2001 KLR 650 Refresh
 

before and after of some cosmetic changes I've done. Still LOTS more work/fixing to do. Some electrical things are still pending and I'm hoping to have it running by the end of the week if the parts arrive as expected.

I am going to purchase a heat gun and remove the graphics on the tank. Not sure if I'll leave it silver or paint it black. I'm not much of painter, so may just leave it. Besides, I'm likely going to upgrade to an aftermarket larger tank the long run anyway.

so, this week I dug into the electricals of the bike. wiring diagrams do little to tell you what plug connects to what. Chilton's manuals with B/W pictures don't help much either. :D

I replaced the main fuse holder and figured out my brown wire connection to get the headlight working. Not without a lot of head scratching though.

I got a new starter solenoid and installed that along with the main fuse holder. I figured that was the reason for the bike not starting without jumping between the posts. It didn't though, and I had a tough time figureing out the reason for my starter button not turning the bike over. I finally figured out that the PO had removed a starter switch relay and hidden the connector behind the front chain guard. Once I discovered that, there's a bypass to get around that. I made up a jumper wire and got that working.

Speaking of bypasses, the PO had bypassed the clutch/neutral safety switch. it had a jumper wire already installed and based on videos, it appeared to have been done properly. The other bypass was for the kickstand safety. the kickstand safety had been removed, but the bypass jumper wire was not done. I fixed that up too.

Once all these things were straightened out, I was able to start the bike properly.

You might ask why do the bypasses. basically, it's so that there's less potential issues to crop up when out in the back country adventure riding. I'm a bit hesitant, but understand the value-add. It might take a little time to get used to the process, but I think it will be fine. The safety nazi's are probably rolling over in their graves. :D

I also got new footpegs for the bike to replace the OEM ones. I received my new front tire and tube (including a spare tube) but have not installed it yet. I got a new rear sprocket, also not installed yet.

I'm waiting on a rear tire and tube. when I get that I'll change the rear and also install the sprocket. I'll do the front as well. I ordered a header cover (OEM used one). it will look a little better than the rusty header pipe. also have the radiator and new hoses on the way. I'll wait to swap all that stuff out at the same time. The radiator is beat up, but not leaking. I figured it should be replaced just to be safe. New clutch lever is pending as well. the current one works but is broken and can only engage it with two fingers.

I still need to order turn signals and a wind screen. And still need to get title/registration/plates too. Not sure if I'll have time today. perhaps next week.

I have to say, I've never been a fan of the kickstand and clutch bypasses. I know they're a popular mod due to generalized paranoia that these will somehow "fail" in the field but I own a KLR and ride the shit out of it, and everyone in my riding group also has their own KLR's and ride the shit out of those, and I have never, ever actually seen a clutch or kickstand switch fail in the field.


I would much prefer to know that my bike will not lurch me into a tree or a ditch or off of its sidestand if I space out and mash the starter button while in gear... I don't think it's much of a safety consideration; I'd rather just not annoy myself or dump my bike for a stupid reason.



If you want my advice, and you probably don't, I would replace your header pipe with one from a Gen 2 bike. The Gen 2 (2008+) header pipes are stainless from the factory and I believe it is a direct fit. They hold up a lot better than the Gen 1 pipes.

I'll check into the gen 2 pipes. I'd like to get an aftermarket muffler and could do those at the same time.

I hear you on the bypasses. the neutral switch was already done. the kickstand switch was missing the cable, so other than sourcing new parts, I just bypassed it properly. The start system relay was missing too, just not bypassed. easier to bypass rather than order another part. I have noticed stories like a stick going up through the kickstand switch and disabling it....stuff like that. I wonder if it's a good idea to carry the bypass wires just in case any of the systems goes bad. I get your point about it not happening much though.

took the speedo cable apart today. it's broke. explains why the speedo wasn't working. :(

I ordered a new one and also turn signals and a LED relay. I'm hoping by next week to have it on the road.

new tire. new winkers. new sprocket. :)

Shinko 705's?



Don't forget to check the cush drive while you have the rear sprocket off. I'll leave another tip in the tip jar: The outer rear wheel bearings are not sealed on the KLR, so when you have the rear wheel off is a good time to re-pack them with grease if you didn't already. One of them comes out with the rear sprocket carrier. The other is under a lil cap on the right hand side which you may have to knock out with a punch from the opposite side if it hasn't been removed in years/decades. Hopefully I did not just make you take the rear wheel off again...

Yes, they are 705s. not the greatest for dirt/sand/mud, but I plan on some street riding and hard packed dirt roads to get some experience on the bike before I do anything adventurous.

...and yes...you made me take the rear wheel off again. :lmao:

thanks for the tidbits!

I ran 705's for one tire cycle, including a few adventure rides. They are adequate for that use case, and believe it or not also do okay on grass. As you say, mud is their weak point. They do not shed wet mud very well. They are excellent on pavement, do tolerably well in loose dry dirt, and work just fine on gravel and similar. I think you'll do just fine.

