Well, the Shark has made its arrival.
 

Besides various stripped out bolts, stripped out frame holes,throttle grip wont get tighten enough to not move with those crappy phillips screws, and my plastics having scrape marks, everything went together pretty decent. Bike looks good, going to fire it up sometime this week after i get the brakes adjusted, and some holes in the frame retapped. I seriously need to to replace those junk phillps screws that hold the throttle grip and the electric start assembly on.

Congratulations on the bike....ride safe be smart and make memories!

PS.....don't ever forget - just like your issues putting it together....the adventure never really starts until something goes wrong....that's part of the thrill of this lifestyle and riding CBs.....great memories!

congrats, looks good!

Looks nice have fun

Those junk Philips screws are probably not Philips screws ,they are more than likely JIS ,and are slightly different .Using a proper screw driver helps a lot .They used to be made out of butter ,but due to budget cuts they are now using "I can't believe it's not butter "

Took the first ride yesterday. Throttle cable, and idle screw were the only adjustments i had to make. Clutch was fine. I replaced those crappy screws on the throttle grip with hex heads.. Much better. Bike ran awesome, seem to have plenty of power, and took hills with ease. Anybody else use 20w 50 to break in their motor? Is it ok to be running 55mph at 6000 rpm for long period of time on these after break in?.... I am a noob at these single cylinder motors.

I would use the recommended 15-40 rotella oil. Also, you want to avoid constant rpm's as much as possible during break in. I know that's hard depending on the roads you may be on.

I already put the 20w 50 in it. I have some people telling me to use 15w 40, then others saying the 20w 50. So after i break this in, these bikes can hold speed at 6000 rpm without killing the motor?

I don't know where you are located but here in South Louisiana temperature get in the 80's and 90's So I use 20w 50. I run 15w 40 in the winter when the temperatures are a lot cooler. Yes once the motor is broke in it is safe to run 6000 rpms.

Good looking bike! :tup:

Even with the correct screwdriver, a China JIS screw can make you sad. I took a few screw samples into the local fastener shop and bought handfuls of stainless socket head cap screws; that allows me to carry a few allen wrenches, rather than a JIS screwdriver.

Thanks! Yeah thats the route im taking too. The gear box on this thing feels a bit janky too. 2nd is kind of hard to get in there sometimes. Im hoping this is a break in thing for the gears and it gets smoother. Anybody else notice this? Ill have more pictures up here soon with it completely finished.

That could be as simple as clutch cable lubrication. I recommend a cable luber. I use Maxima Chain Wax on my cables.

Great advise as always, W&G. :-)

Also, make sure it's properly adjusted as well as lubed.
See this link. It's for the TT250 but it should be basically the same:

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/Articles.asp?ID=298

Most CG motors I've had usually hate to find neutral at a stop but have always shifted well.
The clutch may seem a bit chattery on occasion, especially when new, but after what I've put my Rhino clutch through, I have no doubt about its durability.

The engine will change in character a lot during the first thousand miles, that includes the gearbox.

Awesome, thanks for everybodys help. Yeah, I've only put 3.5 miles on it. Basically took it out, and made sure it ran good. The digital speedo seems to be about 2 - 3 mph faster according to my gps. No big deal. I'm really enjoying it so far. The real test will be when i hit the trails with it. I need to put together a tool bag to take with me. Whats the main tools to include is what im investigating now.