Valve Adjustment Tutorial

[red2003]

Several members have asked for a tutorial on adjusting the valves on these 163fml type motors, so here goes.

OK, first and foremost it is critical that the engine be completely COLD for setting the valve clearance. Not just "a couple hours since running cold", but like "sat OVERNIGHT" cold. You'll need to strip the bike down to the motor, so the side panels, seat and gas tank need to come off. The Roketa motor is OHC, so locate the valve covers (caps) as seen highlighted in this pic:

http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4668&g2_serialNumber=2


Remove the valve caps with a 24mm wrench. NOTE: On the pushrod style motors, there are no valve caps, so the entire valve cover needs to be removed. Several members have reported that this will require dropping the motor down to get the cover off on some model bikes. Under the caps, or cover, the rocker arm assembly looks like this:

http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4671&g2_serialNumber=2


Next, you'll need to locate the timing cover which is located on the left side engine cover. Different bikes will have this cap either on top of the engine cover or on the side, but it will look something like this:

http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4674&g2_serialNumber=2


Remove this cap to uncover the flywheel. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position!! You will use the kickstarter to rotate the engine until a "T" mark appears and lines up with the mark on the engine case. There will more then likely be several marks and lines on the flywheel, make sure you find the "T". The "T" stands for top dead center which is the point in the engines rotation where the piston is at it's highest point in the cylinder. NOTE, the engine is at top dead center TWICE during the 4 strokes of revolution; once on the exhaust stroke and once on the compression stroke. You need to be on the COMPRESSION stroke to set the valves, so you need to determine which stroke you are locating top dead center for. The easiest way to do this is to remove the sparkplug and stick your finger in the plug hole to plug it off. Rotate the engine on the kickstarter until your finger is forced out by the compression, you are now on the compression stroke, look for the "T" and you're ready to adjust the valves. It isn't very far around the flywheel so go REAL easy on the kickstarter. Dropping the kickstarter about an inch moves the flywheel half way around, so you gotta be careful. Think ittsy bittsy taps. If you accidently go past the "T", you'll have to go back around TWICE and you'll be back on the compression stroke again. If you have found the right "T", you should be able to wiggle both the rocker arms ever so slightly. If they are fully tight, you are on the wrong stroke. The"T" mark will look like this:

http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=4677&g2_serialNumber=2


Now, using a feeler guage of .05 mm, we'll adjust the intake valve (the one next to the carb.) To do this you'll need a 10 mm wrench. Loosen the jam nut on the valve stud (the stud on the rocker arm assembly from the above pic). Back the stud out enough to slide the feeler guage between the stud bottom (underneith the stud you just loosened the nut on) and the valve tip. Now turn the stud down BY HAND until it just bottoms on the feeler guage and holds it sandwiched between the stud and valve tip. Snug down the jam nut and if you did it correctly the feeler guage should slide out with a little resistance. If it falls right out easily, you have the valve too loose, if you can't smoothly pull it out, it is too tight. I have been adjusting valves for many, many years and it took me 4 shots on the intake valve to get it just right, so don't get frustrated if you don't get it on the first try. You more then likely wont. Once you feel like you have it, tighten down the jam nut fully. I'm sure the nut has a torque spec, but there is realistically no way to get a torque wrench in there so just get it good and tight, but don't kill it. Now repeat this process for the exhaust valve except with a .08 mm feeler guage. Congratulations, you are done. Re-assemble the bike and forget about it for 1000 miles!!!

[Jim]

Thanks Red

[red2003]

Thanks Red

You are very welcome. :D

[molypod]

Excellent Post..
Very detailed and good pics!
Makes me want to do mine just cause.

[FMYStreetRacer]

where did you get the specs from?

wonder what the max and min are? i know on my Honda civic my intake and exhaust i go .002 under what the book says. it kinda acts like a cam and gives more lift and duration. i wonder if the valve springs in these motors could take it?

[jkomp316]

Wow, thats got to be the easiest valve adjustment I've ever seen. I didn't even realize thats what those bolts were for. I'm still waiting for my china bike...

[fatboy250]

Red you da man!! Nice, clear, concise directions.

