Some side notes of other things during my major maintenance shenanigans.
The chain tensioner I added to the bike is essentially shot. The roller was definitely worn, but what makes it useless is the arm itself that holds the roller and adds tension. It wore the edges down where the pivot is located and was starting to go cockeyed. This is entirely due to the distance between the roller and where its shaft connects adding a lot of angular load to the arm. If I were to do it again, I would consider flipping the installation around to get the arm closer to the roller.
Valve adjustment: Intake was fine, and the exhaust was within spec though just barely. I set them at .06mm intake and .07mm exhaust. I like these specs as they are tight enough to keep the valve clatter to a minimum, but are not at minimum spec. either, thus allowing a little more leeway for service intervals (roughly 1000 miles between checks).
One thing worth doing is to periodically check the grease on the swing arm pivot and shock bolts, especially if you ride on dirt. After 1000 miles the lower shock bolt and spacers were gritty and the grease was almost solid - the upper was fine. The swing arm pivot was also getting dry enough that a tiny bit of surface rust formed on the pivot bolt in a couple of spots. I cleaned everything up and then re-greased it. Do not neglect these areas of your bike if you want a long happy life out of it.
Installing a zerk on the swing arm is definitely a worth while thing to do, and will be something done to the Brozz swing arm before it is installed.
I also checked the steering stem bearings/grease, and they were fine. My Fork oil was pretty nasty, so I drained it and used the last of my current quart bottle to add fresh fluid. Seals were fine, but I did use my seal cleaning tool and found a little bit of grime in them.
I also completely removed the chain and gave it a very very thorough cleaning with a brush and some kerosene. This is probably the cleanest the chain has ever been lol. I then sprayed it with my favorite Pro Honda white graphite chain lube, let it dry, and wiped off the excess. All of this is so much easier to do with the chain off it is almost comical. Set my chain tension to 40mm of slack at full droop, which is almost spot on perfect to meet the loaded tension spec of 15mm.
I went over all of the motor mount bolts, and found the upper rear mount plate bolts a bit loose. I have always had an issue with these guys, even on my last Hawk. I installed some serrated flange nylock nuts in place of the originals. All the rest of the bolts were still tight.
With both wheels off I decided to clean the heck out of them. WD40 and a shop towel is amazing for getting off brake dust from the rims and the spokes. Then following it up with a wash of the rims to keep dust/dirt from sticking to them (left the spokes alone for rust prevention reasons) Checked the wheel trueness and checked/tightened all of my spokes.
I also cleaned the brake rotors with a green scotch brite and some brake cleaner, and them removed the brake pads, cleaned the calipers and all the other hardware then cleaned and re-greased the slide pins. Brakes now work better than ever.
I also went over all of the wiring and connectors to check for any wear from rubbing or corrosion. Found nothing, which makes me a happy camper.
With all of this said and done, it was a full weekend, but now the bike is ready for the rest of the year and beyond.
Yes, I am this obsessive about maintenance with all of my bikes.
