2022 Templar X 6sp Review
 

Wanted to get my initial thoughts down for the benefit of those considering this bike:

Ordering: I ordered the bike from PowerSports Max and the process was seamless online.

Delivery Time: Amazing.. I ordered on a Saturday and received the bike 5 days later

Price: $2150 including $350 shipping

Delivery: I've bought 3 Chinabikes online prior to this purchase and every one of them arrived in a beaten up cardboard metal bent-up crate. My last delivery of the Titan DLX came with the bike shipped upside down, oil all over the bike including seat as well as scratches on the fork caps and exhaust. Well i was expecting the worst but got the best. The box was shrink-wrapped without even a tear at all, perfect condition. Inside, everything was padded and zip-tied and again in perfect condition. I was amazed! I think the vendors are demanding better and getting it from the shippers (R&L Carriers in my case)

Assembly: There are some extra steps you will need to take which are not the norm; the triple-tree and fork tubes are not installed and need to be carefully assembled with the steering parts in the correct order. Luckily the parts are attached in the tree in correct order so you just need to remove them and place down in the order of assembly. This is a good time to actually see the inside of the steering assembly and of course slather it with grease all over the bearings and parts. Note: the bearings are slightly greased from factory and the triple-tree and fork tubes have L and R arrows to align during assembly.. easy peasy. Note: i had my wife slide the jack under the bike while i lifted the bars.. this was probably the hardest part of the build.
I connected the triple-tree to the frame and then afterwards connected the handlebars. Having the bars hooked up allowed me to be able to lift the bike off the metal crate later on to be able to slide a jack underneath in order to connect the fork tubes and front wheel.
The electrical connections were pretty easy to figure out as they only connect to the right receptacle. The L-shaped connector goes to the black box under the triple-tree and the 2 loose wires connect to the horn. You will need to disconnect each turn signal to run the wires thru the top-hole on either side bracket. The headlight assembly connected to the lower hole on each side bracket and then you need to remove the bottom rubber pieces attached to the headlight in order to connect it to the frame mounts.
Once you jack the bike up, you can connect the front wheel using the provided axle and spacers and then connect the brake assembly afterwards along with the speedo sensor. Slather grease on the sides of the wheel hub prior to assembly.
Rear electrical is exposed. I used one of the vinyl cover pieces that came in the delivery and sliced length-wise to wrap the electrical connections and then wrapped in electrical tape and tied it up to the frame

Issues found: only one issue found and that was the throttle side mirror glass was broken. Sent a note to PSM for replacement

Initial maintenance performed before start-up: popped the tank off (2 bolts), removed the valve caps, spun the crank to TDC and set the valves to .04mm (tightened on a .05 adjuster blade which lets .04mm blade thru) I read that others have set tighter than this but i figure this is what i've set the Brozz and Titan to and they perform great plus the valves can only tighten up with time.

Start-Up: Added gas and cranked her up a few times and she started but then stalled a few times. The battery was drained very fast so i hooked up a jump-start to get her running. Fired right up with the jump and idled nicely. I set the idle down to a hair under 2k. Let her run a few minutes, then shutdown and repeated one more time.

First Ride: Well she feels nice and hefty, tall yet nimble. Nice power and acceleration. Throaty exhaust. Smooth on the road with the counterbalanced engine. I got her up to around 60mph and backed off. She will definitely benefit well with a smaller rear sprocket. The 6th gear is great!

Maintenance/Tech Plan: I plan to keep her under 7k until the 500 mile mark for break-in and plan to change the oil at around the 100 mile mark to Rotella 15W40. I still need to fiddle with the suspension settings as well.

Add-Ons: Installed bark busters

Planned Upgrades/Add-Ons: 42T rear sprocket. Fiddle with the carb to shim the needle and maybe increase the main one size up

More to come..