I now exclusively run the E804/805 on my KLR. Just put a fresh set on the day before yesterday, in fact. (No, I don't know why the front and rear tires are different model numbers from Shinko.) I think this tire is one of the best kept secrets for the middle/lightweight adventure crowd, especially for the price. It does just as well on pavement as the 705 as far as I can tell, and is significantly more capable in loose off-road terrain.


If you're sick of the damn cotter pin on the rear axle nut every time you take it off, get yourself one of these:


https://www.autozone.com/trailer-hit...ack/207591_0_0


I got a pack of three at the Autozone Across The Street and they're much more easily removed and infinitely reusable. Cheap enough. I gave away the extras to my other KLR buddies.

I replaced the radiator an hoses today and got the fan wiring hooked up properly. Also changed the oil and added a charger connector for winter use. I took it out for a test ride and found some off Road near the house. Temp gauge working fine. Fan cycling on and off as expected. Speedo is next. Other than a windshield and crash bars i have it about where I want it. Looking forward to some ADV riding!

doohickey?

no clue. it's on the list to check out at some point. I suspect it was because there are a number of other mods that were done to it. don't know for sure though, so gotta check.

got the new speedo cable and installed it. everything is working as expected. I'll be sure to check the hub when I have the front wheel off for replacement, but for now, it's working fine.

I ordered a new shifter as the one that's on the bike appears to be rubbing against the engine case. likely slightly bent from a tip over. I also ordered some rear brake pads. the rear brakes are not still working as well as I want. I also ordered some thick aluminum stock to try lowering my footpegs. might have to use steel eventually, but this will give me an idea of fitment. A windshield will be next on my list. I like Parabellum, but someone suggested Rifle to me. I'll check those two out further before I decide.

so, I got a new shifter and replacement brake pads over the weekend. took me all of 15 minutes to swap things out. rear brakes are notoriously weak on these bikes, but they are MUCH improved. Shift lever is not rubbing the case and shifting is better too.

I managed to get a 50 mile shakedown ride in. The bike performed very well. This thing just feels so much like the hawk 250, but with enough power to move along very well. I managed to get it up to 70 and no wobbles or shakes. The speedo is 5 mph over the actual GPS indicated speed of the bike. it cruised along at a GPS indicated 55-60 with little effort and I'm sure it could run that speed all day long.

The bike felt good overall, but a few things that still need some attention. I need a wind screen to avoid the wind directly in the chest. I'd like to get hand guards as well, but that's not a necessity for travel right now. I am going to lower the footpegs and also try to move them back perhaps an inch. Right now the rear brake lever throw is quite long and the pad is low compared to the footpeg. this may help with that. (I bet the lever is probably bent a bit)

I'll continue to expand the duration of the shakedown runs to get more comfortable with the bike and ensure it's trip-worthy. Then I'll be doing some portion of the SCAR. :)

The rear brake pedal being low is typical of these bikes, and it is exacerbated if you install more aggressive footpegs, like I did, which are typically taller in profile. I have my pedal wound all the way to the highest point on it's adjustment and while it's better, it's still a little low for my comfort. I may just give up and make a spacer to clip to the top of the pedal to make it physically taller.


Lowering your pegs will definitely help with that. I think a lot of the perception of the KLR having "weak" rear brakes is the pedal height being whack, so riders are not necessarily engaging the rear brake in full when they mean to. I know I certainly wasn't until I adjusted the shit out of mine.


I'm sure I don't need to tell you that you can adjust the effective height of the brake pedal by loosening the nut on the bracket and screwing the threaded end of the master cylinder piston in and out.


A taller windscreen is on my shopping list as well, because I have confirmed that a bunch of the wibble-wobble and buffeting I get at highway speed is the wind hitting me which makes it tough to keep the bars straight (especially when you're surrounded by 18 wheelers). I'm torn, though, because I really don't feel like necking myself on the top of the windscreen when I'm riding off road. My bike is a Gen 2 which already has "better" wind protection and aero than your Gen 1 (not by much) so it might be worth the investment if you stay on pavement regularly.


You can indeed sit at 50 or 60 MPH all day on one of these bikes. I do so regularly. Mine will touch 100 MPH with a long enough runup, and made it to 112 once without exploding. They don't exactly leap forward if you open the throttle above around 70, though.


The Tusk handguards are a perennial favorite for the KLR, probably because they are effective but cheap (like KLR owners themselves). I have the same pair; on a Gen 2 you also need handlebar risers so you don't smack the cowling at full lock, but on a Gen 1 you don't.

There's two windshields I'm looking at. one is Parabellum. it's a bit more upright and ADV style. I'm 6 ft tall to begin with, so seeing over it will be no problem. That's also why I want to lower the pegs. My legs are just a little more cramped than I want to be for longer distances.

The Parabellum tall shield is 16 inches. The Rifle system is another I'm looking at. It's similarly tall, but the angle is farther back. Right now the Parabellum is the front runner. for one, it's cheaper, but also more the style I want.

So, today I was out putting around on the killer. when I got back, I decided to pull the trigger on the Parabellum windshield. it's supposed to arrive by Wednesday.

