://www.roketapartsdept.com/catalog/DB_27A_ENGINE_WIRING_AND_EXHAUST_PARTS-415-1.html

I'm pretty sure I have them, especially all of the ones from the engine. Its the frame mounts that I'm not positive on.

[Weldangrind]

Ok, that won't be too hard to find locally. Perhaps you could even drill out the mounts and use grade 5 SAE bolts.

The best bet would be to buy a complete front brake assembly; it'll be cheap on eBay.

[Influencer88]

Yeah. I'm going to look around. Until then, I rarely use the front brake anyway :twisted:

[katoranger]

I just sent a front brake line off yesterday along with the caliper. I will send him a message and if he doesn't need it maybe he can send it to you.

Allen

[Influencer88]

I think I just might have found the most helpful community around!

That would be quite kind of you, and possibly the second person as well. I knew picking up a 6 year old china bike would be interesting to get parts, but you all are downright spoiling me!

[katoranger]

He will let me know if he doesn't need the line.

[MICRider]

Just out of curiosity, why did the original owner tear it down? Was it burning oil or just not starting?

[Influencer88]

Not sure. Guy I bought it from got it as a project. He sold it because he had quite a few projects going.

That's why as I'm putting it together I'm making sure everything is in good working order. If I know its mechanically sound ill know to dig into the wiring and electrical.

[Influencer88]

Checked the piston rings tonight, can't fit the smallest feeler between the ring and bottom edge. Rings still turn easily around the piston though.

As for the opening, it is at the upper end of the spectrum, .406 and .457 for the top and middle rings, didn't check the oil rings but they are right in line with the previous.

Does this seem alright, or better get new rings?

[Weldangrind]

When you say the opening, do you mean the ring gap? Are you measuring it with the ring in the bore and not mounted on the piston?

[Influencer88]

Yes ring gap and yes in the bore without the piston

[Weldangrind]

According to my Clymer Honda manual that covers '84 and '85 XR200R models, the ring end gap on the top and second rings should be between 0.10 and 0.30mm. The oil ring spec is 0.2-0.7. Yeah, I'd get new rings.

BTW, the side clearance is listed as 0.015-0.045mm for the top and second ring.

When I rebuilt an XR200R recently, I used a master cylinder hone for the bore. I think I bought a Lisle (vs the generic Chinese model) because the stones are replaceable. I also found a small piston ring compressor for cheap. I hate breaking rings.

[Influencer88]

New rings are ordered. I have a hone and ring compressor to use so no worries there.

I wish I knew what the problem was but since I don't on checking everything. Except the bottom end which Im not going to tear into until I get the top end rebuilt. Atleast then if its not operational I can diagnose the problem.

[Weldangrind]

My theory is that it wouldn't run because of something simple, and the engine was dismantled. A little troubleshooting might have saved a lot of time for the previous owner.

It is to your benefit, because you have the skills to rebuild it, and you scored it cheap. :D

[Weldangrind]

I'm struggling to get the large spring shim out of the spring pocket. :lol: There is very little room, and the oil film is acting like adhesive. I'll figure that out today and mail it off to you.

BTW, now is an excellent time to install new valve stem seals. You'd hate to find that it burns blue after all of this work. I'd buy OTC Honda stuff.

[Influencer88]

Yeah sounds smart. Ill have to do that. Will buy them tomorrow

[Weldangrind]

I mailed the parts to you today; I expect that they should arrive in a little over a week.

[Influencer88]

Did you mail them from us or Canada?

[Weldangrind]

Canada. They assured me that packages are unaffected by the postal strike, and it saved me some time.

[Influencer88]

EDIT: Glad you could save some time, :). I see you aren't far from the border but I've never been out of the US so I have no idea how bad crossing the border can be, but imagine its not something you want to frequent doing, lol.

While waiting for parts to come in, decided to paint the plastics, I know it probably won't last great, but then again, I don't plan on thrashing it too bad either, so you never know.

Here's some pics of the progress:
BEFORE:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OWdYmbAUkSA/TfF7taOwb8I/AAAAAAAAAE0/WgxpCnTRDz8/s640/DSCF4833.JPG

AFTER:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-II8MNdYG2BA/TfbyUkor72I/AAAAAAAAAEU/urNTCJChK_w/s512/DSCF4865.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0G0xnDWTB_Q/TfbyUm3T1AI/AAAAAAAAAEY/1NXHpmcb1yc/s576/DSCF4864.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5hElCTrmLro/TfbyUhyUu9I/AAAAAAAAAEg/-Gtqjd28BOQ/DSCF4866.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uvqD09e4_mc/TfbydrcPjiI/AAAAAAAAAEw/HKp3uC7750E/s512/DSCF4867.JPG

The color appears lighter in the pictures than it really is, but not by too much.