More pics

Installed the 42T rear sprocket yesterday and testes out. It feels much better geared now. 6th gear before had some good acceleration before but now is more of an overdrive. I hit 60 on the speedo at 6k rpm so 70 should be attainable. Any lower gearing in my opinion would be too much of a torque hit. Happy as is.

where did u find the 42T or what bike does the rear sprocket come off of. need to get alittle more top end
tia

Link to 42T Rear Sprocket: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068OC2T4...roduct_details

Link to Bark Busters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXVKMVJ...roduct_details

Changed the oil at the 25mile mark with Rotella 15w40.. and whoa thats a lot of metal shavings. Plan to change again around the 150 mile mark or so.

PSA: when the rear axle is tightened there is a drag on the rear brake that makes the rear wheel hard to spin. The remedy (thanks dslfrk) is to add a large washer on the inside left of the swingarm. see attached pic. this allows you to torque the nut to the proper spec and/or add a cotter pin for extra safety

yesterday that is what I used: A jack and a board.
And wished I had put more thought into making a stand for the assembly process.

Oh, thats what the free metal from the crate is for...

and custom panniers!

I use the same setup, and hang the handlebars from the garage rafters with tie-downs to stabilize the bike.

I did not have but barely 1 or 2 small flecks in screen at assembly oil change. As expected, at 100 mile oil change had a few tiny glitter specks in used oil, none in screen. Using same oil as you for break in on mine.

Update: went to the Virginia DMV on Friday and with only a small hiccup was able to register the bike. Since Zuma (listed on MCO as make) was not in the VA registration database, the agent needed to scan and send a copy of the MCO to Richmond. This took a couple hours but it got done same day. The next lucky fella in VA will have a much smoother transaction

Is that the original rear sprocket on the BROZZ?

No it's a replacement 42T rear on the Brozz

Nice write up, tknj99. I am running a 14-40 ratio and that is working really well for me. It runs just under 1000 rpm per 10 mph in 6th. Still works very well off road.
I tried a 130 main jet and that is too rich, runs better with a 125 main. Went on a long ride and hit reserve at about 100 miles and totally ran out 5 miles later. Lucky a local Dairy Farmer had a gas can and gave me a ride. Need to figure out how to carry more. I guess the reserve isn't very much.
Looking forward to finding some more power even though is goes very well. Really like the bike!

I'm guessing perhaps you may have been running with the petcock in the reserve position and really drained all of the gas and were lucky to get a couple ounces left for the remaining 5 miles. With that being said im wondering what the correct position is for reserve. Generally with the arrow side pointing down, that's reserve (handle side pointing up) but on my Titan it was the opposite. I'm running the Templar X with arrow pointing up assuming thats normal position. What position do you keep it in under normal riding?

Update: changed the oil today at 100 miles and 0 metallic shards in the filter screen, yay!
Here's a pic of the plug, i think it looks ok.. the bike runs great at all throttle positions, im at 600ft elevation. the only thing i notice is popping on deceleration.
I also started to hear a buzzing sound at certain rpm's but don't find anything loose, thats quite annoying, hopefully will figure it out.
Also, PSM mailed me replacement mirrors but ugh! they are wrong ones and look like something you find on a scooter! I emailed them to that effect and they are pushing back that the stock mirrors are out of stock and these round ones will work with my response being imagine having a Toyota that you needed replacement side mirrors and the dealer sent you something off a Chevy, cmon guys! I'm hoping they make it right,
will update accordingly

I guess I run the fuel petcock like you do. I just went out to the shop and studied out the fuel system and it looks like maybe reserve may just draw from the right side of the tank. A normal reserve draws from the last couple of inches of the gas tank but the Templar system is different. My RXB only goes a few miles before running out on reserve so I guess it didn't surprise me when the Templar did. I know I was some kinda shaking it as it started to run out and it would go a little farther 'till it didn't any more. I was looking at those 5 liter spare gas cans that lay flat or vertical on the rack. Has anyone used those and do they work good? Your spark plug looks good, gotta check mine after I rejetted.