Jason

[red2003]

where did you get the specs from?

wonder what the max and min are? i know on my Honda civic my intake and exhaust i go .002 under what the book says. it kinda acts like a cam and gives more lift and duration. i wonder if the valve springs in these motors could take it?

The specs are directly from my Roketa manual that came with the bike. No max or min, valve lash IS what it is. Running the valve clearance tighter then spec is a bad idea. It is set to factory specs for a reason. If you set it too tight, the valves will be held open when the motor heats up and you will LOSE performance. Setting the clearance tighter might get you a little more valve lift safely, but it would have nothing to do with the duration. Cam lift duration is a function of the cam lobe profile, and that can only be changed with a different camshaft.

[IronFist]

Red you da man!! Nice, clear, concise directions.

Jason

I was going to write this exactly! Thanks Red, great pics. N2r.

[red2003]

No problem guys. FROSTBITE, maybe you could make this a sticky? I'm afraid it's gonna get burried quickly. I've been able to put some miles on the bike since I adjusted the valves. It definately runs smoother, especially at higher revs. It sounds like the valvetrain is actually a little LOUDER now. I think they might have been set tight from the factory and leaking by a little, which would make sense if they assume they will "wear in" to spec. I highly suggest if you feel confident in your mechanical skills, you adjust the valves after engine break-in. I did mine at 500 miles, I will again at 1000, then once a year after that.

[fatboy250]

I was going to adjust mine a month ago and got all the stuff off and out of the way, but found it difficult to get a feeler guage in there from the intake side. How were you able to do it??

[red2003]

I was going to adjust mine a month ago and got all the stuff off and out of the way, but found it difficult to get a feeler guage in there from the intake side. How were you able to do it??

Yup, it is a tremendous PITA to get it in there with the frame in the way. I bent the feeler guage into a 90 about 1/2 in from the end so the guage would slide down and under the rocker stud. Be careful, if you bend it a little too far, you'll snap it off :( . I had to loosen the jam nut, back the stud out until I could wiggle the guage in between then run the stud down by hand (well by fingers, which is also a PITA) until the guage is "stuck in between" Once you tighten the jam nut, you either got it and you can pull the guage out with slight resistance OR , if not, then you gotta start the process all over again. Like I said it took several tries on the intake valve to get it right. I got the exhaust valve first try. So, you have like 7000 miles and haven't adjusted the valves yet? Man, that is amazing! These engines are pretty incredible.

[fatboy250]

Yes, 7100 now. I have a little valve and/or cam chain chatter when it's cold. If I keep the revs low, they go away by the time the engine is warm. However, I still need to figure out the cam chain adjustment. After 1000miles, I should have adjusted the tensioner. Any idea how this can be done with the starter still in? Or for that matter if there is a "standard" procedure for this adjustment?

[red2003]

It was my understanding that these motors have a NON-adjustable cam chain tensioner. They are made just like the 83 XR200R motor though, so maybe OB1 or someone else with Honda knowledge can tell us or look it up in a book somewhere.

[red2003]

Anyone else tried it yet???

[katoranger]

I think I am going to try it on my pushrod motor on Wednesday. I will take some pictures to add to this sticky. I is going to involve dropping the motor out and I also plan to do the engine bolt upgrade at the same time plus check things over good while the bike is apart.

Allen

[katoranger]

Is .05 mm (slightly under .002") correct for the pushrod engine for both valves I found this by searching for specs.

Jetmoto says to adjust to .004" intake and .006" exhaust.

Allen

[Beavis]

.004" and .006" will be so noisy, you will need earplugs! 8O Use 0.05mm (.002") and 0.08mm (.003") as suggested, and you will be much happier. :D

[katoranger]

Good thing I haven't gotton it all back together yet. I set them to .005". Will change it tommorrow. That seems to be about what they were at before I started.

Allen

[Beavis]

Just did mine the other day. Not careful on the first time, and very unhappy that I had to pull it all apart to do it again. :evil:
For me, I did not have to pull the motor all the way out, I left the lower most rear bolt in but loose, so I could just pivot the motor down and then back up. It's much easier if you don't have to wrestle with it. :D Good luck.

[katoranger]

I went back and set them .05mm. I think that is about what they were before I started. I am thinking that I may be able to get the valve cover off without lowering the engine. I will have to try it next time.

