Not the best fix but seems to work...
 

So I've been battling this issue with the chain rubbing the frame when the shock decompresses:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psrbozbscx.jpg

This is a really poor design on these "Peace" models. The chain is on the inside of the swing arm where on the Linhai models, the chain is on the outside of the swing arm so it doesn't rub anything.

Eventually the chain is going to rub a hole into the frame. I cannot seem to find a stiffer shock that won't decompress as bad as the original.

On my Tomos TX-50, the shock was either busted or weak and the muffler would rub the rear tire:

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psxcwwzvin.jpg

Luckily I found this shock on Ebay with the same eyebolt to eyebolt length which is much stiffer and prevent this.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psg6bmltfd.jpg

So the only thing I could think of to do on the Peace ATV was to replace the rear shock with a 12" long turnbuckle with 3/8" eyelet holes. I used some flat washers to center it.

I adjusted the turnbuckle to where the chain does not rub anything.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...pskysiaqep.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psosrfyuq6.jpg

Both ends of the turnbuckle does move up and down a bit..

You would think this the ride would be harsh but because the rear shock compresses so much, the difference in the ride is not that much different.

The shock was pretty much bottoming out anyway. I'd still like to find a stiffer shock if possible. I realize this bike as not designed for an 160 lb adult and an 80 lb child...

If the suspension was bottoming with a child, a stiffer or longer shock is wise. That said, most dirt bikes have the very symptom you describe. They usually have a chain slider that wraps around the swingarm pivot point. It's a sacrificial part that requires periodic replacement. You could fashion one out of UHMW.

that link is going to fold up in very short time....


...

Actually we have been all over the fields and the turn buckle has yet to snap. However it does create a harsh ride and I'm still on the search for a stiffer shock.

I pulled one of the shocks of my parts ATV. I thought it was good. I sat on the bike and it barely compressed but when I bolted it onto the running bike, it bottomed out as soon as I sat on it.

My guess is the angle of the shock/spring has something to do with it. I don't know if that makes any sense or not.

Well actually my daughter is too young to figure out the controls so she sits in front of me while I operate the controls. So yes, I'm sure we are exceeding the weight limit.

I'm wondering which of these might work best at keeping the chain from rubbing the frame:

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/HlsAAO...9i/s-l1600.jpg

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pMgAAO...SG/s-l1600.jpg

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/OpcAAO...WdC/s-l500.jpg

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/yeoAAO...WdB/s-l500.jpg

My pick would be the second picture. The first one relies too heavily on perfect sprocket alignment, whereas the second is wider than the chain and is more forgiving. The third pic is of a chain guide that attaches underneath the swingarm and will not help what you're trying to fix.

This is what I had in mind:


http://www.fiddyparts.co.uk/image/ca...5c-600x600.jpg

That piece would help the chain rubbing the swing arm but most of the rubbing occurs on the frame when the shock compresses (eg: hitting a large bump).

Trying to figure how to attach the teflon roller unit to the frame is going to be challenge. I might be able to use a couple of U-bolts and wrap the roller guide around the frame.

The frame appears to be ferrous material because a magnet will stick to but where the paint has rubbed off, there is no rust so it make me wonder if it's some sort of alloy or "dirty" aluminum.

When I mean "dirty aluminium" sometimes aluminum will have traces of steel in it. I used to work in a lab at my job and one day I placed one of those aluminum sample pans on a magnetic stirrer and it rotated. I asked my lab boss how aluminum could possibly be magnetic and he said they were most likely made from scrap aluminum that had traces of steel in it.

Apparently steel will somewhat mix with aluminum but only in small amounts.

I'm afraid to weld on this frame. Normally my welds hold up but when I tried welding that axle back together, it's as if the welding wire did not stick very well to the metal the axle was made of and it broke while knocking the wheel on to the hub.

I'm sure I've posted this before but 14 seconds into this video, take a look at the chain guide I made for this bike:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMjlW_uFjbQ

The chain kept flying off it when I'd hit a bump so I found this piece of Teflon at work and fabricated a bracket to bolt onto the swing arm where a flare used to go. It's worked pretty good. I have lots of this scrap Teflon material that was left over after they rebuild our washers. I just have to figure out some way to attach it to the atv's suspension.

If you can fabricate a piece of Teflon that is 90 degrees, there's nothing stopping you from drilling two mounting holes in the side of the swingarm to mount it. The chain could ride along the top and never contact the fasteners, because they would be horizontal.

turn buckles are intended for tension loading not compression...

try alliexspress for a shock..

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