Found the buzzing culprit.. was the exhaust heat shield.. (despite being tight).. removed it and will keep as is for now. Plan to uncork the cat at some point as well and would probably replace the shield afterwards to cover any unsightly weld marks

Update: PSM will be refunding me $15 for the mirrors which should cover the cost of a similar replacement set i found on Amazon.. good on them to again make it right after a few email exchanges

Saturday ride with my son

Wheel misalignment?
 

Hi tknj99. New here. So does this not misalign the rear wheel from center, or is such a small amount not a big deal? Have you found any other method to change the mount location of the caliper instead? I feel like I would prefer that in my ongoing build if possible.

how much drag do you see? i assumed they were getting some serious drag.
if you see just a little, then dont worry.... time will take care of it.... new pad will wear off, i think

It's a thin washer similar to the one on the outside so doesn't affect alignment but it makes a very big effect on drag. Before it was hard to spin and now much better; not 100% but like 80% improvement and the rest will work itself out with wear

So I've noticed a vibration between 40 and 60mph which feels like a wheel issue. I've trued both wheels as best as I can and don't see any high spots and pressure at 25psi. It's just an annoyance when I'm on pavement. The vendor claims it's normal and that lowering air pressure will fix but I know it's not. Could the wheels need balancing? Has anyone else noticed the same?
I also ensured that front rebound wasn't soft so it's not pogo effect causing it. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

I have now ran up to 70mph as indicated on speedo both on gravel:crazy: and paved with no noticeable/unusual vibe's. I am however running 20 psi and have swapped to a 40t rear with the suspension set pretty soft. But even before those changes I didn't experience any noticeable or unusual vibe's 40-60 mph.

Today i adjusted the valves to be in spec as discussed on the forum @.002. To do that, i tightened down on a .003 feeler and forcefully pulled out the feeler. That is the best method i've found to get at the correct spec. Started her up and she fired up immediately and seems quieter as well. Unfortunately, the reving sputter and die issue when cold still occurs, i'm planning on working on the carb next to address that

Update: had to order a replacement carb since i botched the removal of the tamper proof red-locktited screws (grind the heads off next time lol)..
Today i received the replacement Amazon carb and this is an exact duplicate of the stock carb with the benefits including: no tamper screws, exposed a/f screw, big idle turn knob, adjustable needle (as well as now having spare carb parts). The only thing extra i needed to do was pop on a vacuum cap on an exposed inlet. Installed with 42 pilot, 125 main, needle at middle position and a/f 3 turns out and its running like a champion

Note about the carb in the link: it says PE30 but its actually a 28mm carb as required

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...t_b_prod_image

Update: just passed the 500mi mark and done with break-in.. can now wind- her out fully (yay). also changed the oil..
with regard to the wheels feeling out-of-balance between 40-60mph, i've found that keeping the tire pressure above 30psi helps alot on the pavement, perhaps thats a sign that a balancing is needed - luckily a friend has a motorcycle wheel balancer with weights for next time i head that way

It's pretty easy to balance it yourself at home if you choose, you can get stick on weights that work pretty good at harbor freight

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_pcK6LfBwI

Orange is a great color for this bike. Those bark busters really look great on it. What a F-ing awesome bike we have. Incredible deal.

and we have ended up with a range of gearing:

If tknj99 has OEM 13T front, he is 13/42 now on the 6 speed
I have 14/49 on my 5 speed now (swapped wheels from the 6speed)
My 6 speed has the OEM front sprocket but the 39T rear 13/39
dslfrk comes in with a 14/40 on his 6 speed

ratios, sorted from tall gearing to low geared
6 speed
14/40 = 0.3500 (dslfrk)
13/39 = 0.3333 (thumper)
13/42 = 0.3095 (tknj99)
5 speed
14/49 = 0.2857 (thumper)

13/49 = 0.2653 (OEM)

I can see why 6th gear seems like an overdrive with 14/40 (dslfrk). You could go back to 13T front if it seems too tall. 13/40 = 0.325 which is about the same as my 13/39. (0.333).