Allen

[madmanjustice]

hmmmm... i picked up 2 sets of feeler gauges today and niether one of them go down to .05mm. In fact none of the sets that I was looking at went that small if i remember correctly.

where are you guys getting your feeler gauges.

[katoranger]

Grandpa's toolbox.

Allen

[Q]

Many of the LF200-GY5 bikes do not have enough clearance between the engine and frame to remove the valve cover. It's a pain to remove the engine mounting bolts and lower the engine. I found that if you grind off about 1/8" of one of the ribs on the valve cover it will clear the frame.

I used a Dremel tool with a sanding drum to remove the material while the valve cover was bolted to the engine. Here's a pic showing which rib to grind down. The rib is already ground down in this pic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/QDM/cylinder.jpg

This is a closer pic of the valve cover with the rib ground down.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/QDM/valvecover.jpg

Here is the rocker assembly on the OHV engine.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/QDM/rockers-1.jpg

This shows timing mark and flywheel bolt access.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/QDM/marks.jpg

Close up of the TDC mark "T"

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/QDM/tmark.jpg

The bolt used to turn the flywheel to align the timing marks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/QDM/flywheelbolt.jpg

Q

[katoranger]

Q, I had thought of doing the same. You can almost sneak it out with the motor bolted in so it had me thinking that just alittle grinding would make it clear.

Thanks for the pics.

Allen

thanks Q.

[Hondarider27]

This helped alot. Would i want to line up the T or the line right next to the T with the line on the case. Also should i use the .002 intake and .003 exhaust ajustments for my star 200cc atv? Thanks alot

[Q]

Yes, line up the line right next to the T although it's not critical. Sorry I don't know the recommended clearance for your ATV. If .002 and .003 is what it says in your owners manual, that's what I'd use.

Q

This helped alot. Would i want to line up the T or the line right next to the T with the line on the case. Also should i use the .002 intake and .003 exhaust ajustments for my star 200cc atv? Thanks alot

[bisaho15]

i have 240 miles on my lf200gy. it has alot of ticking when the engine is hot. i bought it off someone who knew nothing about bikes and it wasnt running when i got it. 2 hours of tolling around has this thing in nice shape. but it does tick alot. should i wait till 500 miles to adjust and hope it breaks in. i dont think the kid i got it from broke it in at all and im sure its seen redline alot.

[Q]

No need to wait. It'll tick when warm even when it's adjusted.

Q

[Lifanrider]

many people on this forum subscribe to the notion that valve ticking on these particular engines is acceptable. mine ticked. was adjusted. 500 kilometers later its ticking again. searching may lead to a straight answer concerning the valve question. maybe they just need frequent maintenance?

got myself a feeler guage. going to try my hand at valve adjustment tomorrow.

[bisaho15]

what will happen if the valves are ticking?

[Q]

Nothing.

If the valves got very loose I suppose the pushrods could pop out of place and the engine would stop.

Q

what will happen if the valves are ticking?

[bisaho15]

so it will just tick? big deal tick away i payed 400 bucks and i hope to get through the summer around town on this thing

[alonzo]

Getting ready to do this maintaince, couldn't find exactly .05 and .08 feeler gauges. the closest I could come was .051 and .076.

Will these feeler gauge sizes work? or did I waste 5.00 bucks?

[DesertDog]

yep a waste
dont adj. them to .051 or .056, the lifters probly wont even touch the valves, that if it is a OHC engine type, or even open them up enough

you need .05 to .08

got mine at checkers, you might try wally-world

and i also picked up and extra gage at the local yamaha dealer here in town

DD

[alonzo]

yep a waste
dont adj. them to .051 or .056, the lifters probly wont even touch the valves, that if it is a OHC engine type, or even open them up enough

you need .05 to .08

got mine at checkers, you might try wally-world

and i also picked up and extra gage at the local yamaha dealer here in town

DD
Sigh* Thanks for the info, even if it is bad news. Oh well gives me a reason to go get some fuel line and try to get a cheap pod filter from the Honda dealer.

