Stripped Oil Drain plugged
 

I got screwed by the guy I bought my bike from. He stripped the oil drain threads and left the drain open. Bike is a 22 BD-125 grom clone.

Is the original drain bolt a m12x1.5? Not sure about the length.

Do you guys recommend a self-tapping oversized drain bolt?

And what are your thoughts on this

https://www.amazon.com/Heli-Coil-554...s%2C193&sr=8-7

I've used a "Sav a thread" kit before but that didn't have a helicoil tag you had to break off. I'm worried about that falling into the engine. Unless I can leave it on?

All help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

I'm not familiar with your drain pan. Helicoil might be an option. I've always hated the metal-to-metal cross-threads and strip-outs. I feel for you. I would be concerned with how much thread is available for tapping it out bigger or using a helicoil.

I've used this type of plugs with limited success on various engines in my lifetime:

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group...83307034&psc=1

You would have to size your oil drain to the rubber plug. And then I would keep an eye on it for the first few months. It may also buy you some time for a more permanent fix.

Have you tried a self-tapping oversized drain bolt? They seem to be extremely easy to work with

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Regretfully, no I haven't tried a self-tapping drain bolt. Not knowing how thick the threaded area is.....it would be worth a try. Even if it doesn't work, you'll still have other options.

I didn't mention it, but I was thinking about Alumiweld. If you are really good with your hands and a propane torch, you could use this as a last ditch effort to build back the metal.

RE: https://www.alumiweld.com/

For the price of a self-tapper, it wouldn't hurt to start there and continue to more agressive fixes.

I would go with the helicoil, having used many of them over the years. Never had one fail. I've tried a self taping drain bolt once, and it worked OK, but that was in a steel oil pan.

Helicoil for sure. The good news there is that the coil is steel, so it should be quite a lot harder to strip next time vs. the original aluminum.


If I were you I would run a rubber gasket on the head of the drain plug afterwards, too, since the Helicoil might not be 100% liquid tight.

I put wheel bearing grease on the drain plug threads. I never change crush washers. Haven't had a leak for decades in many different vehicles. Wouldn't hurt to do both of course.

Hi everyone just in case anyone has a problem in the future this ended up working for me—a single oversized piggyback m12 by 1.5 with a copper gasket. So far working great with no leaks and the fastest solution.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBYXWFK5...7XVH5XQ9M6KEJX

Also thanks everyone!

Oversize Self-Tapping Oil Drain Plug
 

My wife had one of these on her old 1973 Ford Torino, with a 351ci (I think) Cleveland V8. Worked great. If I remember the story correctly, a mechanic at the Ford dealership stripped it out, and that was how they fixed.

Never leaked a drop!

I tried a helicoil copy that came with drill, tap, inserts, and was not pleased. The metal of the case(SG 250) was so thin it was easy to get the tap cockeyed even after drilling to the next size to clean up the damaged threads.
I ended up taking apart as the 'tang' broke off and fell inside........ it ended up being on the floor of the pan, so it would have been alright.
Doing it again, I would tend towards drilling and tapping to the next size up without using any insert. The insert inside was all wriggly after installation, which may explain the 'lean' of the drain.
I even considered using the rubber plugs that squeeze down to seal.
It was stripped when I bought it, and the PO was insistent upon trying to get it to thread, so stripped out even more...
not fun.
tom