Break in period
 

OK so how long is the break in period and how exactly do you break it in?

****Im not advocating that this is the proper break in procedure, it it just how I did mine****

I personally did mine like this:

-Change oil immediately

-Start the bike, let it idle up to temperature (About 3-5 minutes, you dont want to overheat the engine) and let it cool down

-Change the oil and clean the screen

-Start the bike again, and ride it at a low rpm WITHOUT lugging the engine. (So just drive it where it feels easy for the engine to move the bike). Use alot of engine braking to slow the bike down. Do this for about 20 minutes or so. You should be rolling up to half throttle, and then rolling off to let the engine brake the bike.

-Let the bike cool off for an hour to a few hours if possible.

-Start the bike again, and ride it pretty much how your going to ride it. Just avoid winding the engine out too far. Drive conservatively. I did this until my odometer hit 200km

-Change the oil again

- Drive conservatively until your odometer reads 400km, now getting higher in the RPM range.

-Then let it rip! :) (I would also change my oil at this point, but it probably inst necessary until about the 800km mark).


Like I said, this probably isnt the right way, but its how I did it and my bike is running great. Be sure to adjust your valves before even starting the bike, it might sound like a chore, but its worth it.

I hope others will chime in on their break in methods.

Basically, dont break it in like this ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRpxRPjVEvI

General rule for break in:
Change the garbage oil immediately.
Nothing over 5000 rpm's for the first 500 miles, varying the throttle, no high sustained speeds, change oil after 500 miles.

Some manufacturers require a longer break in periods like my Q did.

i may open a can of worms on this one, but i am a firm believer in this method... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !

Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.

and the reason why it works?

The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !! If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

An excellent point also! Especially in two strokes, seating the rings is critical and happens quickly. "They" (who is "they" really?) also say to decelerate from higher RPM's when slowing down and use your brakes less. This creates vacuum in the cylinder to expand the rings. This helps with seating.

I have a buddy who is an air-cooled VW freak, and he advocates this method.

Seat the rings, remove any machining dibris. Run machinery through normal ranges paying attention to any noise and sounds. Fix any anomalies. Warm and cool cycles help heat and expand the metals, and help with seating the gaskests etc. Check critical bolts and screws. Check cable routings. Smile like hell.

Everything incremental.

How you do this is entirely up to you and your comfort level. I have read numerous accounts on proper ring seating techniques. Some say drive it like you would and no special treatment for break in. Some say take it easy.

The main thing to remember is the basics. Ring seating may not be as crucial as in the old days due to better machining and material standards. The theory is that under load the rings will not rotate on the piston and will find a steady state to wear to the shape of the cylinder.

Heating and cooling cycles "season" the block/metal parts as new manufacture metal still has "crystalization" or forming of the metal molecules during the first heating and expansion. This incremental warming and cooling helps the metal remember its shape and thus less chance for leaks etc.

Changing the oil removes any machining or assembly dirt and debris. Use a mineral based oil for this process, not synthetic.

Check bolts and screws, because who knows what kind of day the guy putting it together was having on that day. Lube cables and moving bits. Wash and wax to preserve paint.

I don't know if Evelyn waxed her Storm, but the gas wrecked her paint a bit. My bike spilled gas, but I was waxed, and my paint is fine.

Most of all just enjoy the thing. Smile and take pictures.

one other esoteric comment. newly cast cylinders, and other bits like often contain localized metal distortions and stresses from the mftg process.etc.and then when assembled and torqued down, have additional stress patterns introduced to the metal. It's why torque numbers are Important. now, as the engine is warmed, these introduced stresses try to equalize with each heating/ cooling cycle eventually reaching a relatively stable state which is why master performance builders choose older engines to blueprint for max performance, the machined/designed tolerances are more reliably retained.

Also, the initial cylinder x hatching helps maintain reserves of oil on the cylinder walls as the rings/cylinders mate as it were.:)

Lots of opinions here so here's mine. During my many years as a motorcycle mechanic I've never seen any problem caused by any type of break in. Piaggio did a study of different methods and concluded it makes no difference how you do it or if you do it. The blurb in the manual said, "During the first 600 miles, do not insist with a fully open throttle." If in doubt, follow the manufacturers recommendations.

Mud, in general. I'd agree BUT, I have witnessed factory racing mechanics build and "break-in high performance mc engines in their shops/labs and dyno testing their efforts in almost real time. The ensuing engine smoothness, and output were clearly discernible to eye/ear and dyno instruments.

That said, the effect on real world production bike performance and longevity might not be 'huge', but one likes to think being careful is doing some good. I've seen a few mistreated bikes fail early. cars too, an airplane, disastrously so. (no, weren't mine:)

Engine builder Smoky Yunick (RIP) set me straight.

I agree. ;)

LOL, that myth was bound to show up. There is a hellofalot more to engine/motorcycle break in than rings.

Ok read all the posts... Excellent advise. My conclusion: Pull wheelies for proper break in. :tup:

Yup, immediately after start up, bang it off the rev limiter to heat it up, engines like being warm right? Heating it up faster must be good! :D Then proceed to downshift into first from 50mph. The excessive engine speed causes the parts to fit better. :D

...and let's not forget! The oil it comes with is "break-in oil" and needs to be kept in it for the entire break-in period! ;-)