I still have touching up to do on the stripes, thinking about outlining them in black pinstriping. Then the rear side pieces and the fork covers. Side pieces will probably incorporate more yellow and the fork covers will probably be solid as I expect they will get pretty f*$ked up. One is cracked all to hell so I'm gonna try and epoxy it for a cheap repair.

[Weldangrind]

I recommend that you get that plastic off of the light fixture, before Mrs. Influencer88 sees that! :lol:

What kind of paint did you use?

[Influencer88]

Didn't have anything to hold them up with, and didn't want to picture my hand that is currently blue, lol.

Painted them with the Krylon Fusion. I'm very pleased with the paint, I've read where others say it doesn't stick for shit, but it does have a very long curing time(7 days) so if they try to scratch test before them, results probably will be poor.

After a day in 98F weather, they have cured pretty good, wouldn't ride through trails with them, but they are solid.

I cleaned the plastics with degreaser, scuffed them up with 800 grit, shot a ghost coat, waited about 15 minutes, applied another coat, 15 minutes, another coat, 1 hour, another coat, 2 hours, wet sanded, dried, shot another coat.

Tomorrow I'm going to wet sand again up to 2000 grit, then let it sit for the remainder of the curing time, then give it a few coats of clear, wet sanding in between, then polish.

Plastics are very smooth now too, :).

[Weldangrind]

Spud raves about Fusion. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm gonna.

I appreciate the effort it takes to wet sand up to 2000 grit. Nice work.

[Influencer88]

There's no point in doing it unless your gonna do it right. While I do know its a dirt bike and will see fields and trails and most likely get scratched all to hell, if I'm gonna paint it, might as well paint it good, make it look as good as possible, and take some pictures!

Plus, once the motor is rebuilt, new chain is on, and the plastics are back on, it will be just like a brand new dirt bike, for a fraction of the cost, :p

EDIT: Any idea what size chain I need?

[Weldangrind]

My guess is 428. I use 428H (for heavy duty), and I've found the RK non o-ring type to be an excellent value. I usually get them for around $30.00.

I use Maxima Chain Wax on chains and cables (via a cable luber).

[Influencer88]

Picked up the chain today as well as the stem seals. Should have ordered the seals online.

Honda sells them for around $4 a piece. The dealer I went through sold them for $8 a piece.

When your package arrives ill be ready for assembly!

[Weldangrind]

Here's hoping that the Canadian (and US) postal service doesn't let us down. If they do, I'm sure I can scrounge up more stuff.

What kind of chain did you get?

[Influencer88]

I trust the usps. They have never let me down. The people I have sent stuff to have ( trade that I had a bad gut feeling about but ignored). No experience in Canadian postal service but it would seem as if it'd be in the us by now. You aren't far from the border :).

[Weldangrind]

I've never had anything go missing with Canada Post. I hope they get a decent settlement soon, because the Canadian gov't is about to legislate them back to work.

[Influencer88]

The painting has slowed to a halt. Been way too humid to paint. Thankfully the paint has pretty much cured. A few days at nearly 100F will bake them pretty good.

[Weldangrind]

Is that a PZ27 or a PZ30 in there?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-v-2XdUvhBGA/TfF7d9d54PI/AAAAAAAAACI/OHoms76vHnY/s640/DSCF4844.JPG

[Influencer88]

It is a PD11 actually.

[Weldangrind]

I'm guessing that's a 27mm carb, but I don't know. In any case, a 30mm Mikuni is cheap and easily found on eBay. They're excellent carbs for these applications.

Conversely, you could try re-jetting the stock carb. Keihin copy is my guess. They're notoriously lean from the factory.

[Influencer88]

I'll have to look into that. Not sure about the carb, will measure it in a little bit to find out. Probably won't change it out until the bike is running and I can monitor if its running lean/rich

EDIT: the Carb measures 25 MM at the prong(flange) side at the opening, 24mm at the smallest diameter closest to the slide.

[Weldangrind]

That's pretty tiny. Here's a $30.00 example with free shipping: 30mm Mikuni (http://cgi.ebay.ca/Carburetor-Dirt-Bike-ATV-Quad-Honda-MIKUNI-Carb-30mm-/330575018185?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf7ce78c9)

I'm with you on not buying a new carb until it runs. If you get it running ok with the stock carb, you'll be able to quantify a Mikuni upgrade.

