Noob questions on Hawk forks
Just got my new Hawk together and have been buzzing around the property while I await the MCO. Fun! :)
I was getting the front bottoming out and the tire rubbing the fender during braking. Changed the fork oil (10w) and added spacers (9 nickels). It’s definitely better but still getting the tire rubbing the fender some. At 230 lbs I suspect This will need some more work. Questions: 1. When I retightened the drain bolts at the bottom of the forks after changing the oil, they will would not fully tighten as whatever they thread in to feels like it is rotating within the fork. What do these thread in to and how can I get them tight? 2. Could I loosen the pinch bolts and slide the forks down an inch or so to get more clearance for the front tire? The forks look like they go down another 3” of travel, but as I’m inexperienced I don’t know if the position of the forks in the brackets must be kept at the factory setting. Thanks!!!! |
The top of the fork tubes should be level with the top of the upper triple mount. The forks are slid up that high for shipping. Support the bike under the front frame/engine area, and then loosen the triples up. The forks can then be slid straight down until the top of the fork tube (not the top of the nut, just the top of the fork tube) is level with the top of the upper clamp. Let me know if you have any problems or questions, and I'll send over a picture of my triple for reference.
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Those are not drain bolts, they hold the damping rods. Take the caps off the top and remove spacers and springs. Then shove a broom handle down in there to keep the rod from spinning while you tighten the bolt. An impact driver might help but don't get carried away with it and snap off the bolt.
And your forks are in shipping mode, loosen the pinch bolts and slide them down to the top of the triple tree like this. |
We really need a sticky about "shipping mode" and "drain bolts". Because this is a common mistake newbs often make. And Motocheez needs to delete that fork oil video of him doing it wrong. There aren't any drain bolts and everything including the oil needs to come out of the top caps.
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Wow you guys are awesome! Yep definitely in shipping mode, that makes a lot of sense. Will adjust and tighten those bolts. Do I need to remove my new fork oil to do the broom handle trick? Yep, I watched the motocheez video for the fork oil change.
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I totally agree with one legged rider! I fell victim to motocheeze’s suggestion about the “drain bolts”. It was the biggest PITA to get those bolts tight again. I ended up getting it done with a broom stick but it took a while and was pretty frustrating.
He needs to delete that video. I too have seen many posts about it here and on Facebook. I can’t really think of a good reason to keep the video posted. |
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Sounds like the collective wisdom of the forum has put another rider back on track!
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Hey guys!
Sorry for the "drain bolt" mis information, I never have a problem doing it this way, (proper way is to remove forks of course) it is a "shortcut" and when I do get a dampener that spins, I use an impact, or rap on the allen with a hammer to jar the bolt to tighten it. If the spring is inside the fork it also helps. I will try and add a note to the video! Keep on Hawkin! |
I didn't even have to say anything. Minimum effort! lol
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That being said, with great power comes great responsibility. I personally would delete the entire video and make another showing the procedure done properly. As a certified tech I know a few shortcuts myself but wouldn't want newbs attempting them. JMO Again, thanks for the great content and keep those videos coming! :thanks: |
Got the dampener bolts tightened down with an impact driver and set the forks to the correct height. Feel really dumb about the fork height, it rides so much better now. Lol! :doh:
Thanks again guys! Never would have purchased this bike without finding this forum first and knowing I have this great resource. :thanks: |
No worries, just send the check to frankdmaze@gmail.com :lmao:
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