I dont bother with a torque wrench on the oil drain bolt and go by feel, staying on the conservative side, ie i don't over tighten it. As long as the washer is good you shouldnt need to tighten much. One thing that i used to suck at that i've gotten better at with time is learning not to over-tighten bolts, i used to go that extra ugga-dugga and then kick my self later when i was dealing with a stripped nut which ruins the day for sure.
For most things though i do like to use the torque wrench when there is an accurate and specified value for the application.
Funny story about my first torque wrench experiences.. i bought an torque wrench that has a 10 ft/lb- 80 ft/lb spec... and made 2 boo boos.. first was when i used it to tighten the hydraulic fluid drain bolt for the rear axle on a Honda Fury which called for 8 ft/lb's if i recall.. i set it to 8 ft/lb and kept tightening but never heard a click and was like hmm.. ok.. and kept going until i realized something was wrong.. luckily i didnt strip it too bad and later realized that the spec range means you only use it for 10 ft/lb's and up, not for anything under 10 ft/lbs
second oh f moment was when i went to do a valve adjustment on the same bike and researched the torque spec for the locking nut. cant recall what it was now but say it was 20 ft/lbs.. for some reason i got the bright idea to verify that it was in fact at the 20 ft/lb's already from stock and set the wrench to 20 ft/lbs and cranked it... turn, turn, no clicking and then it starts spinning faster.. ugh oh!! i stripped the lock nut, couldnt do the valve adjustment and in the end had to get the bike towed to Honda dealer to replace the valve adjustment screw and locknut and then i had them finish the job..
sometimes we have to learn the hard way
