[madarumoto]

Episode 25 - in Valparaiso, Chile Installed in the historic Villa Kunterbunt biker hostel, guest of the very amiable Senor Enzo and Señora Martina, I face a dilemma due my father's imminent surgery, unable to reschedule a flight home, and having no credit card to fall back on in any case. Yet, the charms of Valparaiso made me feel at ease, especially when coupled with the camaraderie of my fellow bikers, who came from Austria, Switzerland, USA, Ireland and several from Germany, mostly on BMWs. One rider was on his life's mission, which involved the death of his father, a motorcyclist. Another came from Mexico on a tiny 150cc budget bike. Not to mention the family’s mischievous but lovable Afghan dog. Experienced an earthquake and I explain the orogeny of the central Andes and San Fernández Tectonic Microplate. Visiting many attractions, including Pablo Neruda's La Sebastiana mansion, their vintage trolley busses, 130 year old cable railway funicular "asensores", and amazing street art, I also pay visit to a master moto mechanic in the capital Santiago, where I saw a vigil in response to a hate crime.