Today was carburetor day.
Spent a good few hours jetting the OEM carburetor.
After my diamond rotary grinding discs arrived, and I was able to take out 2 of the 3 screws on the OEM carburetor. The third one I needed to drill out, as it was literally chipping off from me trying to loosen it.
All copper bowl bolts were replaced by higher quality steel hex bolts (no more flathead or Philips screws).
The OEM carburetor came with the same jets as a stock PZ27 from amazon that I had purchased as a backup.
The jets are interchangeable. The OEM jets are silver, the Amazon P27 jets have a golden color.
The OEM jets weren't numbered, but I measured a 40 pilot, and a 95 main jet, which is quite low.
I live near ocean level, and needed a fair bit more on the main jet than 1 setting, so I skipped the jet size 100, and drilled it out to a 105 jet.
When installing the carburetor back in the bike, I removed the washer under the main jet, as it would sometimes make the bike burp off idle (rich condition).
After a test ride, I noticed overall it ran better than with the washer, but still ran too lean from about 50% to 100% throttle. Having this obnoxiously loud aftermarket exhaust, helps tell me when I'm running too lean.
The richer I run, the quieter the exhaust gets. And this time around, the bike made more noise at 50% and up of throttle.
I lost some top speed as well.
The next drill I had was for a 110 jet size, and I was afraid that that was going to be too much; and I was right.
While idle ran great cold, as soon as the bike 'warmed up' it started throttling, and lost top speed compared to the 105 jet.
I couldn't jet it smaller anymore (I mean, I could, by putting solder back in but wasn't going to keep myself busy with that). Instead I decided to just use one of the jets of the jet-kit that was between 105 and 110. The 108 jet.
The 108 jet also ran great cold.
But as soon as the bike warmed up, I noticed the bike was slightly rich at ~10-50%, but slightly lean at 75%, and leaner the more throttle I applied from there on.
I've heard someone say it, and it's true;
The bike's carburetor is kind of hard to set up right.
So I kept it at a 108 main jet, and a 40 pilot, without raising the needle.
It caused me to lose a bit of top speed compared to stock with raised needle, but it seemed to run smoother overall.
The 40 pilot seems to be running quite rich when cold, but turns a bit more stoic when hot. I wonder how that happens?
Engine temperatures also decreased drastically. I remember doing top speed runs on the stock 95 main, and could feel the heat of that engine rise from under the tank.
Now it's running a bit too rich in the mid section, so I don't notice much in terms of engine heat radiating from under the bike.
I have to say, the bike has wonderful acceleration from a stop to about 50MPH; then creeps from 50 or 55 to 60 (indicated). My top speed does seem to be affected by the weather. Colder weather seems to slow the bike down a bit. This could be due to a new pod airfilter I'm using, that has a plastic tube longer than the other one. Should get better idle, but worse top speed. I might swap out the pod tomorrow, and see if it really affects top speed or not...
also, with the pod intake and aftermarket exhaust, the bike now idles fine around 1k RPM, vs 1.5k RPM with stock exhaust and air intake.
If you ever buy the Condor 150 or the X-Pro Vader 150, and live near to sea level,
- You can either go the easy route by putting a thin washer under the jet needle;
- Go the difficult route, and use the OEM carburetor and drill out the jets to a 105 or 108.
- Or go the more expensive route, and get a PZ27 from Amazon or Fleabay, and a jetkit, and install a 108 main jet.
For some reason, there are no pilot jets available for a PZ carburetor.
I'm interested to see how my MPG values will change. Probably lower MPGs.
Will need to do an MPG run soon, once the 30T rear sprocket arrives (apparently the company had sent mine to the wrong address).