Quote:
Originally Posted by RedCrowRides
For the question about Grom clone wheelies :
First off ,you will be amazed at how much these bikes pick up in performance once completely broken in at about 300 - 500 miles, over how they feel when brand new and under 50 miles on the clock.
Secondly, again it is amazing how well these bikes respond to aftermarket carbs and exhausts ,the stock carb is so lean and the stock pipe has a cat built in and is ultra restrictive that replacing them really wakes the bike up even more so than years past.
Some people do run a 14t front sprocket in order to add a little extra low end grunt for stunting but this will have a negative impact on top end speed if that is a concern,I run my stock 15t and I'm fine.
YouTube has plenty of Grom clone wheelie vids using stock motor ,with carbs and pipes only .,Amari drummer has a near bone stock Vader here :
Maybe one day i will actually use my GoPro 3 and make a video of me on mine, i figure since the battery has been in the charger for about six months since i bought the GoPro used off Ebay its prolly ready to use lmao.
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Dude I can't agree with you more RedCrowRides on how these bikes pick up on performance and smoothness with shifting and acceleration/decceleration after break-in!!! Mine is still not totally broken in but I can already feel it shifting and finding Neutral easier, plus it seems to have a little more and definitley smoother power that makes it almost a completely different bike Versus when I first got it off the delivery truck a few weeks ago. Mine Has about 80 miles on the clock and I think at between 60-75 miles I took it for a ride one day and noticed it had some more mid-range power and was feeling smoother on shifts and I was like NICE!!
I still have a ways to go on break-in, maybe another 100 miles before the first manufacturer reccomended oil change (which is supposed to be at 300KM = about 180Miles if I read their Chinglish correctly!) So I am hoping to unlock a little more power!!! My engine break-in I have done so far almost exactly to the manufacturer's specs of keeping it at 30MPH or below and varying the engine rpm by not letting it idle for longer than it takes to warm up and going up and down thru the gears and even if I leave it in 4th gear i try not to hold the throttle steady for more than 1 minute at a time tops but usually it's more like 30 seconds is a looong time for me to hold the throttle/rpm steady--I'm sure you can hold your RPM steady for a lot longer than I am and still be fine but IT IS RECCOMENEDED to "vary your engine rpm during break-in". I feel like my engine break-in and following the bike maker's guidelines is going very well so far since I have already noticed a marked perceiveable increase in power and smoothness.
Also I know there are countless different opinions on break-in procedure, mostly the main debate is whether to ride the bike hard--"like you stole it" during break-in which some people say gets you slightly more performance----OR ride it to the manufacturer's reccomendations the first 500 miles and keep it at 50KMH(50kmh=31MPH) or below during that time and change the oil before your first ride and then every 180 miles for at least the first 3 changes then you can lengthen the intervals to something like every couple thousand miles after your engine is broken in(I dont have the book in front of me to quote the BOOM manufacturer reccomended oil change intervals after break-in right now). My thoughts on this are follow the bike maker's guidelines if you want to make your bike to be as reliable as possible for as long as possible because EVERY SINGLE major Japanese CHinese and German motorcycle manufacturer reccomends the same thing for the first 500-couple thousand miles which is to not go above about 50-60% of the bike's RPM--counting the redline as 100% so if the Vader for example redlines at 8300RPM, then don't take it above about 4000-5000RPM during break-in (I also don't have the exact manufacturer reccomendation for break-in length for the BOOM VADER in front of me but I THINK it's something like 600-1600miles) A good question is WHY DO ALL THE BIG BIKE MAKERS RECCOMEND VERY SIMILAR, NEARLY IDENTICAL BREAK_IN PROCEDURES? The answer is simply they warranty their bikes and don't want customers coming back in the first thousand miles with a broken bike that runs wonky because the rider wrung it's neck every single ride from brand new --which FOR EXAMPLE can cause the brand new valves/valve seats/springs/shim to not seat properly in it/s seat at the head, which lets improper amounts of air by that valve and ruins the bike's starting,idling and performance characteristics---AND THEN the bike maker would have to dig into their pockets and pay to fix all these bikes that were abused which causes the bike maker to lose money and therefore profits blah blah blah. The big 4 Japanese companies use very good materials and have very tight clearances and very low tolerances so although that does make their bikes run better and be high performance and all that, it also means if there is a very tight valve clearance for the bike to perform so well--if the valve doesn't seat right and messes with the valve spring which causes the valve to be in the wrong place entireley against where it was designed to be even a slight distance could mean hitting the piston and scoring the piston, bending the valve and the whole valve assembly--heck maybe even throwing the rocker arms and camshaft out of whack in an extreme case--then you need a new valve/valve stem/valve spring/rocker arm/cam shaft and maybe a new timing chain or timing chain tensioner or maybe just fix the timing by adjusting it...
