The fact that you're aware it's supposed to be a pressed fit is half the battle right there. I'm not sure which videos you've seen but I'm sure they'll help. Having a proper plate pressing tool is handy, but not 100% necessary as there are work-arounds as you've no doubt seen in the videos.

Best of luck with a successful installation!

The guy I saw used an old link that was cut off to press against the side of the new master link, then a regular clamp to squeeze it down carefully.


Tapering the master link pins is where I'm scratching my head, without using the special tool.



Also, does it sound like a good idea to lay the new chain next to the old one to measure it, and remove the new links to keep it 1-2 links longer than the old one? I'm sooo worried about removing a link too many.

Did you get a chain with a rivet-type master link, or a clip-type master link? A proper rivet tool is pretty essential to ensure a secure fit with a rivet-type master link. Although there are alternative methods, it's not something you'd want to chance. Losing a chain while riding can be pretty dangerous if it wraps up in such a fashion to lock the rear wheel. If it wraps around the countershaft sprocket it wouldn't be as dangerous but could cause some pretty extensive damage. Best case for a lost chain is that it just drops off on the road. Even that can be precarious depending on the situation. A clip-type master link doesn't necessarily require any special tools but you do need to make sure the outer link plate is squarely pressed over the pins and properly seated, but not over-seated so as to cause a bind in the links, before installing the clip. It's not rocket science but you can bend the link plate if you go about it in a ham-fisted manner.

As for being worried about removing too many links, just wrap the chain around the sprockets, on the bike, and leave one end of the chain at about the 2 o'clock position on the rear sprocket. Then bring the other end of the chain up to meet that end of the chain that's already on the sprocket while pivoting back as many links as you need to in order to make the ends meet. Physically mark the chain with a grease pencil, crayon, paint dab, or whatever so you're absolutely sure you'll be shortening the chain on the right link. I think that once you go to do it you'll realize it's not as complicated as you may be thinking it is.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...x-ring-chain-p


This is the one, but I can't remember if I saw a master clip. Well if it is the other, I'll have to run to a store to get the proper tool, that's why I'm nervous since this operation is crucial to maintaining life.

DID makes both a clip-type and rivet-type master link for that series chain. I'm not sure which it ships with. Maybe both? The clip-type makes for an easier installation, but the rivet-type is more secure, at least when riveted properly it's more secure. The downside to the rivet-type is that if you change gearing often back and forth from on-road to off-road gearing, and that gearing change requires a change in the chain length, you have to replace the rivet-type every time. They're a one-shot deal.

I've seen a guy do a riveted master link with nothing but hand tools. Pliers, vice grips, some wood, a center punch, and a hammer.

Specialty tools make it easier/faster, but definitely not needed.

Well I caved and ran to the shop for a $30 nicer set (on sale from $90!!). Then got home and see the link came with both types of connections. Well... Might as well rivet 'er on! I can see now judging by how thin these clips are why it's a weak point.

I prefer clip style master links for off roading. I just carry a spare.

Lord knows I've made do with less than the ideal tools at times, but at least having some knowledge of what the proper tools do, and how they do it, can make a work-around tool solution a lot easier to implement. I've been known to steal the old quote, "I've done so much with so little for so long that I can now do anything with nothing" from time to time. ;)

The MacGyver generation

MacGyver is my hero. I got into electronics repair over 20yrs ago largely due to him, and wanted a dirtbike since I was kid because of him blasting through a fiery village in Burma on some kind of olive drab dual sport.

I used to use the continuous link style (rivet type master link) on big bikes. But I also use the clip type on my dirt bikes. They are much easier to deal with.

Some people are afraid of dropping their chain mid-ride. I suppose it is possible but I have never had this happen even after lots of removal/replace for lubrication. I think it is important to make sure that the open end of the clip is on the trailing side. Maybe if that convention isn't followed, the clip can get pushed off by debris. Makes sense.

The clip type master link is standard on a KTM 250 SX (motocross). It must be pretty dependable!

And yes, always keep a roll of bailing wire, some paper clips, rope, old wires and a soldering iron, duct tape, and a bearing press kit handy. Wasn't that the Army's diesel KLR project MacGyver was riding through the burning town ?! lol

Success!!! Turns out it only had the clip style link included. And to make things even better, the one on there had a clip so I didn't have to cut it off, AND the 130 link chain I got (DID 428 VX X-Ring https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...x-ring-chain-p) was a dang-gone perfect fit for the 17T front and 45T rear sprockets, so no cutting was needed whatsoever. It adds maybe 3-5mph to the top of each gear, so before I was at 6k rpm at 55mph, now it's 60mph which I can hold easily. Thanks so much for the help everyone!


And an added bonus, as I pulled into work this morning, this happened...

https://i.ibb.co/dkvm7LZ/20240415-064816.jpg

YES! That's the one! What a beauty...
https://i.ibb.co/ZHWGyYG/Kawasaki-KL...Motorcycle.jpg

Diesel KLR!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFXihbms4IQ