[DesertDog]

hey alonzo
if nothing else it does'nt hurt to get to know the parts department guys at the honda dealer, in the long run they might save you time and $$$


that feeler gage will be prebent to perfection , mine was $3.50 or so at the local yamaha dealer here in elko, they know me now , and yes they can smell my chinese . :lol: :lol:
no they are'nt impressed with the make

good luck
DD

ps: play dumb when your in there they might give you 10% off for simpathy

[red2003]

yep a waste
dont adj. them to .051 or .056, the lifters probly wont even touch the valves, that if it is a OHC engine type, or even open them up enough

you need .05 to .08



Huh? .051 and .076 are fine to use. A few thousandths of a mm are well within human error anyway. Those are fine to use, in fact that is EXACTLY what I use. The difference between .05 and .051 is less then the film of oil that will gather on the valve tip once the engine is fired. BTW, these engines (both the pushrod, and OHC) don't have lifters.

[08obpwrx]

^ .051 and .076 is what I used, I too was thinking.... 1/1000 of a mm is not even close to a big deal :D

[alonzo]

I used the .051, .056. that was the sunday after I posted. it is getting to be time to do it again. 150 km to go until I am pulling off the valve cover. and checking the lash :)

[hotform]

I don't know who figured out that you need to use the kick starter to turn the engine over to get to the timing mark, but they are incorrect.
If you look at the picture of the side cover in photo number 3 with the access hole on top, you will also see a cover with 4 bolts down on the side with the bike name on it.
Put an oil catch on the floor as you will loose a little and take this 4 bolt cover off. Inside you will find a bolt that you can put a socket on to turn the engine over. Remember to be in neutral. Turn it counterclockwise until the mark at T lines up at the access hole. It is easier to turn if you take the spark plug out first.
At this point you must make sure that there is some play or wiggle in the rocker arms. It won't be much, but you have to be able to wiggle them up and down slightly. If not you are at the incorrect spot and need to go around to T again. You should then have your wiggle and be able to set your valves.
The reason is that you need to be at top dead center on the compression stroke of your 4 stroke engine which is when the valves are not loaded for intake and exhaust as they are on the other stroke.
Learned all this the hard way on my other bike.
Also for turning the square adjuster at the top, try taking a number 2 square drive screw and cut it down and screw it into a yellow wire nut. It works perfect for holding and moving the adjuster while you tighten down the nut. Learned this the hard way also while using needle nose pliers.

[red2003]

I don't know who figured out that you need to use the kick starter to turn the engine over to get to the timing mark, but they are incorrect.
If you look at the picture of the side cover in photo number 3 with the access hole on top, you will also see a cover with 4 bolts down on the side with the bike name on it.
Put an oil catch on the floor as you will loose a little and take this 4 bolt cover off. Inside you will find a bolt that you can put a socket on to turn the engine over. Remember to be in neutral. Turn it counterclockwise until the mark at T lines up at the access hole. It is easier to turn if you take the spark plug out first.
At this point you must make sure that there is some play or wiggle in the rocker arms. It won't be much, but you have to be able to wiggle them up and down slightly. If not you are at the incorrect spot and need to go around to T again. You should then have your wiggle and be able to set your valves.
The reason is that you need to be at top dead center on the compression stroke of your 4 stroke engine which is when the valves are not loaded for intake and exhaust as they are on the other stroke.
Learned all this the hard way on my other bike.
Also for turning the square adjuster at the top, try taking a number 2 square drive screw and cut it down and screw it into a yellow wire nut. It works perfect for holding and moving the adjuster while you tighten down the nut. Learned this the hard way also while using needle nose pliers.

I suggested you use the kickstarter in my original post. You CAN use the bolt on the end of the flywheel like you suggest, but using the kickstarter ensures you don't turn the engine backwards, AND more importantly you don't loosen the flywheel bolt as you are turning it in the left direction to bring the mark to the T. To each their own.

[yurkia]

kickstarter was only option for me. I don't have access to such a bolt. 8)

[hotform]

I am posting this in this thread for future reference. I had posted it earlier in response to someone that was having trouble adjusting their valves.