[Influencer88]

I'm very confident it'll run. Everything checks out for it so it should. I seem yo remember the Guy saying it ran in one of the emails so I'm not sure why it was disassembled.

But I can say with some confidence that the motor will be like new once its rebuilt.

[Influencer88]

I'm at a stand still. Plastics are painted and back on. Will post pics later.

No parts have arrived, darn snail mail + customs. But on the plus side, it wouldn't matter if they did get here as I forgot to order the gasket set so I couldn't move to assembly anyway! Ordered gaskets last night, they should ship tomorrow.

Scored the new spark plug boot for free, local autoparts store doesn't sell them but did have a couple in a miscellaneous box in the backroom. Free of charge. Once I get everything I'm only in $50 on the bike, if it runs a good investment in my book.

On the downside, no chance that I can see of converting this to dual sport, NC doesn't seem to title off-road vehicles even if they comply to the laws.

But will still save me gas as the majority of the trips I make are all in the country to take care of my dogs and carpool to work( both mean going to a friends house that is roughly 4 miles away, with plenty of trails and only having to cross 2 roads.)

[Weldangrind]

I hope the parts get there soon. I think that the package made it across the border before Canada Post stopped altogether.

[Influencer88]

I hope so too! It should be here in the next couple days

[katoranger]

I have two titled frames here in GA. Let me know if you want one.

[Influencer88]

Not sure how I would get the frame but that would be cool. Ill wit though to make sure everything goes smoothly.

Also not sure if the parts sent by weld will be here soon. All depends on if they made it across the border before the 18th. I'd think they would since they were mailed on the 14th but who knows.

On another note, anyone have any experience with motopartsmax.com aka ride max inc aka powersportsmax.com aka dealc inc? Ordered the gasket set through them and its been processing for a couple days now.

[Weldangrind]

I'm kicking myself over that. I should have carried it across the border and mailed it to you from your side.

[Influencer88]

No need! You were/are doing me a big favor by sending it and not asking anything in return. It will get here, just depends on how dickish the unions are going to continue to be on how long it will take to get here, :).

Since I know that the parts came from a xr200r, I'm gonna look around and see if I can find any junkyards that may have one I can salvage a couple parts off of. Worse comes to worse, in a week my friend comes back from vacation, he works at the local Honda Dealership as a mechanic on the bikes, I've already talked to him and he's gonna see what he can scrounge up there as well.

[Influencer88]

Well good news. My gasket kit arrived today. +1 for motopartsmax.

In other news, a bill was passed to force postal workers back to work, it goes to senate now. If all goes well there maybe mail will start moving soon!

[Weldangrind]

I think you're following the Canadian postal situation more closely than I am. I sure hope your package arrives soon.

[Influencer88]

I very well might be. What can I say, its so close to being done. Tomorrow I'm going to try and find a circlip so I can getthe rebuild started.

That way, when the package does arrive all ill have left is the valve spring and timing set.

[Influencer88]

Alright, well it failed trying to find a circlip. I keep forgetting how dead it is around here on sundays.

So instead I looked over the ignition system. Checked the CDI, it is a AC fired system so I don't actually NEED to fix the ignition system or put a battery in, kick start will do fine. That being said, I want to fix it so I don't have to kick start all the time, call it lazy, I call it taking full advantage of technology. :D

So in order to fix this, I need some additional knowledge from the chinariders experts.

First off, does the starter switch carry any real amperage, or does it just act as remote switch for the starter relay? IE, carries very little power at all, the switch is normally open and when pressed completes the circuit sending the small power signal to the starter relay, which then completes the ignition circuit to the starter motor?

Second, the green plug with two male leads in it(coming off the engine), what does it plug into, I don't seem to see anywhere on the wiring harness that it is for.

Will disabling the neutral safety switch hurt the bikes performance in any way? I know some it will mess up the CDI mapping.

Here is a short list of whats left before the bike is ready to go:

Starter relay switch
Valve Springs( On the way)
Circlip (On the way)
Starter switch
Brake Line(can live without for a while)
Spark Plug Boot(amazingly hard to find for some reason)

[Weldangrind]

I got mail delievered yesterday, so your shipment should be moving soon.

[Influencer88]

That's good news!

Other good news: I got the ignition/starting system operational. Got a selanoid off a old lawnmower and wired it up. Also picked up a push button for a starter switch. Mounted it on the plastics near the tank. Wired everything up and hooked it to a battery charger, everything works great. All the safety features are intact as well.

