A Few Questions About The Tao Motor TRB7
 

I ordered one from Texas (I live in south FL), and it should be delivered any day now. I paid extra for it to be delivered fully assembled (in case there are any assembly issues, I won't have to deal with them).

If ordered fully assembled, does it come with oil already added? If not, anybody using synthetic oil from the get go?

I found the Manual online, but it doesn't specify a "break-in" period. Is there one, or have you kept RPMs down for a few hundred miles?


The Manual specifies a separate transmission oil change. I've never heard of such a thing in a small bike like this. So it is true? If so, Manual doesn't specify what weight oil to use. What is it?

Thanks for your replies! :thanks:

Congrats on the new bike. I hope you love it. The assembly you get from that Texas dealer may not be so good so I would check your new bike for loose bolts / wires. You need to check the oil BEFORE you start it the first time. I would change the oil that the bike comes with at around 100 miles. (Make sure you use a oil certified for motorcycles) I changed out that oil in my bike before I started it the first time. Don't use synthetic oil until the bike is broken in. I would put around 1000 miles on the bike before switching to synthetic oil. You can find good brake in info here or online. There is no separate oil for the transmission on these bikes. Welcome to the site.

One more question! What model number of Mikuni carburetor do owner's typically switch to for better performance? Or do you just need to drill it out and go with different jet?

Weird! This site says it has a reverse! https://offroadingpro.com/taotao-tbr7-250/

Manuals for these bikes tend to be wrong in all sorts of ways. I wouldn't trust the assembly, you'll want to go over it yourself. I'd dump the oil, drop in some cheap non-synth for the first few oil changes.

I've used the motoman break in for everything I own for over a decade and never any break in related issues.

Carbs for these are all over the place, my apollo came with about the crappiest nibbi carb I've ever seen. A knock off mikuni for $30 is light years ahead of the nibbi, however you're might have a decent carb to start.

I'd try shimming the needle up a bit, getting access to idle mix adjustment and starting there. If it's lean at WFO or you open up the airbox/exhaust start messing with main jets.. If you're at higher altitude, might need to drop a main size. Of course, if it's a crappy carb sourcing the right jets might be a hassle.. I'm sure you can find a legit mikuni, it'll just cost a bit..

Why not good quality, since it only takes about a quart?


That's what I was thinking, since it is a 2021 (I assume).
I already found one for $30. :lol:

I change the oil 3 or 4 times early on, hate dumping fancy oil through that fast.
Doesn't sound like a legit Mikuni, I think what you found was what they call a Chikuni.. might even come off the same assembly line.. probably fine.. the one I got is pretty nice.

Rotella 15w-40 works great for these bikes according to those who use it. I used to spend extra on a brand name motorcycle oil, the reason being that my TMEC spec'd 1 liter of oil and not one quart, and my local O'Reilly's carried it; I daily commuted my bike year round (33 miles round trip) so I figured the extra few bucks I spent a month on my oil change was some kind of piece of mind that I probably didn't need. I also ran 91 octane, again, because of the piece of mind I probably didn't really need.

Run rotella in everything, but for break in I use cheapest in spec conventional oil I can find... it's just going back to recycling anyway ;-)

Another question! I find in some places it says is a 30mm carb, but other places it says 26mm. Which is it?

I'd wait until it's in your hands to make that determination... vs. risking getting the wrong carb if you're looking to buy an upgrade right off. 'spec subject to change' and all ;-)

I will; after all, I'm not looking to ever ride it hard or balls to the wall full throttle. Just on back roads around town at maybe 45-50 MPH.

No need to get another carb. you can get jets for the stock carb. I actually just drilled my jet out. I used a harbor freight mini drill bit set. i just found a chart that says what drill size is for the the particular jet size. I figured if it did'nt work drilling I could just get the jet I needed.

I think it depends on the carb you end up with. The design of the NIBBI on my Z40 was crapola, the throat/slide design meant that off idle transitions were drastically abrupt.. okay for an experienced rider but my newbies hated it. The chikuni I replaced it with has a very smooth/gradual transition off idle, it's like a different bike now.

But definitely wait, see what you get and see if you can make it work properly before spending money on a new one.