Single largest upgrade for these bikes
 

Single largest upgrade you can do to these bikes is a carb swap as most of you know. I dont know what the story is on the factory ones but my 2020 magician was so lean from the factory it wouldnt start if the gas tank wasnt over half full at least. I went ahead and did an air box delete, genuine keihin 30mm but some wonky jet kit sizes are way off so i thot id list gor other pz30 users. Mines not knock off but the jet kit was so wamp wamp.
Keihin pz30 108 main and a 42 pilot 55mm k&n filter (airbox delete) i believe the needle is on the second highest setting 1 knotch above middle
Air mixture stock setting and idle is cranked up a quarter turn
San diego 60-1000ft average
Also slip on ebay muffler st8 shot 17/45 gearing

Hard to disagree. If I had to pick 3 simple upgrades to get the most out of the engine for the least investment it would be a de-cat, carb/jetting, and 4 degree timing advance key. If you also own a dremel and have the confidence the next two would be a basic port job and a thinner steel head gasket.

Yea definitely agree! Im going to wait on the port till the bikes broken in and then rebuild the top end with a new gasket ive heard just a new gasket can make a noticeable difference. The timing suprises me tho that in your top 3! Ill have to look into that!

I definitely agree !! I could almost hear my piston top melting with the factory jets. Lol

Carburetor 1st

I'd say rejetting the carb 1st, 2nd either replacing the exhaust or removing the catalytic converter from the stock exhaust, 3rd was sorting out the suspension (new shock/spring and fork springs/fluid/etc), 4th tires.

I take mine off road allot, and with the stock suspension it would buck and kick over even small whoops , now i can blast though them. So getting the suspension working was almost as important to me as power upgrades.

I never started my new 2021 TBR7 with the stock carb,stock exhaust or stock valve settings.

I could only shim the needle and unscrew the pilot adjust until I got the main and pilot jets, (about $20 for two kits). I rejetted pilot 34 to 38, and main 105 to 115 a couple of days ago. Also set the pilot screw at 2.5 turns out after the pilot jet swap. This was on top of cat delete and exhaust drilling.

I rode two night in a row after the mods, and I have to say that I am amazed at the difference :clap: It is like the engine has woken up. Low end and midrange are much more responsive and willing. Top end is solid now-accelerates to high rpm quicker on the road! And this is the OEM "YouALL" PZ30 carb! I am glad I didn't bother to replace the carb. It just needed rejetting and would have had to buy jets anyway.;) But then ANY replacement carb would need the same:)

I also mounted knobbies to take advantage of the enhanced performance. NICE! Accelerating wheelie out of a sliding turn is challenging fun and dialing up a wheelie on a bump on the way up a hill is FUUUNN! LOVIN' IT!

The jetting is important enough that we started a chart.. this should be the same for all the cg230 engines and give you a good starting point: https://tbr7.com/upgrades/fuel-system/

0Wow thanks for the chart ! I am still trying to dial in my carb and i ran into some weird stuff today. I hadn't ridden in a couple of days so I started my bike up ended up having to use a spray of starting fluid and once it started it idled and ran fine and then I played with the choke and noticed my chok it does absolutely nothing on full choke there zero change in RPMs. Only thing I could find on this was that it might be so rich that adjusting the air with choke does nothing but it also said that it should start fine that you wouldn't need the chok if that's the case. And that wasn't the case today maybe just cuz it was cold but I would like it to start up without having to carry around a can of starting fluid. So is this too rich of a carb? Is it a bad thing to be too rich and do you guys have any advice also would upgrading the electrical battery and starter help this problem because I know that's when he did have great as well

Don’t use starting fluid,wd-40 won’t hurt it. Do it all of the time,but you shouldn’t have to. More like dirt in carburetor or plugged line.

If it runs too rich for a long time it will eventually wear out the rings and cylinder. That's why efi engines outlast carburated engines (no choke)

If is really this rich at idle I'd expect you'd be mentioning black smoke coming from the exhaust especially after in ran a few minutes, or how the idle speed screw had to be turned in so far. However, this is an easy test. Fire it up, let it idle 5-10 minutes with the choke off, turn the key off, go inside and drink a beer (optional). After its cooled off (the bike, not the beer), remove the spark plug. Note the color. If it's really black it's idling rich.

Since most of us here like to think of ourselves as gearheads if you post up some pics, we'll all look at it and gawk, and it'll give us something to look at. Lol. You might get 10 opinions, some may even be right.

Ok i will do that! Just figured out how to post things that arnt teeny tiny. Ill try to get some links of pics and exact carb.
Also havent adjusted my valves yet just foubd out gotta do that first.