Clash 200 efi stalling at stops
 

Only been 200 miles and my scooter is stalling at stops. My check engine light is on, blinks 4 times and im getting error code P0118 that doesnt seem to apply to air cooled engine. Anyone know what my problem/fix could be?

I don't know the meaning of that code nor do I have a code reader. On a hot day when mine was new the check engine light came on a couple times. Someone suggested it was caused by the engine temperature thermistor so I put a 100 ohm resister in series with the thermister and it did not come on again. Later I switched to a 20 ohm resister because the sparkplug showed it running a little rich. The resistor makes the computer read the temperature a bit lower.


May not have anything to do with your issue.

I just had my van running rough and stalling and threw a coolant temp code. I disconnected my coolant Temp sensor and was able to drive normally but without A/C. You might be able to do that until you can find another engine temp sensor. The computer needs an accurate reading. Ask your scooter dealer if they can get one. How did you check the code? I also have the Clash.

OBDII connector is under the center face plate cover between the headlights. According to the chat GPT AI bot, my problem is faulty intake air temp sensor.

It sounds very strange as the sensor is just a thermistor which is an electrical resistor whose resistance is significantly reduced by heating. As the resistance goes down with heat the voltage that is allowed to pass through the sensor to the ECU/PCM increases. P0118 usually means the ECU has detected a voltage level higher than it should be within design spec. But as you say if this is an air cooled engine, who knows where and what they are using the thermistor sensor connection on the ECU/PCM for.


The joys of EFI and all these sensors is you now have the whole kit as the potential for causing the one problem reading. It could be the sensor itself, it could be the wiring being damaged, open, or having become wet and corroding (if the ECU/PCM is set to throw the error on a no signal/high resistance reading as well as the opposite side of too much voltage), AND it could also be the connectors and connections on the wires and between wires and the sensor and wires and the ECU/PCM, or it could be the ECU/PCM module itself and finally it could be what the sensor was set up on the bike to monitor in the first place is actually malfunctioning or allowing so much heat through its triggering the ECU/PCM error code. So now you have to add in addition to all of the above a complete sleuthing as to what and why they would use that sensor connector on the ECU/PCM in your scooter, for this my best guess would be a engine temperature reading off of the top end of the motor rather than the IAF sensor as air intake is P0113 code. It makes more deductive sense to me as the scooter engines are usually housed away from direct air cooling by being hidden away in a housing. So there is another thing to check, are the air intakes that direct outside air to the engine blocked or restricted in the air flow now compared to when it was new?


Keep in mind I don't even know what your scooter looks like or how its designed, so you'll have to go over it and do the troubleshooting but the above information should give you enough of a decent war chest of what to look for. A simple DMM test on the sensor signal wire to the ECU/PCM can help as well. If its no voltage then its a broken wire or connector connection or the sensor is shot. If it has a voltage and you look up the sensor data sheet and find that the voltage you measured and wrote down is too high for normal designed output and the engine isn't even on or running and is cold then the sensor is shot and should be replaced. etc. etc. etc.



Now you know why some folks just go with carburetor. EFI buys you great cold start and off to the races starts in the morning and that is about it. When things go bad it becomes a much larger rats nest to diagnose the error codes and figure out what has really gone wrong as you are now troubleshooting the entire electronics and sensor and wiring and connector package in addition to all the mechanical engine parts as well.

In this pic you can see the engine temperature thermistor wiring on the lower left with the plastic around it for insulation while experimenting with resistors. The brass sensor itself is mostly obscured by the valve cover but it's right at the end of the fat white wire which is actually heat insulation. Very easy to unplug and unscrew with a 10mm wrench. Here is a link to a PDF manual for the EFI system used on Lifan motorcycles. https://www.google.com/url?q=https:/...b5oBNaRKwK33sw

https://www.chinariders.net/picture....pictureid=2181

Man, I *just* started looking at Chat GPT. I have always wanted to start a non-profit 501c and I hope Chat GPT is going to do it for me!

Thx mudflap, i was thinking the IAT sensor was somewhere else. My dealer shipped "A" part but my contact doesn't know the name of it. Just its "a sensor that will go on engine head". Oh boy!! Guess i have to wait to find out?

Have you tried to see if it will run with the sensor unplugged? EFI on a car will run on a predetermined scale(close to normal) if you unplugged the coolant or the O2 sensor. Might be good to know. I would unplug mine but still don't know how to erase the codes. Maybe disconnect battery for a while?

Well i recd the sensor from dealer today and it was just as Mudflap described. Hopefully this works. Should i disconnect the battery b4 i put it in? Or doesnt matter?

Disconnecting the battery isn't necessary to change the thermistor.

How do you scan for check engine light information 🤔??