Are you guys using the metric reading on your gauges of .05 and .08 or are you using the American system of inches at .005 and .008? If you are using the latter, then you are setting them way too loose. My big V twin cruiser is set for .003 and .007 American.
The correct American inches in thousandths settings would be more like .0015 for intake and .0025 for exhaust, which is where I set mine with no tick. Or for those not looking at all the zeros, one and a half thousandths for the intake and two and a half thousandths for the exhaust. Not much in other words.
Are you at the correct top dead center when setting the valves? It is a 4 stroke motor, so the piston is at top dead center twice during the four strokes. At the TDC of one stroke the exhaust valve has just finished its business and the intake valve is ready to start its business and both valves are fully loaded and this it not the place to set your valves. At TDC of the compression stroke both valves are slightly relaxed. After you pull off the inspection cap on top where you line up your timing mark, is there a cover down around the side with 4 bolts in it that you can take off? If so, put a drain pan under it and take it off, you won't loose too much oil. There should be a bolt inside that you can put a socket on to turn the engine over. Take the spark plug out so it will turn easier and so you don't have to worry about undue pressure creating resistance and somehow loosening something up. Turn it counterclockwise to line up the timing mark. This is in the Lifan owners manual.
When you reach the timing mark, grab the rocker arm at the adjustment nut of the exhaust valve and see if you can wiggle it up and down slightly. If you cannot, then you are at the wrong place in the 4 stroke cycle. Go around 360 degrees and do it again. Do they wiggle now? Compare the two times you did it, which one wiggled. It must wiggle or you do not have the valves relaxed. If you have set them incorrectly at the wrong mark, and I suspect you have, then they will wiggle a bunch when you are in the right spot.
If you are working with the American inches system then set them to .0015 intake and .0025 or .002 exhaust. My needed settings were printed on a label under the left side of the seat.
Need a tool for moving the little square adjuster on top? You can make a quick one out of a number two square drive wood screw and a small yellow wire nut. Just cut the screw back a bit and screw it up into the wire nut. Or a strip of old credit card works great with little square cut out of it.
Now if you are in the right spot at TDC, loosen the nut on top of the adjuster with a 10mm wrench. Insert the correct feeler gauge. Screw the adjuster down with the wire nut tool you just made. Check to make sure your feeler gauge will still move, but just barely with a lot of drag. Now while holding onto the wire nut tool so the adjuster doesn't tighten as you tighten down the nut.
The following is a nice tutorial on adjusting valves. It was made for larger V-Twin Suzuki's, but the principles are the same. This is where I learned to do it working on my street bike. When I did my Lifan valves Friday, it only took me a scant 15 minutes to do so, as I was now an expert from doing my Suzuki a while back.

http://www.therusks.com/index.php?module=documents&JAS_DocumentManager_op=downloadFile&JAS_File_id=50

Here are the links to three pictures showing the tool made out of a wire nut.

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/attachments/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/14034d1213758987-tune-up-valve-adjustment-1.jpg

And this one.

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/attachments/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/14035d1213758987-tune-up-valve-adjustment-2.jpg

One more

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/attachments/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/14036d1213758987-tune-up-valve-adjustment-3.jpg

One more thing, be patient. The first time I ever did valves I thought I was going to kill someone or something I got so frustrated. It wasn't until I had a cold beer, sat down and thought about 4 strokes and realized the relaxed position I needed to have the valves in, that I got it right. I think a lot of people get frustrated the first time they do it, and a lot of them end up with valves that tick and have to do over again.

[psheffie]

This guide was extremely helpful and easy to follow.
Thanks much.

[humanbeing]

Several members have asked for a tutorial on adjusting the valves on these 163fml type motors, so here goes ...
Honda 63.5 x 62.2mm aka "MD29E" in XLR200 suggest IN/EX: .10mm +/-.02mm Data from Honda delear in Japan http://www.ride-inc.net/file/32/data.pdf
Service manual: http://www.4shared.com/document/xZy8oNOV/Honda_XLR_200R_XR_200R_modifie.html
The later Brazil made (same "bore & stroke") also use the SAME adjusment.
http://www.4shared.com/file/gxamcRPV/Honda_XL200_Service_Manual.htm
-
motomanual.com.ar had many Honda parts / service manual in Brazilian Portuguese about "this" engine type.

[kevshek]

Hi Guys,
Im midway through doing my valve clearances and have ran into a problem. A quick skim read of the thread suggests that others may have had this issue too. Heres my problem, the T mark on my flywheel does NOT correspond to TDC on the compression stroke. So before i break anything, id like your opinions please.

