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Swollbraham 05-08-2016 11:39 PM

Hawk chain
 
I was not given a owners manual, also I can not find it on the Internet. Im replacing my chain and sprockets I went from factory 15-50 to 17-45, but my chain seems loose. Does anyone know the factory measurement and from where to take the measurement?

pcspecialist 05-09-2016 02:26 AM

MotoCheez used this on his Hawk: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZG7X14

Entropy 05-09-2016 02:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcspecialist (Post 215528)
MotoCheez used this on his Hawk: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZG7X14

My question is will that chain work on a 229cc bike when it's only rated up to a 125cc bike?

Adjuster 05-09-2016 05:59 AM

That 125cc rating has to be some sort of typo/error.


/

SeerAtlas 05-09-2016 07:57 AM

not really, the 428 is not a very big chain. get a quality one. *most hi pro 250's use the larger 520.

wilserchinarider 05-09-2016 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swollbraham (Post 215515)
I was not given a owners manual, also I can not find it on the Internet. Im replacing my chain and sprockets I went from factory 15-50 to 17-45, but my chain seems loose. Does anyone know the factory measurement and from where to take the measurement?

This article may help you.
http://www.cycleworld.com/2015/08/28...torcycle-chain

You want the chain reasonably snug but not too tight, a couple inches, say 1.5 - 2" freeplay up and down is what I would do...

Curious, why are you replacing the chain? Removing a link is not that difficult is your stock chain is too long with the new sprockets.
http://tkmotorcyclediaries.blogspot....ster-link.html

Mudflap 05-09-2016 09:35 AM

There are 125cc motorcycles that produce over 40 horsepower. A good quality chain like the 428 size RK or DID will handle the Hawk's massive horsepower, no problem.

Swollbraham 05-09-2016 11:22 AM

Yeah I planned on roughly 2inches, just wish I could track down the OM thanks guys!

Swollbraham 05-09-2016 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wilserchinarider (Post 215543)
This article may help you.
http://www.cycleworld.com/2015/08/28...torcycle-chain

You want the chain reasonably snug but not too tight, a couple inches, say 1.5 - 2" freeplay up and down is what I would do...

Curious, why are you replacing the chain? Removing a link is not that difficult is your stock chain is too long with the new sprockets.
http://tkmotorcyclediaries.blogspot....ster-link.html

I don't think the factory chain is very good quality kinda like the oil and speedometer. After changing sprockets I noticed the chain had to much play and with only 70 miles on the bike it scared me but I took a few links out and went for a test drive, I think the back left slider was a tad loose it caught the chain and snapped it. And I was stranded a few miles away from home. So I decided just to replace it with a D.l.D chain. They have never failed on me in the past. Also I'm just a litte bias with those chains.

Torgo 05-09-2016 06:04 PM

For what it's worth, from the RPS Owner's Manual, page 42:

4. Turn both adjusting nuts the same amount of turns until you have reached the correct slack. To tighten the chain, turn the adjusting nuts clockwise. To loosen the chain (provide slack) turn the adjusting nuts counter-clockwise. Adjust the slack in between the drive sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket. Move the bike forward, stop and park it on the side stand. Recheck the slack, it should allow vertical movement by hand: 9/16 inch (15-30mm)


From my own experience, I now believe this. I didn't think this was correct from my ancient dirt bike experience and everything else I read. However, it also demonstrated to give the owner's manual the benefit of the doubt over the internet. When I did my first adjustment - I set a little extra slack, 1-2" because that just seemed more logical. I quickly found out that wasn't a good choice. Chain jumped, cracked my front sprocket cover (17t front, so no space), and carved up the rear axle area a bit. Luckily it didn't break, and it's been holding up good enough after getting readjusted to spec.

I do think you'll want to err on the side of tightness if you stay with the stock chain.


They have a couple of pages dedicated to maintaining the chain in the owner's manual. Here's a link if you didn't get a paper one included:

http://therps.net/User%20Manual/Hawk...s%20Manual.pdf

Swollbraham 05-09-2016 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Torgo (Post 215637)
For what it's worth, from the RPS Owner's Manual, page 42:

4. Turn both adjusting nuts the same amount of turns until you have reached the correct slack. To tighten the chain, turn the adjusting nuts clockwise. To loosen the chain (provide slack) turn the adjusting nuts counter-clockwise. Adjust the slack in between the drive sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket. Move the bike forward, stop and park it on the side stand. Recheck the slack, it should allow vertical movement by hand: 9/16 inch (15-30mm)


From my own experience, I now believe this. I didn't think this was correct from my ancient dirt bike experience and everything else I read. However, it also demonstrated to give the owner's manual the benefit of the doubt over the internet. When I did my first adjustment - I set a little extra slack, 1-2" because that just seemed more logical. I quickly found out that wasn't a good choice. Chain jumped, cracked my front sprocket cover (17t front, so no space), and carved up the rear axle area a bit. Luckily it didn't break, and it's been holding up good enough after getting readjusted to spec.

I do think you'll want to err on the side of tightness if you stay with the stock chain.


They have a couple of pages dedicated to maintaining the chain in the owner's manual. Here's a link if you didn't get a paper one included:

http://therps.net/User%20Manual/Hawk...s%20Manual.pdf

Thank you for tracking that down. Yes I always error on the side of caution with my chains. In my experience a little to tight is better than loose. I'll deal with premature wear if any on my chain and sprockets. Then having a chain slip going 40 plus mph and it tearing up the bike.

Also I was already going to change the chain. Once I got the bike I could tell the chain was cheap. Which is expected. There is going to be cheap factory parts for any new bike under 3 grand

Kdburtch 05-11-2016 01:11 PM

Are there any cheaper but still good chain options that you have used?

Swollbraham 05-11-2016 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kdburtch (Post 215920)
Are there any cheaper but still good chain options that you have used?

I've always used D.I.D chains. Just the standard goes for about 40bucks. Never had any problems. For the hawk I used a 428 130 D.I.D standard I put 30 miles on since seems to be working great. I'll update after a 100+ Miles.

Azhule 05-11-2016 01:26 PM

I have been using UniBear for several years now, and I just ordered one for the Mrs. Bashan WILL200 a week or so back, was only $17 or so with 'prime shipping' for a 136 link 428 X-Ring chain from UniBear/Amazon :) ... I had to cut several links off to fit our bike but I didn't feel like counting the links on my old chain and our book was no help in how many links on the stock chain :hehe:

pcspecialist 05-11-2016 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule (Post 215926)
I have been using UniBear for several years now, and I just ordered one for the Mrs. Bashan WILL200 a week or so back, was only $17 or so with 'prime shipping' for a 136 link 428 X-Ring chain from UniBear/Amazon :) ... I had to cut several links off to fit our bike but I didn't feel like counting the links on my old chain and our book was no help in how many links on the stock chain :hehe:

I'm not finding the 428 X-Ring in any length.


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