Mine has never had a fill without Lucas added! Bike runs great!

I got the small jug of Lucas when we bought the TT250 because CSC recommended to use it during break-in. No other reason.

Now, in all my years of wrenching and building motors, I've never been one to believe in "Miracle in a Can" but it was cheap enough so I said why not? You use so little, I squirt some in all my bikes now when I fill them. Not sure why.... I guess it's kind of like taking a multi-vitamin. You never know if they actually help, but it can't hurt.

I'm not sure if I'll replace the Lucas when it runs out or not.

Same here, not a believer in snake oil...but on CSC recommendation during break-in used 1 shot glass per tankful.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psuajlsftd.jpg

Not that it helped prevent the damaged camshaft...;)

On the other hand, the Seafoam works wonders on gummed up carburetors.... 1 oz per gallon or 2 oz per gallon for quicker results.

Like the Lucas, it takes a few tankfuls for it to work.

The Lucas is very "oily" feeling to the touch. It seems to be more of a lubricant than cleaner.

........and don't think either have anything to do with solving the "stalling" problem,

jb

When I received my RX3 I pondered adding Blastolene to the gas, but unfortunately it seems to be no longer in distribution. :ohno:

Hello guys i have a same problem with that motorbike. Someody knows why is that happening?

I'm considering buying my friends bike and it does stall when rolling to a stop , I don't know if I should or not get it now that I find all this ...It has a little bit over 4000 miles , he hasn't done anything of whats been suggested in here yet , he just lives with it I guess.

If nothing has been done to the bike, it probably just needs its initial valve adjustment - not a reason not to buy the bike whatsoever.

My bike is around 7000km which is about same in miles as you mentioned... I never got it to the mechnic for initial valve clearnace... it does stall but not all the time but randomly.... I never paid attention just push the start button... and its back.
While my friend who bought exactly same date got its valve losened a bit and he never reported it again..

As stated by everyone else, it's usually the valves are too tight. Also, check your battery terminals.

DS Chic is right, it's time for the valves to be adjusted. My bike started to do the same at around 4400 miles; when I checked the valves the intakes were OK but the exhausts were almost solid. Adjusted them back to .003" and the bike ran like a top again. On my last valve check, at 8500 miles, the valves were all still in spec with no movement. Please note that I do use the Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant additive mentioned earlier in the thread. One gallon from Walmart at $30 has lasted me almost 10000 miles, so I consider it cheap insurance against valve wear. You have to remember that most motorcycle engines live most of their lives at a RPM range that would be at the top operating range or red line for a car engine, so accelerated valve wear is to be expected.

My advice regarding the purchase of your friends RX3 would be to buy it, adjust the valves and then enjoy the ride.

My additional comment is to GET THEM ADJUSTED. If you don't then you'll end up ruining the top end of the motor.

Mine use to stall a lot when coasting to a stop with the clutch in. Using the recommended fuel additive helped a little. A Valve adjustment helped a little. Blipping the throttle before taking off from a stop helps. Otherwise if I throttle under load from the start revs will go down just enough to kill the engine.

Lately the bike has been shutting down on me 2 - 3 times on a 15 minute commute in city streets. I don't let it warm up first and I use crap fuel from Tesoro 87 octane. I just deal with it by always keeping my thumb at the ready in case the engine cuts off I can crank it right back up and proceed like nothing happened ^_^

Wow.
 

Uh, okay.

Have several (more) ideas but no one around with a RX3 to try them on (hint hint, anyone in my area with this problem shoot me a PM and ride on over to get this problem worked out for everyone)... Here is what I'm thinking for those too far away

Has anyone try to clean up all electrical components including the grounds (don't forget any paint on the frame and in the threads) and sealing all wires/connectors/grounds/bolts with Dielectric Grease?

Can someone do a "military white glove test" and check everything past the air filter up to the throttle body looking for any signs of dirt/dust/oil/etc. Gummed up throttle bodies can cause similar problems at low rpms.

I don't remember all the "sensors" down by/in the throttle body so make sure you buy an actual "Throttle Body and Intake" cleaner (Amsoil Power Foam is good too)... do NOT use the usual "Carb Cleaner", it can do a lot of damage to sensitive Throttle Body parts... if it needed cleaning, find and fix the leak past the air filter

How about "adding on bigger ground wires" like 'we' usually do with cars (like "the big 3")? Won't need to go as big as 'we' normally do (usually 0 AWG or larger), just adding larger grounds has helped several motos in the past, who knows it might help with the RX3 issue ???

I'm sure I will think of more to do but that is where I would start working on this problem with the fuel treatment not helping.

This is most likely when mine may do it. I have to watch it when cold and during the transitional time it's switching between open and closed loop. Once it's hot, it usually never stalls.
I figured it's worse when the valves aren't set right but I feel it's just the EFI not reacting as quickly as it should when not full operating temp. It also may do it after a seriously long downhill coast. There's a long, steep downgrade with a stop sign at the bottom by our house. That's the place it will most likely stall if I don't blip the throttle a couple times on the way down and just before stopping.