Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan
The choke is a black lever on the left side of the carb (as you are sitting on the bike). It's a bit of a weird location as you have to reach up under the fuel tank a bit to get to it.
The stock carbs have Tamper Proof screws that hold the bowl on and a cap over the idle mixture. There are two ways to solve this issue.
First method - using a dremel tool or a hacksaw blade you cut a slot in the center of the bowl screws so that you can use a flat-blade screw driver to remove them. This gives you access to the jets and floats. Then you can tune the main jet (pilot is bespoke and not easily changed but is usually sufficient anyway). The cap needs to be removed from over he idle mixture. Removing this cap is necessary in order to adjust said idle mixture.
For anybody that lives at lower altitudes the stock main jet and idle mixture are both lean. This is part of the reason why it has such a hard time cold starting. A 105 main jet and 1 1\2 turns out on the idle mixture is generally a good starting setup that can be tweaked a bit if needed.
The downside to the stock carb is that the needle is not adjustable. Usually they need a shim to get the mid range fueling dialed in a bit better.
Second method - get a whole new carb from Amazon. Like the stock carb it will need jets and the idle mixture set. Luckily for you there is enough collective knowledge here to get you setup and running fairly well with maybe a small adjustment needed for your specific bike and climate. I am personally a big fan of the Mikuni clone VM26 "30mm" (looks similar but has 4 bowl screws and usually use mikuni jets). I like them over the PZ30 just from my own experience of just how well the engine runs and rides through a wider range of atmospheric changes. It has a lot to do with how Mikuni jets operate than anything about the carb itself. Another PZ30 would also work. Either will come with an adjustable needle.
First method - requires a little more work but is much cheaper (a couple of jets and a shim for the needle). 5-10 bucks and some of your time.
Second method - requires a bit more money. New carb and a few different jets of both types. 40-50 bucks.
|
Eeeyyy! The hawk 250 google guy! Half the stuff I google about the Hawk leads to one of your posts. I need your help. What's the specs on the Front axle nut? I know it's a 17mm Socket, flange nut, but I bought one of those and it does not fit, do you know the thread size?
Thanks for the info! I think I've read part of this before, on your "Hawk 250 Resource and Information guide." I actually planned on ditching the stock carb pretty quickly in favor of a more performance oriented one. Guess I'll have to adjust the stock one in the meantime.