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Old 07-25-2021, 01:23 AM   #15
OBrienx   OBrienx is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 30
my bad you never know. you should be good on what you said about the engine check over. just the oil in it doesn't do anything literally and will score as it doesn't create enough VOC at the friction bearings (yes i found this out the hard way) no matter what your going to go through 3 jugs for two oil changes and it would break in better with that diesel spec oil you have and wouldn't dislodge so much scored material. iv heard to seizures on these engines from the stock oil is the only reason i brought it up.

also getting a half slip exhaust will make jet changes much better vs taking the tank off and such to pull the carb. the spilt pip can be taken off the front and the carb area is fully accessible.. if your going to do mods and test jetting a lot this is a nice addition to these bikes. Also you only have to remove the tank bolts and the two seat bolts and two bolts at the front then fuel line to shut off to pull the tank and such its not too bad but the plastics dont have to be removed just leave them attached to the tank thats what i do anyways and it protects the bottom outlet port for the fuel line also from kids that like to knock stuff around like mine lol.

stock carb jetting is a weird one and jets you cant even buy ... a 112 main 39 pilot keihn jets if im not mistaken but both jets you wont need likly especially if your going mikuni as the jets are different. i have starting good starting points for jetting for keihn PWK and mikuni VM26 carburetors for these bikes just the needle clip you will need to test and change mostly to your altitude. your most likly going to use second from the top or middle needle clip position if you are asking for a suggestion.

if you dont have tools modifying that stock carb is going to be impossible as its disabled from factory literally its not a fluke theyre done like that for a few reasons. Emissions and to prevent a overly lean condition causing a early warranty. get some good oil and 93 octane fuel and break it in best you can till you get tools and the new adjustable carburetor. sucks but i did say to grab and install the new carb when you do the bike as it would be ahell of a lot easier. you will prob only need the tools you where given to assemble the bike other then to get the bowl drain plug off the new carb. changing the carb isnt a huge huge ordeal but after assembling and entire bike lol i would be snoozing on the carb install for a day or so. Dont worry though youe bike is ok just hte stock carb does this from factory and its irritating if you dont change it 10 out of 10 rides your take lol. just bite the bullet have a few more coffees then normal and attack the carb swap and try the jet settings i suggested most places that fix bikes have these jets in stock as almost every mike can use any carb practically speaking of course.

i remember how frustrated i was the day i did my bike.. and not alot of answer to the same questions your asking for this bike specifically.. ill watch your post bud if you need anything let me know.
__________________
2013 Apollo 250RX

-Zong db36 233cc engine w/ titanium valves, ported exh.
-WizeCo 11:1 piston
-CRF230 Athena big bore cylinder
-Powercore 788 Exhaust
-HF K&N Pod Filter and intake
-1/4 fuel lines and valves w/ plastic tank
-HR handle bars and MX pully controls
-CRF230 SHOWA fork
-Oversized MX brakes & rotors
-17T 46T (3.07 Gear ratio) JT Sprockets with a D.I.D gold MX chain
-Keihin pwk30 30mm carburetor 115main/35pilot


 
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