So all that's left is what's in the package and figuring out where the battery goes and how I can mount it.

EDIT: Well the piston rings won't work because apparently the stock piston for the db-27a is a 63.5mm, oops on my part. it looks as if maybe the top end was swapped out for a xr200r's. Now I get to order another set!

[Weldangrind]

You'd know if it was genuine Honda stuff, because the Honda piston is a very nicely machined piece. It'll also say HM somewhere on it, likely on the underside.

When I last rebuilt an XR200R, I got lucky enough to find a Wiseco piston and rings on CL for $40.00. It's a little boost in compression over the stocker. :D

[Influencer88]

There's no telling with this thing. The Carb is smaller than what comes on the db27a. The piston is larger. I'm thinking its a Frankenstein.

[Influencer88]

The parts came today. Amazing how fast things move when the post office is working! I didn't expect them to make it that fast, I figured they would get here at the beginning of the week when my other stuff shows up. Not complaining though. Now to find a babysitter so I can get this thing together.

Once its running I will probably get a mikuni Carb, seen alot of good reviews.

[Weldangrind]

Glad to hear that the parts finally arrived! :D

You won't regret a 30mm Mikuni.

[Influencer88]

Just doing a little final prep now. Then hopefully ill be able to dig in

EDIT: The circlip was too small, trying to track one down at a local shop. Hopefully I'll find one, :p

EDIT 2: Found a circlip, my buddy at the honda shop came through! A whopping 82 cents apiece! Now fighting to get everything together. With the tensioner all the way out it seems like the cam chain is still too small...any tricks?

[Influencer88]

Ok, so ran into pretty much nothing but problems today.

Got the circlip through a buddy of mine, its a 16mm circlip, not a 15 like what is found in the xr200r. Guess I could have measured the one I had to find that out, but I guess you live and learn.

Got everything ready to assemble, did a dry fit, the cam chain wasn't long enough to even begin to go around the sprocket. WTF?! So I take it apart, and look into it, the chain was caught on a guide that the tensioners go into, so that was a easy fix.

Started to put the gaskets on, noticed it was a tight fit, then started actually paying attention and noticed the opening in the gasket for the cylinder was wayyyy too small. Wrong gasket set! Its the one I ordered, so why isn't it fitting? The Roketa 200cc calls for a 63.5 mm piston, mine is a 66.5, hmm, guess I should have paid attention to that instead of blindly ordering the part that is suppose to fit this bike.

Now I can't figure this thing out, the engine number located on the frame says its a 66.5mm piston, the engine number on the engine itself says its a 63.5. So the top end seems to be the one for this frame, the bottom end doesn't. But the top end also says its a 200cc, everything I can find on the DB-27a calls for a 63.5 piston. I don't know WHAT happened there, but oh well. Worse comes to worse, I should have more power than what I thought.

So to fix the gasket issue, rather than order a new set(the company I went through doesn't accept returns unless they sent the wrong part, I ordered what they sent, so thats on me, *pisses on a $20 bill*)

I went to the local auto parts store and bought a roll of gasket material, and set out to make my own gaskets. 2 hours later, two not so pretty but functional gaskets are born. Note to everyone, if your going to be doing precision cutting on felt gasket material, use a GOOD Hobby knife set, not a cheap one picked up for $3 because you only need it for one thing.

After much frustration, I now have everything prepared, including some High Temp RTV gasket maker to insure a good seal, as well as for the valve cover.

In between all this I took the carb apart to make sure everything was clean, it now looks like its out of the box new, went ahead and set the clip to the very last notch in anticipation of it running lean.

Unfortunately, I'm most likely out of time today to do anything to it. So its prepared to be assembled, but I probably won't get to it until Sunday. I MIGHT be able to get out there later tonight once the little ones go to sleep, but its doubtful. :(

On another note, found the spark plug boot I've been looking for, so atleast everything on the bike is ready to accept the engine and (hopefully) ride off into the sunset.

All in all, helluva day!

[Weldangrind]

Bummer on several counts.

I'm interested to learn how well the custom gaskets work. I've always gravitated towards OEM style head gaskets, because it's such a pain to pull everything apart again.

[Influencer88]

They should work as good. Same thickness and material. And I can make it cover more of the head so it should seal better. But as a safeguard I used gasket dressing too.

EDIT: everything is put together. Missing a couple bolts but they aren't viral. One from the crankshaft bolt cover ( there are suppose to be 4) and one of the secondary valve coverbolts. Will pick up replacements tomorrow. Won't be chrome headed but will work.

