So other then riding this bike , and a few small items to fix, I believe this project is about done.
One thing I noticed is the motor is very quiet with no happy tappy valve train noise . It runs great with about 30-40 miles on it now. Do you guys hear your valve tappy sound on these push rod motors? I plan on checking valve clearance after a few hundred miles.
To lazy right now to take all the plastic and tank of again. :ohno: Haven't removed CAT yet, and only lifted needle up in carb 1 notch so far. I'm at 930' elevation. Pilot jet screw is out 1 1/2 turns.
Any other suggestions or specific ideas you guys have on making this bike a very usable scoot for us?
Thanks for all your help, it has been a fun project with my son and I'm sure it will provide miles of smiles for us. rj

At the risk of being Debbie Downer, I encourage you to check the valves right away. Tappy valves are happy valves; they should make some noise. If there is zero clearance, you won't have the proper hydrodynamic wedge between the rocker and valve tip, which results in quick wear.

Understood Weld, that's what my gut has been telling me to do, so i'll give it a look tomorrow, thanks rj

What are you setting the valve clearance at guys on these pushrod motors?
And how tight are you running the drive chain?
I have no manual to look at is why I ask.
thanks rj

For specs, Google CG125; they're the same for valve clearances.
For the chain on a new bike, I support the frame under the engine and remove the rear shock. I then place a scissor jack under the rear tire and raise it until the rear axle, swingarm pivot bolt and countershaft are all in a straight line. I then adjust the chain tension until it is just taut, without being tight. Since that is the point in the suspension travel where chain tension will be the tightest, I know that it will be looser elsewhere. Once the tension is locked down, I reinstall the rear shock and put the bike back on the ground. I then measure the slack at the mid-point of the chain and record it. Next time, you'll be able to simply check the tension with the bike on the side stand.


It's a lengthy process the first time, but you'll know that it isn't too tight when the suspension is compressed.

I Looked at the pages humanbeing referenced after I set valves yesterday and before I saw these additional posts on here. :doh:
So I set them too .003" each. This gave me a little wiggle in the rockers where as before I couldn't feel any movement. Next question is I thought we set them to the F mark and not the T mark. Did I get this backwards? Will it make any difference? Runs really good.
On a side note the valve cover came off with plenty of room whereas on the original motor I had to remove front motor mounts and tilt engine forward to get the cover off, bonus value. rj

It probably doesn't matter, but I use the T mark. Good news on the valve cover clearance! That was a nice surprise.

So I rode it around today and put another 30 miles on it. Everything seems fine except when coming to a stop I get a gravelly chain grinding noise that is bugging me. I took off the counter shaft sprocket cover and then the plastic chain guide thinking chain was rubbing on them. Then tightened the chain a little .
Still does it.
Pushing around the parking lot and using the front brake off and on I can get the front brake to chatter like a cow having a calf. The outside part of caliper is bolted to the forks solidly , but the inner part that holds the pucks has play in it , more then my other bikes. So I'm wondering if this is normal to do this or if you guys have experienced it and came up with a fix? Thanks, Rob