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Seeing the internals of the microsquirt as compared to the aliexpress ECU gives me much more confidence about switching to it. The build and soldering quality are much better and most importantly to me, it has a hardware filtering circuit for the trigger coil built-in. The wiring loom also has much longer, higher quality, labeled wires.
The only place that wasn't electrically noisy and had enough space to hold the ECU was where I had installed the fuse box originally. I moved the fuse box to right in the 90 degree corner of the frame, where the front-half meets the back-half, right below where I mounted the relays. The ECU didn't completely fit without modification - I had to cut off the four mounting tabs on the case and secure it with zip-ties. I swear zip-ties have helped me more in the last few months than duct tape has throughout my whole life. There really isn't much space between the bottom of the seat cushion and the top of the frame bars where I mounted the ECU. I had to butt the ECU right up against the little pillar the holds the screw for the battery hold-down, I had to cut off the little plastic pieces that on the real grom hold spare fuses.
I'm going to try my best to separate the power wires from the signal wires; I'm going to run wires for the lighting, fuel pump, R/R, ignition coil, wideband controller, and injector on the right side of the bike, and keep all of the lower voltage sensitive signal wires on the left side. I'm going to have to find a way to move the R/R to the right side of the bike, as it is now it's right where the sensor harness will be.
I had previously purchased an automotive ignition coil, GM "truck" coil (acdelco part# d585, gm part#10457730) to use when I installed the microsquirt. Well, the time is upon us and it was installed. The old ignition coil was RIGHT next to the TB and probably would have caused interference. I installed the gm coil on the right side of the bike, using the nuts on the frame that originally held up the air filter. The coil hasn't really moves that much farther away from the TB, but the whole bike's frame will be in-between the coil and the TB and sensor harness.
I took the wiring harness that came with the bike and un-did all of the electrical tape and soldered all of the points where they used a crimp to join wires. If done properly, crimping wire ends together works very well and will be very reliable. However, this is a Chinese bike, and we all know that the wiring on these bikes is sub-standard. I didn't bother to remove the crimps, I just flowed solder over all of the wires and the crimp together. Taking the wiring harness to pieces also lead me to find out that the connector that plugs into the 125 engines and tells the dashboard what gear you are in is, except for the neutral wire, is just one miniature wiring harness. The wires go from the connector on the 125 engine, to one of the dashboard connectors, to the dashboard. So, if anyone swaps in an engine without a gear indicator and doesn't want that connector just flapping in the breeze, you can take the harness apart and remove the mini-harness completely and tuck the wires from the dash behind the headlights.
The next amazon order will be things for the wiring harness; insulated battery post, heat shrink, waterproof connectors, crimp tool for said connectors, and braided metal sleeving.
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