Price reduction
 

I put my RX3 for sale on here a while back and now the new price is $1200.
It is a 2017 model, blue, with 1572 miles, tall seat, centerstand, a Pathfinder LED headlight, and a tall trunk all installed.
Other parts I have but haven't been installed are a new DID chain, new model coolant recovery bottle, and extended clutch arm, and new rear innertube (the original tube has had a slow leak since I received the bike).
I also have the stock seat, narrow seat, and original top trunk.

$ 1200.00 GETS IT ALL.

Sorry, I can't text and I don't have any pics (don't have a camera). The bike is in very good condition, never been off road. If you're interested send me a private message and we'll go from there.

EDIT: THE BIKE WAS SOLD

FYI, I sold mine VERY easily on CL. It was gone in less than a week, at $2k. I had more mods, but also more miles and it was a 16.

If I could I would've listed it for more but I'm out of a job so I need to sell it ASAP

My point is that CL was the venue that worked for me, very fast. I got zero hits from listing it here.

PM Sent and voicemail left. I want it!

Charles.

I got it!

Charles.

ugh images still broken.

Anyhow, it was a stellar deal guys, and I'm really happy. Test rode it around the block and I love it so far. I will get insurance and a plate monday.

Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to farkle it...


Charles.

Excellent!

Glad it went to a Chinarider! :tup: Emerikol was trying to get me in on this bike a few weeks back, but it was just too far logistically.

Yea, I'm glad it "stayed in the family". I talked to one other fellow about it but I got the feeling he didn't know about CSC or Chinese bikes. I didn't want to take the chance of him coming back at me if something went wrong and he couldn't find any place to work on it or having only one place to get parts.

No such thing as too far! ;) I just think there wasn't enough time for you. It would have been an absolutely EPIC trip to go and pick this one up for you, Culcune. In any event, I'm glad it went to a fellow forum member!

This is how she looked when I brought her home!

https://advrider.com/f/attachments/6...-jpeg.2629621/

I have since removed every faded and peeling sticker on the bike. The "adventure" and "rx3" stickers are gone, the tank stickers are gone, and all the stickers on the frame and swingarm are removed. The one with the tire pressure and vin number was a real bear to get off, I needed a scraper and adhesive remover and a lot of elbow grease. It was peeling aroudn the edges and looked like hell, otherwise I would have left it alone.

I also cleaned out four mud dauber nests so far. One on top of the headlight, one under the passenger seat, one inside the left fairing, and one next to the battery. I've replaced the headlight with the LED bulb that rd1959 so graciously included, but I haven't had a chance to ride with the new bulb yet. The 45/45 H4 wasn't actually bad. It's better than my 2017 Yamaha SCR950 with a stock 55/60 bulb... the reflector in the RX3 is actually decent. (The yamaha's suckkkkkkks).

I wired in a cell phone holder/wireless charger and a battery tender lead as well. I modified all the lock cylinders on the bike so that the key can be removed when the cases are unlocked. This makes life a lot more manageable for me.

I ordered a 13T countershaft sprocket and a speedo healer - speedo is off by about 12%. At the upper end 87mph indicated is actually 79mph on my GPS. I also ordered some handguards from Aliexpress, as they're made specifically for the RX3 and mount cleanly without clamps all over the handlebars. (They mount to the mirrors and control clamp 8mm bolts). BUT... they don't offer anything except wind protection. They have no bar to protect the levers, so I may end up with a different set anyhow.

I replaced four rusty bolts and tomorrow when it's not ball-freezing cold I'll touch up the rusty swingarm pivot bolt and the breather on the motor, which have some rust on them.

For sitting outside four years in the NC weather, that was the only rust on the bike. Hell, the Suzuki SV650 I have in the driveway has far more rust than that in the same period of time. I'm impressed!

Some of the rubber is sun checked. The clutch cable cover at the handlebars is cracked and weathered, and the rubber cover over the headlight connector turned to stone and I had to cut and break it off in pieces so I could disconnect the headlight housing from the harness and remove it.

