Hey y'all brand new here but long-time motocross racer/motorcycle rider. I've been taking bikes apart and putting them back together my whole life.

I bought one of these to play around with and I just want to chime in with my 2 cents on a few things especially the fork fluid. I am 6'1 and 185 pounds, I set the sag on the rear suspension was straight forward and exactly like any jap bike I have ever ridden. I can go into further detail with y'all on that if any of you would want me to.

As far as the fork fluid goes, I have found out 300ml in each fork works perfect for me and will not bottom out at all. I used STP AW-32 hydraulic fluid (from the research I did there was not much difference between it and 15w fork fluid). I like my front forks on the stiffer side, I was very impressed with how it handles once I got the suspension set how I wanted. It reminds me of an early 2000s KTM bike with how it handles.

I am running Valvoline's 15w-40 4 stroke oil.

When I assembled the bike I removed every bolt (except for the bolts for the seat since i clean the air filter every single time I ride) and applied a little orange loctite to said bolts.

Tire pressure- I have found 24psi in the rear and 18psi in the front works well for me as well.

I am right over 50 miles so I am going to do a valve adjustment and another oil/filter change one night this week.

Things I will be covering as I get to it is a carb swap, exhaust upgrade and sprocket changes for more top end.

Looking forward to chatting with you guys in here!

Purchased a new Titan DLX for my son to learn on this past week and been having a blast. Few small issues I figured I'd post to see if anyone has any quick recommendations. We are planning on picking up a Nibbi carb, however the current one stock is a PE30, do I get the 30mm Nibbi or the 28? Seems few people are recommending to get the 28, not sure if its fitment issues or what so figured I'd ask right quick.

Also having a problem with idle when choke is off. The idle drops off and kills the bike when the choke is completely pushed down, however with it just BARELY hitting the choke lever it holds idle..? I've tried playing with the idle adjustment screw but it doesn't affect when the lever is completely down. Even then, when its just barely touching the choke pull lever it idles somewhat okay. It almost looks like its not even doing anything to the choke lever, but when its completely off of it (down) it dies on idle.

I'm not sure where the mixture screw is to adjust. It seems people are mentioning its underneath on the manifold side, but there is a hole and I'm unable to actually see into it because of the fit. Any locations for this? The manual lists about 4-6 different bike variations and they aren't very descriptive.

EDIT: Upon further inspection I believe I've found the mixture screw underneath the carb on the manifold side, but it appears to be blocked by a solid piece of brass or something? Not really sure how to either remove it, or cut a divit into it to use a screw driver?

Carburetor mixture screw
 

Your carburetor may be different, but the portion of the CSC video about how to cut a slot in the mixture screw should still apply. The part you'll be interested in is about 3:50 into the video. The whole thing is worth a watch just for educational purposes. https://cscmotorcycles.com/tt250-car...maintenance-1/

I used a left hand drill bit to put a hole in the plug to remove it. If you use a regular right hand bit and you drill past the plug and touch the mixture screw you can damage the mixture screw to where you'll never be able to set idle mixture properly. Good luck, BTW the bit size used was 1/8".

I actually had planned to this method with the dremel and slot, but it appears the wells plug is actually pushed deep into the screw slot. So appears I'll have to either drill into it and hopefully not hit the mixture screw, or just purchased a new nibbi carb to be honest.

Hello all, I've recently purchased a 2023 titan dlx and it came with a 520 chain. I want to drop the rear sprocket from the stock 44t to a 40t but it has a different looking sprocket then any of the other bikes I've looked at (templar, orion rbx 230) it has a smaller bore center hole and mounts with 4 bolts. Does anyone have a link for this sprocket? I have a new higher quality chain but I'd like to do the sprocket at the same time. Thanks!

Does the sprocket look different than the one listed early in this thread? I've installed a 40T sprocket on mine using the info provided and it fit perfectly and worked well.:)

I must have missed the link for the rear sprocket. I'll go back through the thread and try to find it. I only have 6 mile ride to my local trails but with the stock gearing, 55mph sounds like the bike is running pretty hard. I don't need to go any faster but I'd like to lower my RPM's down some.

Great post, got my TM 33 yesterday. Started futzin today deleted a few items currently on my second break in cycle. Carbs leaking floats seem stuck. Fixing that and will re jet. Plan to keep stock carb first 30 hours. Porting and polishing the exhaust flange, a lot of congestion there. Those shipping fork insulation make great work securing the battery correctly. Also added zip ties wire insulation to the battery box.

Carb fixed, lets upgrade the fork oil

We have any resources for aftermarket or stock replacement brake pedal/shifters?

Son bent his rear brake pedal today on some trails and as flimsy thin metal as it is, wasn't sure if there are any aftermarket options that would be available? Or maybe similar style as other bikes?