Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan
My only concern for a fuel gauge is if the 1/4 tank indicator is accurate, but even I would be a little irritated if it read full for so long. By the time it reaches the level you see as full, that's somewhere between 3/4 and 1/2 full. How much bending did you end up doing to get it accurate?
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I'm pretty sure my float is just flawed due to the winding wire around the pc board that the metal contactor travels on. The windings are not evenly spaced and leaves allot of room for getting various ohm readouts and different positions on the float travel. when I first got my bike, it never read full on the cluster. I tore into it then to find out that the travel of the metal plate on the wound wire needed to go further to lower the resistance so the gauge would read full. If you noticed on my float, I bent out the stop tabs so my float travel would be more and that also got me the lower resistance value of about 11 ohms so my cluster would read full. That was just luck in doing that. Back then I really didn't try and adjust the float to full to empty with respect to transitions of gas level. On this fix. I made sure that I will get the 1 bar fuel pump flash when the float gets low at the 64 ohms. It took allot of test trys to get it repeatable by bending the wire. The wire didn't have to be bent very much. A little goes a long ways on my setup. if the wires were wound better on the pc board of the float, I could set the float range a little better. I just didn't go that far into it. the transition from 3/4 3 bars to 1/2 two bars will be pretty short I think on my bike. Its all about that resistance on that float. As long as my float is not touching the tank, I'm pretty sure I'll get consistent readings down to the 1 bar flashing pump trigger point and still have gas. What I did notice is that the float has more room at full than down to empty as the tank gets narrow. This thing is touchy.