Hawk Rectifier
 

It looks like my rectifier has gone bad. Everything checks out, but, the voltage is too low when the stock headlight is on. No problem now that I have a 5 COB LED, but, I still want to replace the rectifier.

Which rectifier would you recommend? Is there a Honda/Kaw/Zuk OEM one that will work?

I wish the forum search engine worked better, I know this has already been discussed, but, I can't find it.

Mofset one off a yamaha sport bike. Id recommend a used one off ebay. Read forums were people order kits and the rectifier is a knock off. 2009 - 2014 yamaha r6 or r1 have the newer skinny ones.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB18WtlJ...15-GRIZZLY.jpg

The rectifier is bad? I thought a rectifier rectified AC off of the flywheel gen set to DC., and that a zenor diode then turns the current above +/- 14v into its platform, and dissipates the excess current as heat. Which is why it has fins on it. I was under the impression that a diode (like in the rectifier) either works, or is blown. Have you checked all of the grounds? ...ARH

Right now only half my rectifier bridge works so it can only support 1/2 the wattage.

I'm not finding any posts discussing it.

I know you shouldn't use a Hawk's rectifier in a TT250 because the TT250 is higher wattage, but, I'm struggling to think of a reason why I can't use a TT250's in a Hawk. Can you think of any?

OK, that makes sense. Perhaps the standard one is of marginal capacity. If so, maybe there is a bigger (more capacity) one available for a bike with a bigger alternator output....ARH

That would make the TT250 unit a plug and play upgrade from the sounds of it. Assuming it is a higher capacity unit.

I would personally like to relocate the reg/rec closer to the battery. Shorter run of wires all around, lower resistance. Where it is situated on the frame under the tank toward the front exposes it to engine heat a bit more than I would like.

You can do it to any bike. Dont keep using those crappy chinese rectifiers. Just google mofset rectifier swap or yamaha rectifier swap. Its been done to countless bikes.

Ive done it to two of my bikes. Hyosung gtr650 and hinda vfr.

'09-'14 are the best. You can go older but theyre a lot bulkier.

Different bikes, but pretty much the same.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...er-swap-14380/


http://www.stromtrooper.com/maintena...#/topics/60842

https://youtu.be/tvhaOHUjy3g

ok, I got one pulled from a 2009 R1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/132003673748

and, after much consideration, I purchased a connector kit (I was considering normal spade connectors and then hot-gluing them, but, I don't know how well hot-glue would hold up with the engine heat)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232155567732

Yup. FH012 or FH020 rectifiers. Dont forget to add an inline fuse or a reset breaker like in the vid. Also add a thicker guage wire from the negative battery post to the frame.

Always best to go with sealed connectors. I'd redo all connectors with them.

I might even follow Megadan's advice and relocate it.

These run cooler but its always best to have air flow on them or mount a 12v fan on them.

Mosfet units run a lot cooler. They can generally get by in a non direct airflow path, as long as there is enough airflow to vent the area they set in. That said, for reg/rec life, the cooler the better. Don't take what I said as advice, just something I would like to do.

I can't make sense of the wiring to the existing R/R. Green and Red go to the battery, Pink and Yellow to the Stator, but, the Black one goes somewhere else. What the heck do I do with the black wire?