I noticed that there are a few melty areas from where the sun was magnified by the shape of the windscreen. It caused a little divot on the top of the headlight housing, and also slightly warped the top rim of the gauges. There are even some smooth spots that look worn on the inside of the tachometer face, but appear to be slightly melted. Not a big deal, but has anyone else noticed something like this happening?

My next step after handguards are heated grips and hippo hands. I'm also trying to find some wings to attach to the sides of the windscreen to get my shoulders out of the airflow. With JC Whitney dead and gone, it's hard to find stuff like that now. I'm looking for these things attached to the GL1200 windshield:

https://www.nationalpowersports.net/...4/_MG_8572.jpg

I'm having quite a good time farkling this thing. Part of the draw is to spend as little money as possible. :)

Charles.

I'm glad to know there weren't any major problems I didn't know about (I hate when that happens).
I figured you'd find more mud dauber nests. I think I told you about my battle between mud daubers and cats, looks like the daubers won, lol.
I forgot to mention the headlight bulb is not stock. The stock bulb is a 35/45. I replaced it with one I bought on Amazon. I think the brand name was EIKO 45/55 watt. It was definitely better than stock but still had the same abrupt cutoff pattern as stock.

I'm sure the old girl's happy having someone paying attention to her. If you can get hold of the gentleman on here that goes by NZBreaklathes, he might be able to help find some of the parts you're looking for if they exist. He's the one I bought the new style coolant bottle and extended clutch lever arm from.

HAPPY MOTORING!

Unfortunately she had a sudden loss of power on the highway and sparks flying out the exhaust today. I think I may have lunched an exhaust valve. Will call csc tomorrow and pick their brains.

Charles.

Oh no!

Yeah, I was so looking forward to telling you I had already doubled the miles.

I guess i shouldn't have waited until 3000 miles to check the valves again. But the bike was running so well, I had no indication that anything was wrong.

Charles.

Heh that tube you said was leaking, I never noticed more than a couple psi loss so I kept running it. It failed yesterday. The valve stem separated from the tube I didn’t see any other damage to the tube.

Replaced the tube and the tire now. Shinko 705 on the rear now!

Charles.

It's a good thing I bought that tube. I'm sure it's better quality than the original.

I’ve been busy making it mine.

https://advrider.com/f/attachments/0...-jpeg.2668282/

Removed all the decals on the tank and swing arm. Added some bags to the crash bars and pannier bars, tank bag, Zhongshen hand guards, led headlight bulb, shinko 705 rear tire, and more.

Charles.

This bike is now my winter bike and commuter. The wind protection is exceptional as it is, but I’m getting a bigger windshield from Thailand and heated grips and hippo hands so I can ride until the spring. I can’t wait to take this thing a long distance cruises. The bags on the bars block the wind and force Warm air from the radiator over my legs. I’m thinking if I make deflectors for the lower crash guards I might end up being comfortable into the 40s if not 30s. My heated vest as well, but my legs get cold. I’m going to get some plexiglass after Thanksgiving and see what I can come up with.

Charles.

good write ups! Glad it all worked out

Bike looks good! :tup:

For the legs, get a pair of rain pants. Being waterproof also makes them windproof, which really cuts down on the heat loss due to wind chill. I'm currently running a pair of $30 hi viz rain pants without issue. If you're still too cold after that, try adding a pair of armored shorts to the mix. I use Forcefield Pro Action shorts; the armor pads are literally over 1/2" of multilayered foam rubber. The Pro Actions are no longer made, but there are similar shorts out there from other manufacturers.

You want to be careful running this bike in the winter with both radiators in use, the NC250 runs pretty cold blooded in the RX3 as it is even in warm temps, in cooler weather it tends to collect enough gas in the oil to dilute it pretty badly; this gets even worse as the temps drop further. Make sure that you are checking and draining the crankcase contaminate/condensate separator vent line often; after each ride for sure, multiple times on long rides. I run mine with one radiator blocked off with a piece of inner tube rubber that I cut to fit and wedged in between the radiator and the plastic rock deflector that snaps in front of it. This usually keeps me at two to three bars on the temperature gauge, with three bars being what I shoot for most of the time. In fact, I don't unblock the radiator until temps get into the mid 80's F and higher.