Heres the senario. Ive removed my tank/fairing obviously, remove plug, removed viewing cap and crank nut cover. Im using a 14mm socket to turn the engine over for precise control. On the flywheel, there are 2 sets of marking at opposite ends. Ive found the T mark and have confirmed its TDC by dropping a rod down the spark plug hole, but its not the compression stroke, as when my thumb is over the spark plug hole, there is no pressure and the rocker arms are tight. Also just before the T mark, the is also what looks like a F mark on its side. See pics below.

As im turning the engine over, this is the "F" mark that appears as im approaching one of the TDC.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i132/kevshek/bike/DSC_0183.jpg

If i turn a fraction more, youll see the "T" mark appear next to the F mark, here is it coming into view.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i132/kevshek/bike/DSC_0185.jpg

If i turn a little more, the "T" mark now lines up with the case mark at TDC BUT NOT ON COMPRESSION STROKE
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i132/kevshek/bike/DSC_0186.jpg

The only time i get it TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE, with pressure on my thumb at the spark hole, and the rockers feeling LOOSE is when i hit these 2 lines on the opposite side of the flywheel.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i132/kevshek/bike/DSC_0182.jpg

Before i do something wrong, can someone confirm which marks im using ? Also, as you can see, there is a slight gap between the 2 "||" (vertical marks) but which one is actual TDC? the 1st or 2nd one and your turning the engine over?

[Weldangrind]

You are indeed using the correct mark. The crankshaft gear is exactly twice the size of the crank gear, which means that you need to turn the engine one more revolution if you don't find the compression stroke the first time. Make sense?

[kevshek]

Ah, just ignore the above, i figured it out now. I redid the test by using my thumb, and it does compress as i approach the T mark, and the rocker arms do become loose. Ive now adjusted them and will putting the bike together tomorrow.

[kevshek]

One thing that hasnt been mentioned what is the torque setting for the lock nut? I ask cos i dont want to snap the rocker arm, and these bikes vibrate really badly and everything becomes loose!

[FastDoc]

Just snug. Maybe 5-7 foot lbs.

[SpudRider]

One thing that hasnt been mentioned what is the torque setting for the lock nut? I ask cos i dont want to snap the rocker arm, and these bikes vibrate really badly and everything becomes loose!
I tighten the lock nuts pretty hard on my Zongshen/Yamaha engine; this technique has never harmed my bike. :) However, the Hondoid bikes might be different. ;)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

I make 'em pretty tight on Hondas and clones as well. A buddy of mine set his valves and didn't tighten the nuts enough, with nearly disastrous results. We were able to fish the nut out of the bottom of the engine and replace the damaged stuff, so he got lucky.

[Weldangrind]

Were the valves too tight, kevshek?

[SpudRider]

Were the valves too tight, kevshek?
X2. How far out of adjustment were the valves?

Spud :)

[kevshek]

you know, i cant remember! i dont think i even measured them before, i just loosend the lock nut, backed it off and set about dialing them in. If anything, maybe they were too loose, ie gap too big. I do remember being able to wiggle them cos it made a ticking noise side to side.

[Weldangrind]

It has been my experience with China motors that the exhaust valve is too tight, which doesn't allow pressure to build.

[SpudRider]

I replaced the cylinder head on the engine of my Zongshen 200GY-2 at 31,500 miles. The intake valve was receding into the cylinder head, so the intake valve lash was always tight. My bike was very difficult to start with a tight intake valve. ;)

Spud :)

[chuck]

I am posting this in this thread for future reference. I had posted it earlier in response to someone that was having trouble adjusting their valves.