Compression seems to be alright, from me turning the kickstart over by hand and having my thumb over the sparkplug opening. Still need to install the starter and get the engine mounted. Hopefully will face some time tomorrow.

EDIT 2: Thinking maybe it was just because I was holding the motor upright, holding my thumb over the spark plug opening, and trying to turn it over....

Got everything together, installed in frame. Getting Spark, getting gas, getting nothing else, :( .

Going to do a compression test tomorrow after I adjust the valves. Didn't even think to adjust them before, DOH! Thats what I get for assembling a motor at 1:00 am after a long day of work. That and I've been out of the wrenching game for too long, missing little things that I know better than to miss.

[Influencer88]

She RUNS!!!!!

Had to remove the engine again, the valve retainers weren't seating good so I wasn't getting enough compression. Took care of that, adjusted the valves(before I put the engine in this time) and then put the engine back in. Went to kick start it(starter isn't working up to par, but thats an issue with me trying to start it off of a battery charger, not enough juice!), kick start lever just spun around, looked at it, no bolt...hmm... slid it off, there was a bolt, or atleast half of one.

Drilled the bolt out, tapped it, put a new bolt in, went to start it again, no go, forgot to turn the gas on, :p. Turned gas on, checked everything else, all systems go, pushed kick start halfway down until I felt resistance, let it up, gave it a good hefty kick, and she fired right up.

Doesn't idle worth a damn, but no air box and no exhaust will do that. But a gentle rev and she revved up good.

On the agenda now:

Fix throttle, doesn't want to come back after giving it throttle, spring feels fine, I think its just a sticky carb.

Build battery box, install battery and connect.

Figure out how the hell the clutch lever is suppose to connect to the clutch

Install Exhaust and Intake

Cut chain and install

Build a front sprocket cover, will most likely be a completely ugly piece of sheet metal bent to clear sprocket.

Ride into the sunset!

[Influencer88]

Ok, a couple questions.

One, should I start a new thread for other problems? Or since its encompassed in the general rebuild that's been discussed here, keep it in this thread?

Secondly, It did run. Put the exhaust on, and intake, and started it back up. Ran for about 30 seconds, I pushed on the exhaust a little because it sounded like it had a leak, and BOOM! A piece of the head gasket blew out of the side of the motor and hit my hand(OUCH!).

So I guess my question is, would the exhaust leak have caused this(or the subsequent plugging of the leak by me pressing on the exhaust), improper torquing of the the engine bolts, or just a shitty gasket(home made)? Gaskets were sealed with RTV Red.

And since it blew, what do I need to look for on my (yet again) rebuild? And losing the head gasket would destroy all compression, correct? I moved the kick start up and down a couple times by hand and had little to no resistance from compression. I hope I didn't bust anything!

[Weldangrind]

I'd call it a combo of a homemade gasket and RTV. It would be best to use a dry factory-type gasket.

I think it's fine to leave your questions here, although you may want to rename your thread to project bike, or something similar.

[Influencer88]

Alright, I'll rename the topic then.

Could you do me a favor and measure the distances between holes on the top end gaskets?

If you can, see if they measure up to one of these two, I'm suspecting it will be the gaskets for the 250
200cc Gaskets:
http://www.motopartsmax.com/index.php/main_page/product_info/products_id/636/tID/2/cPath/21_122
250cc Gaskets:
http://www.motopartsmax.com/index.php/main_page/product_info/products_id/637/tID/2/cPath/21_122

I talked to a friend of mine, he said that the gasket should be metal with the paper/felt covering it, thats why mine blew out, once again, something I didn't even think about, :/

[Weldangrind]

Sorry, it took me a couple of days to find the time. This is a view of the top side of the gasket.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/XR200R66mm.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/?action=view&current=XR200R66mm.jpg)

[Influencer88]

Got the new headgasket in. Its not an exact fit but I was able to modify it to work. Now there is a oil leak. Gonna track it down tomorrow. I believe its from where I started it without the starter in. But where the oil was I don't know how it would get there.

I suppose this bikes a definite learning experience.

[Influencer88]

Well I screwed the pooch today. Had the motor disassembled to fix the leak. Went to put it back and the camshaft shifted as I was putting the cover on. Didn't realize it until I tightened the cover down and heard a pop. Snapped the camshaft bearing in two.

Anyone know Where I could locate one?

[Weldangrind]

I have a pretty good idea where... :lol:

Can you give me a measurement?

[katoranger]

I think a donar may be waiting in a box in Sumas, WA.