The cooling system on the RX3 appears to have been designed for a much hotter and humid environment, like what they have in Southeast Asia, Central America, and equatorial South America. It's total over kill for most of North America and our mainly temperate climate; the deep south, southern Texas and the desert southwest excepted.

Where is this drain you talk about?

Charles.

I think he's talking about the doohickey on the left side, front of the engine that has a clear tube pointing toward the ground with a plug on the end. Yours won't have the plug, it fell out a long time ago and I never replaced it. With the plug in you would see condensation build up in the tube over time and once in a while you'd have to remove the plug to drain it.

It looks a lot better without the decals.

Ah yeah I wondered if that might be it, and I was missing a part.

Charles.

Working:I run mine with one radiator blocked off with a piece of inner tube rubber that I cut to fit and wedged in between the radiator and the plastic rock deflector that snaps in front of it.

Have you considered running with smaller pieces of inner tube on both radiators. You would get more uniform coolant temperature between the two, and less temperature drop in both that you get blocking one. The coolant on both sides would loose heat rather than circulating hot coolant on one side and cooler on the other. I have no idea of where/how the coolant returns from the radiators and whether it merges the two flows before entering the water jacket. If the coolant goes to two different places, one may assume the bits inside are not getting equal cooling. More or less.
tom

The coolant goes from the head to a thermostat, then to the left radiator, then over to the right radiator, then down to the water pump. The OEM thermostat is set too low (IMHO) so I replaced it with a hotter one I got from ThermoBob. He sells them for the KLR650. I had to mill out a bit of the thermostat housing so the thermostat would fit. In the end my engine seemed to heat up faster but not overheat. It seemed to me that the engine is grossly over cooled. That leads to condensation in the oil, as evidenced by the water buildup in the drain that was mentioned earlier in this thread.

Charles, you will note that I sent you a small hose. That goes from the engine to the valve that is supposed to strip water vapor from the engine blowby. The clutch cable tends to rub on that hose and in the end will rub through unless you are careful with how you position it. The RX4 does not use the same system so that hose was excess to me.

My bike seems to heat up quickly and stays at 3-4 bars in normal operation. I’m in NC so I appreciate the extra capacity of the cooling system.

Charles.

Keep an eye on the coolant level. It has a tendency to drop a little more than I would expect but it never got dangerously low. It improved over time, I guess I had to work out some air bubbles in the system but, there might be some small bubbles still in there.
The bike, when I owned it, would stay consistently at 2 bars in cooler weather in stop and go traffic and during the hotter months would rise to 4 bars at a stop light and, once moving would drop to 3 bars and stay there but, I babied it so YMMV.

Yeah, I'm not babying it at all. I've never babied any of my bikes, and they've all lasted until I was done with them, or until age related failures finally did them in. I've had my 1984 V65 Magna for almost 21 years and 90,000 miles, and finally trifecta of water pump, clutch slave cylinder, and head gasket have laid it up... not really worth the cost of parts and labor to fix it, but I probably am going to anyways.... one of these days. (The headgasket is not a fun job.)

Charles.

The coolant hose on the overflow bottle was twisted to the point of rupture. It started cracking down the side. I swapped to the new style water bottle you included, and hopefully that will eliminate any problems with coolant loss. But I will keep an eye on it. In fact, I've installed every extra part you included, except the headlight bulb. I wasn't satisfied with the beam pattern and the lack of a real high beam (no downward-firing LEDs), so I used an ADVMonster H4R3 bulb I had on my shelf.

I'm quite enjoying the bike, trying to put a bunch of miles on it and looking forward to loading it up for a real camping trip in the spring.

Charles.

Did that extended clutch thingie help widen the engagement area? The stock engagement was too far out and too narrow making it difficult to modulate, almost like a 70s era 125cc motocross bike.

I had that on my RX3 and it definitely improved the clutch. Engagement was wider, pull was softer.

Pull is definitely softer, and the engagement zone widens when the bike is hot. When it's cold it doesn't seem much different.

Charles.