Are you guys using the metric reading on your gauges of .05 and .08 or are you using the American system of inches at .005 and .008? If you are using the latter, then you are setting them way too loose. My big V twin cruiser is set for .003 and .007 American.
The correct American inches in thousandths settings would be more like .0015 for intake and .0025 for exhaust, which is where I set mine with no tick. Or for those not looking at all the zeros, one and a half thousandths for the intake and two and a half thousandths for the exhaust. Not much in other words.
Are you at the correct top dead center when setting the valves? It is a 4 stroke motor, so the piston is at top dead center twice during the four strokes. At the TDC of one stroke the exhaust valve has just finished its business and the intake valve is ready to start its business and both valves are fully loaded and this it not the place to set your valves. At TDC of the compression stroke both valves are slightly relaxed. After you pull off the inspection cap on top where you line up your timing mark, is there a cover down around the side with 4 bolts in it that you can take off? If so, put a drain pan under it and take it off, you won't loose too much oil. There should be a bolt inside that you can put a socket on to turn the engine over. Take the spark plug out so it will turn easier and so you don't have to worry about undue pressure creating resistance and somehow loosening something up. Turn it counterclockwise to line up the timing mark. This is in the Lifan owners manual.
When you reach the timing mark, grab the rocker arm at the adjustment nut of the exhaust valve and see if you can wiggle it up and down slightly. If you cannot, then you are at the wrong place in the 4 stroke cycle. Go around 360 degrees and do it again. Do they wiggle now? Compare the two times you did it, which one wiggled. It must wiggle or you do not have the valves relaxed. If you have set them incorrectly at the wrong mark, and I suspect you have, then they will wiggle a bunch when you are in the right spot.
If you are working with the American inches system then set them to .0015 intake and .0025 or .002 exhaust. My needed settings were printed on a label under the left side of the seat.
Need a tool for moving the little square adjuster on top? You can make a quick one out of a number two square drive wood screw and a small yellow wire nut. Just cut the screw back a bit and screw it up into the wire nut. Or a strip of old credit card works great with little square cut out of it.
Now if you are in the right spot at TDC, loosen the nut on top of the adjuster with a 10mm wrench. Insert the correct feeler gauge. Screw the adjuster down with the wire nut tool you just made. Check to make sure your feeler gauge will still move, but just barely with a lot of drag. Now while holding onto the wire nut tool so the adjuster doesn't tighten as you tighten down the nut.
The following is a nice tutorial on adjusting valves. It was made for larger V-Twin Suzuki's, but the principles are the same. This is where I learned to do it working on my street bike. When I did my Lifan valves Friday, it only took me a scant 15 minutes to do so, as I was now an expert from doing my Suzuki a while back.

http://www.therusks.com/index.php?module=documents&JAS_DocumentManager_op=downloadFile&JAS_File_id=50

Here are the links to three pictures showing the tool made out of a wire nut.

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/attachments/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/14034d1213758987-tune-up-valve-adjustment-1.jpg

And this one.

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/attachments/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/14035d1213758987-tune-up-valve-adjustment-2.jpg

One more

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/attachments/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/14036d1213758987-tune-up-valve-adjustment-3.jpg

One more thing, be patient. The first time I ever did valves I thought I was going to kill someone or something I got so frustrated. It wasn't until I had a cold beer, sat down and thought about 4 strokes and realized the relaxed position I needed to have the valves in, that I got it right. I think a lot of people get frustrated the first time they do it, and a lot of them end up with valves that tick and have to do over again.
Thanks hotform,mine where adjusted wrong.I followed your thread and the correct gauges 0.04mm and 0.06mm and it sound great now.No more excessive tapping.

[Weldangrind]

Wow, this is an eight year old thread that is still helping people! :D

[SpudRider]

Wow, this is an eight year old thread that is still helping people! :D

That's why this thread is in the Tech Sticky. :tup:

[Merlin]

Its helping me today with my new Bashan Blaze 250. Thanks for all the good info guys! :tup:

[Ariel Red Hunter]

The specs are directly from my Roketa manual that came with the bike. No max or min, valve lash IS what it is. Running the valve clearance tighter then spec is a bad idea. It is set to factory specs for a reason. If you set it too tight, the valves will be held open when the motor heats up and you will LOSE performance. Setting the clearance tighter might get you a little more valve lift safely, but it would have nothing to do with the duration. Cam lift duration is a function of the cam lobe profile, and that can only be changed with a different camshaft.
Red, setting the valves too tight will cause a lot more problems than poorer performance. Overly tight valves cause 750 degree exhaust gas to escape through both valves. This is not as hot as an acetylene torch, but it is hot enough to cut the valve and valve seat in a comparativly short time. It is imperitive to have the valve clearances set correctly, or slightly loose. Slightly loose causes much less grief than slightly too tight. :cry:

[simonjester]

Its helping me with today my new Bashan Blaze 250. Thanks for all the good info guys! :tup:

This is the best forum in the world!!! :tup: