Straight pipe valve adjustment
I straight piped my TBR7 until the new exhaust comes in and I was wondering what I should have the valves clearance set too? Some people say it shouldn’t hurt and some say it will. Please help!!
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If you haven't adjusted the valves, definitely adjust them ASAP. No change needed for pipe change. Exhaust gap 0.005 to 0.007", and intake 0.003 to 0.005" is all good (adjust when the engine is cold).
Edit... These gaps are too wide, should be closer to 0.002/0.003 (intake/exhaust), give or take 0.001" Some run these on the narrow side. I have erred on the wide side to be sure that the valves seal, but I know too wide can damage the tappet surface in the long run. |
I had just them every 500 miles I just wanted to know if I need to do anything different with a straight pipe
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Why a straight plpe they are so cheap,would sell you mine for cheap. TOO loud for no more power just removed cat from stock plpe, And very happy , loud and no lmprovement
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.005 to .007 inches is a lot too big... Were you meaning to say .05 to .07 millimeters instead? I ask because that is the proper sec range to be working in. Technically .05 to .08mm.
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That’s a good question. Also does it matter if you ride in cool country versus hot? Or does water cooled engines versus air cooled make a difference on one’s choice of valve clearance? Thinking out loud….
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ZS172-FMM-3A 249cc (Templar X):
This is an OHC engine, not pushrod. I set both at about 0.006" It gets hot (this blazing Summer), so I wanted to make sure the valves would close. Excessive, maybe, but I do NOT hear valve tappet noise from this head. I can probably close them up somewhat. High performance recommendations (Henner) are TIGHT (0.002"), but until I have at least 1000 miles on the engine, valves can "seat". And as I said, I don't hear valve noise from the head. Once I observe stable clearance, I will drop the spec accordingly. Keep in mind I am still under 250 miles on the bike! The TBR7 and Storm are both pushrod CG clone (ZS167-FMM 229cc). My son's TBR7 is getting more miles now. I will begin to close the gap on these as well. Neither of them make much valve noise, and it isn't like any of these bikes are operating under rpm conditions that could cause them to float :lmao: I am more concerned about making sure there is good oil in them and that they are not overheating. All three of them are running great! Power level is close to best possible without head mods, and they start instantly. |
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I was thinking that the rods are long, and since temperature causes a % deformation, any given % change of a long rod is absent from the OHC design. Both have rockers, no difference really there. Maybe the OHC design has less heat deformation (expansion), can be adjusted closer tolerance (0.002" Henner's recommendation on the 172FMM)
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