new hawk 250 issues
 

Good evening and thanks in advance for any assistance.

I purchased a brand new hawk 250 that arrived yesterday. I paid the extra to have the bike put together by the company selling it so that it was "ready to ride" when arriving. Unfortunately it has problems.

First issue: I changed the oil first with some good oil. But there is conflicting instructions. Many people say to add a quart and look to make sure it is in the middle of the sight glass, the manual says to use the dip stick. I am confused as to which to use. If it is to be at the middle of the sight glass I need to add some more oil because I see it in the bottom of the sight glass, but its not in the middle. However the dipstick is about correct. How do I know if I have the right amount of oil?

Second issue: Running the bike, it did not want to start. would try to run but would die. I needed to turn on the choke to get it to run. Which automatically when form Full choke to no choke? Does this bike really switch over by itself or was this a fluke?

Third issue: This bike smelled awefull!!! it had smoke pouring out of the exhaust. it really smelled bad. like the rubber was melting or something. Why this awerful smell?

Fourth: The exhaust pipe off the head turned bright red. I have never seen something like this before. Why is the pipe so hot, and what can I do about it?

Fifth: On the exhaust, there is a connector coupling? that connects the pipe from the header to the exhaust pipe. This was really loose and smoke was coming out of it too. How tight is that supposed to be?

Sorry for all the noob questions. I really appreciate any assistance. I am good with my hands and tools (residential and commercial maintenance), but never touched vehicles or motorcycles. I so want to ride a bike, but don't have much money and thought this would work out well, now I am scared I'm way over my head.

Welcome aboard.
#1 Check the oil level while the bike is vertical and not on the kick stand. Half way of the site glass is correct. 1 quart is about right

#2 You will need to adjust the idle speed. Big screw on right side of carburetor. Choke is manual. Just a fluke
#3 dont panic, This is normal for the 1st time you start it. It's burning off oils and paint in the exhaust.
#4 These carburetor are tune very lean from the factory. You will need to rejet and tune the carb.
#5 Tighten the clamp up.. You will need to check this often.

Jerry hit it all, but I will add my 2 cents to the oil level.

Go with the middle of the sight glass, which is right around 1.5 quarts on my 2017 Hawk. I have been running this level of oil for 1800 miles with no issues. :tup:

Also, to tighten that exhaust clamp, put a long screwdriver through the hole on the thumb screw to snug it up. Just hand tight will come loose again fairly quickly. Then check it regularly. After a few snug ups it will stop coming loose as often.

Thanks Dan for clearing that up. I'm trying to type this up on my phone. Lol

Also, check the valve lash. Doubtful that the assembler set that. Do you know how to accomplish that? If not, we can walk you though it or you can see it on youtube. dude named motocheez.

oh yeah welcome to here. what part of the world you reside?

Yep, I forgot that one and so did Dan.:p

Welcome to the forum! Like pistolclass said, watch MotoCheez videos on YouTube. Keep us posted!
Have a great day!

Thank you for all your replies. As for the oil, so go to middle of sight glass and forget the dip stick. Do I want middle of the glass while running or idle? (pretty sure its idle, but hey, better to ask) do I run it first to warm it up then check or check it stone cold? (honestly don't got a clue)

How do I adjust the idle screw? while running I imagine, but when do I know its good? when it stays running and not dieing? or am I looking for something else?

great to know that its just the smell is normal, was seriously concerned about that....

How do I rejet and tune the carb? Is there a youtube video or a website with instructions? and how soon do I need to do this? I am asking because I get my house in three weeks and it has a garage. Until then I am in the hotel and so limited to what I can do in a parking lot for now (just got stationed back in the good ol USA). If need be I wont turn it on until I get in the house, but if possible, I would love to run it a little, even 20-30 min. but if that will damage, or there is a chance it will, I will wait.

What is a valve lash? I have never even heard of that.

I am in mid Missouri.

Thanks again!!

Silly question, the glowing red exhaust pipe off the header, if I let it run too long is that going to melt or explode?

I did a search for valve lash, the guy was measuring the space between the valve, but said it should be done after break in at around 300 miles. Because of the red pipe, should I do that earlier (now)?

It won't melt or anything, but it's a sign that the carburetor is jetted too lean. Lots and lots of bikes do this. I have had two Yamaha WR450F's, one carbureted and one fuel injected and they both did it as they came from the factory. If yours glows red from just idling as my bikes did, the pilot jet is too lean. I don't have a hawk, but many here can steer you on how to clear up the jetting issues...very easy to swap out carb jets. One thing about engines is they like some things to be done in tandem. The jetting issue can be made much better, but to do it properly means to also address the choked up exhaust as well.

Middle of the sight glass while it is not running (EDIT: With the bike vertical, not on the side stand)

Also, I didn't forget the valve lash. I just wanted to give somebody else a chance to throw forth some knowledge... I swear! :lol:

As far as the valve lash. Set it now. That waiting until break in is a bad idea. Why? Because as the engine breaks in the valve stems stretch a bit, so that means less clearance. Your red exhaust pipe and idle/running issues are likely being caused by one or both valves not seating fully.

Set the lash on the loose side, sau .004 inch. ntake and exhaust, and after a couple hundred miles check the lash. Adjust if needed, then go another couple hundred and check it again. At that point you can set the lash a bit tighter, minimum is .002inch. I have mine set at .002 intake and .003 exhaust currently. In the hotter months I go to .003 intake and .004 exhaust

Yeah, me too. :lmao: Sorry I didn't answer all the questions last night. was busy watching the World Series. GO ASTROS!!!!

To adjust the idle turn the screw clockwise to increase and counterclockwise to lower idle. Once it is warmed up you want it to idle at about 1500-1600 rpms. But without a tachometer you will have to play it by ear. You can invest in a digital cluster later on as you will find the stock cluster is way off and the odometer is in kilometers.
Another thing that will help with cold startups without having to go out and buying jets is to adjust the idle mixture. To gain access to the idle mixture screw you will need to remove the carburetor and remove the black plastic tamperproof cap. it will be between the bowl and intake manifold. For a good start set it at 1 1/2 turns out. This will improve idle on a cold start. You will also need to shim the needle with 2 small washer. This due to there are not grooves in the stock needle to move the clip to adjust the needle. I know at this point you are probably saying "What the ___ is this guy talking about?" lol Motocheez has a YouTube video that will explain and clear this up. Don't worry, you will get plenty of help around here. No question is a stupid question. We all started somewhere. You will be an expert Hawk Mechanic in no time.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34yYWSolKc0

Don't worry, you are not in over your head, as any problems that come up have already been discussed (sometimes to death!) right here on ChinaRiders Forum....ARH