Anyways to get back from my rant of what might be an extreme case, the fact of the matter is the bike maker says take it easy the first 500-1500 miles (give or take depending on your specific bike) so that all the new surfaces can seat and mate and polish each other properly. If one of these moving parts that is very close to another part is going to hit something and cause a problem, then it is most likely to happen when the bike is brand new, when the surfaces havent mated, and polished each other to the very tiny and exact measurements that ARE VERY SLIGHTLY different on each diffeent VIN number of the same exact bike. When the bike is new and you ride it thermal expansion happens and the parts aren't worn at all so the parts are as close to each other as they ever will be (until something fails/breaks/warps and ends up where it shouldnt be) and that's why to take it easy on a new bike during break-in.
SO these companies don't want you to break your bike, because then they have to pay to fix it under warranty, which is why they have break-in procedure--It is also important to note the bike maker says don't exceed (in the case of my 2018 BOOM GEN 1 VADER) 50KMh (OR 30MPH) during break-in and vary the RPM, BUT they also don't want you to crawl along at only 10MPH or less the entire time!! A Very SOFT break-in can also be bad for your bike, especially if you only ride it at 10MPH the first 1000 miles then immediately start riding it 100+MPH--the bike will maybe not be ready since the parts were not pushed hard enough to fully mate and polish each other during the VERY SOFT break-in and therefore things like thermal expansion might happen at such a large scale in this case after you start riding 100MPH that the moving parts MIGHT end up hitting each other and cause some sort of catastrophic failure!!
Another reason to take it reasonably slow during break-in is that if there is a defect or damage on part of your motorcycle like say a damaged but not broken wheel bearing or rear wheel hub if it's going to break (before it wears out an breaks 10,000 or 100,000 miles down the road or however long the part is SUPPOSED to last) then it's probably going ot break right away or soon after you start riding the brand new bike during the first few hundred or couple thousand miles--AND if it's something like a hub or wheel bearing that COULD cause your rear wheel to lock up, THEN it would be SOOOO MUCH BETTER if you are only going 30 Miles Per Hour and following the Manufacturer's Break-In Versus the "Ride It Like You Stole It" mantra going 100MPH.
Anyways, sorry to rant--I agree with the wise RedCrowRides, as usual, in the fact that these bikes get a lot better starting a good ways into your engine break-in and they continue to perform better and smoother until the engine is fully broken in.
I hope the break-in helps with your WHEELIES!!! Ride Safe and have fun!!!
One last thing to note is the stock Vader is very, very similar to both the SSR Razkull and in some ways the Honda Grom--both in looks, parts, and even performance. Heck the SSR Razkull even shares the same PZ20 carb with the Boom Vader, for at least some years, the ONLY difference with the carb being is that the SSR dealer is more likely than the online Boom Vader dealer to properly jet your carb and do other PDI stuff like change out the shipping oil for you, setup the chain to the correct slack, make sure the chain tensioner and wheel alignment is good, etc. SO..IF you do these adjustments to your Vader yourself and maybe even get a new carb/jets/intake/exhaust and pull up to a bone stock Razkull or Grom, then don't be surprised if you can keep up with the more expensive bikes or even pass them!!!