I also fabricated some peg lowers. These are just a prototype as they are made of aluminum, but plenty fine to test out. it's 1/4 inch aluminum plate. not sure it will hold my weight when I stand up for photo ops with Letsride. :)

Another shakedown run on the KLR. this time I took it out on the highway for about 50 miles. the parabellum windshield I added to the bike is perfect. no complaints at all. wind over the top hit in the forehead of the helmet. a bit of side draft, but not uncomfortable at all.

The bike did better than me at highway speeds. I feel a bit nervous running it at 4500 to 5k RPMs for that long, but the bike handled it just fine. I noticed the temp gauge crept up to a bit over half way but seemed to hold steady after that. I've not noticed it get that high on secondary road test rides.

just a few more farkles to add and the bike will be ready for an adventure!

The temperature gauge will bobble up and down with speed if you have not installed the "Themo-bob" mod yet. The KLR is somewhat notorious for running cold when at speed, and it has no coolant bypass hose for the thermostat so the coolant is not distributed to the radiator at all until the thermostat opens, and then once the heat is dumped the thermostat closes again and the cycle repeats.


The Thermo-bob kit is supposed to stabilize coolant temperatures and allegedly provides a longevity benefit to the engine but I'm not sold on that particular aspect. I haven't done it to my bike, I have over 20,000 miles on it so far, and I ride the shit out of it with no ill effect.


Earlier model years of KLR certainly do tend to burn oil above 5000 RPM (some claim that "all" do, but mine certainly doesn't -- it's a 2017) which is the only drawback to sitting at high RPM's. As long as there's oil in there, the engine doesn't care.

Mine is an 01 with 43k miles on it. no thermobob and it hasn't exploded yet. :D

installed rear crash bars after painting them green. I've received the front ones but not painted yet. Hopefully I'll get some time to paint them and get installed by next week. I will also be blacking out the tank and the rear carrier handles. Not too urgent to do those things though, so not sure when.

as you can see, I used an old tour master tank bag from my Concours days as a trunk bag for the KLR. Right now it's doing duty as I collect tools and spare parts for ADV riding.

I ran through the first tank of gas. got around 160 miles on the tank and didn't hit reserve. it's a 5 gallon tank though, so that means my MPG is only in the 30s. Certainly not enough for a 650 thumper. I'm not surprised though because one of the first things I noticed starting the bike is the choke is non-functional. I'm pretty sure it's running too rich with the choke engaged more than it should be. I'll be pulling the carb sometime soon and do a clean/rebuild on it.

I also bought the tank saddlebags off amazon and installed them. they aren't in this pic. Thank Zipkin for that lead. They are not anything great, but a nice little convenience. They also dress up the tank and blend in to the black theme of the bike. They claim to be waterproof, but looking at them, that's a joke. That's ok though. I can work around that part.

Overall, it's ready to and adventure. I'm still looking for some saddlebags. something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7QG8P6B...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I don't plan to do week long adventures at this point, and probably not even camping. The Smokey Mountain 500 is on my short list for a trip. I can stay in some cabins along that route. Iron Horse motorcycle Lodge, Smitty's Lodge in Tellico Plains, and Two Wheels of Suches in Suches GA.

The South Carolina Adventure Route is on the short list too. I'm not as familiar with that track, so not sure about places to stay or eat. It's a bit more civilized route than the SM500, so I'm sure there are places.

I'm gonna try to drag LetsRide along with me, but if anyone else is interested, let me know. I don't have a timeline planned for any of this so far...just wild ideas. :)

last night I made the decision to spend nearly 600 bucks for a rear shock for the KLR. It's a Progressive 465. There are very few shock/spring options for these bikes. None are a cheap alternative. :(

This is after I found a dirt area to play around and get used to the bike off-road. I hit some rather deep ruts and the rear suspension was bottoming out. I'm sure the shock that's on it is 23 years old, so decided on a new one. At the same time, I'm also ordering some new links, but rather than lowering, I'm raising the bike 1 inch with them.

I'll probably have to do the front suspension at some point, but for how, hopefully this will help.

Re: Fuel economy, the KLR has a 5.1 gallon tank (usable capacity, if you're careful) and mine will reliably hit 250 miles of mixed road and trails before sputtering out. That works out nearly exactly to 49/50 MPG.

Mail call! new links to raise the rear end rather than lower it. New rear shock by Progressive, new fork brace! Now I just need to find time to install all of it.

couldn't wait, so I started in on the upgrades last night. Really only took about an hour or so to get the new shock and the links on. I haven't gotten it off the table yet though. I found a small leak from an antifreeze hose, so going to take care of that. might require that I unbolt the radiator to get to the hose. I still have to fork brace to install too. Pictures of her butt in the air coming soon. :)

turns out my old links were lowering links and not stock. I was flat footing it before. Now I'm on the balls of my feet. The new shock feels nice too!

you can't see it well, but over the weekend I finally got the new front tire on the KLR. That gave me the opportunity to get my tire changing equipment put up and out of the way so I could straighten things up a bit in the garage. Notice my next project sitting on the lift. it's a little Tao 4 wheeler. it belongs to a friend's son. not running right now and not sure why. I'm going to do a little trouble-shooting and see if I can get it working for them. Also note, the big butt of the goldwing takes up most of the pic! :D