I am going to put the rack on the 6 speed when PSM gets them in. It can be removed pretty quick for trail duty. Once I have it, I will decide on bags/luggage, or fabricate something. I can use it as adventure tour and carryall for shopping/errands. My orange 5 speed will remain the dedicated dirt bike. I already put a narrow TUSK DSport on the back wheel. It bites and holds like a shark. That will be the one that gets modified. :tup:
I just love the simplicity of that 5 speed engine.
I was looking closely at the Templar M. It seems very similar to my 5 speed Temp X, but with the newer version of the luggage rack. If I was starting all over, I would buy that bike ($1600 is more than $200 less than I paid for my 5 speeed TempX). The M is my top choice for off road now. Hands down... No need for 6 speed off road.

A pic from my ride.. also.. my son's horn failed recently and we found a replacement louder horn on Amazon. It came in a 2-pack so i figured what the hay.. went from a meep meep to a honk honk now :)


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NYCPX7B...roduct_details

rimlocks
 

You will have to add a LOT of weight to balance the rimlocks! You can remove the rimlocks if you want the wheels more balanced. They are heavy. Just no real practical way to balance a wheel with a rimlock on it. They are made to spin below 40mph in general.

Hmm.. never heard that before.. definitely worth the try, thanks for that info

Rim locks are for running at low air pressure while racing. They prevent the tires from spinning on the rim, which would shred the tube. Templar X is equipped as a raceable enduro. Those sprockets it comes with are made for running with close ratio choices below 40mph. It's really geared down 13/49 which makes sense for this setup.

It's also uncomfortably tall for most people. Same reason... Motocross/Enduro. Longer suspension travel and higher ground clearance. Even the tapered handlebars are flatter and wider than a dual sport. Templar is just a street legal Enduro.

I did not originally catch the OEM rims having rim locks pre-installed. I plan on mostly using the Templar X on the street. Not having used rim locks before, if I remove them do I need to find a plug for the hole in the rim to protect the tube or just remove the rim lock and leave the hole.


I was eventually planning on doing a tubeless conversion after the OEM knobbies wear out with marine 5200 sealant and sealant tape and switch to something like Shinko 705 for better matching my intended 90% street use. I wonder how the rim lock holes will affect those plans now =P


For those that have already assembled are the bearings pre-greased with a moly or a lithium complex? I take it the wheel axle bolts are bone dry. I need to sort out some grease purchases before the box arrives and assembly starts. If there is already grease on bearings I was thinking to up the grease quality to red n tacky for bearings and either green or marine for non bearing application.

You won't be able to do a tubeless conversion unless you find cast wheels (no spokes). But eliminating the rimlocks is no problem. You can put a thin head 3/8" bolt through from the inside to cover the rim lock hole to protect the tube from blowout. Tape it over as well (plastic electrical tape) with a few layers to blunt any sharp edges. You might be able to find a bolt with no hex head (round heads do exist). Hold it in with a nut for tire mounting, but you can remove the nut after filling the tube. It can be balanced with the nut there, or not.

Do the OEM rims have a raised lip in the bead area of the rim or are they completely smooth?

So today we miscalculated our fuel reserves and both the Brozz and Templar started stalling during our rides, and we both flipped to reserve. The Templar only went about 5 miles before bogging out and forcing us off the highway. I was able to have my son wait with my bike while i rode his another mile to the closest gas station and filled up. Luckily i found a discarded soda bottle in the recycle bin, shaked out all remaining soda and then filled with about .41 worth of gas.. enough for me to get the Templar started and to the gas station. So from completely out of gas to full she took 2.1 gallonns.
Keep this in mind if you ever start running out of gas that the reserve is very little on these bikes and the position for reserve by the way is arrow pointed DOWN.

Also.. upon cold start i decided to look closely at the intake manifold and found a sprinkle of gas puffing out ever time she would sputter and try to die.. i tightened up the bolts a bit more and will see if that helps the next cold start.. if not, it'll probably need to be removed and add some gasket maker to seal it better