Had to buy a longer 3/8 drill bit to really get the mounting holes on the 190 bored out properly; new hardware was slightly larger. You really want the bolts to easily slide through the mounting points on the frame and on the engine, when you're lifting a heavy engine into place, all of the weight and any slight misalignment will make pushing the bolt through incredibly difficult.
Last night I was doing some probing with a multimeter on the 190 engine and made a discovery - the trigger coil for the CDI (not the spark plug coil) has one lead grounded to the engine case. That just won't work when I switch to EFI, everything else that is returning power through the engine ground (sensors, pumps, heaters, relays, switches) will add interference to the trigger signal.
I took off the stator cover to get a good look at the trigger coil and the stator itself.
Oh look a token gesture of lubrication!
There is only one ground wire coming out of the engine, but there are two green wires going into the wire covering. Me thinks the wires are soldered together somewhere inside the black wire covering.
As I thought! Now, If I (or anyone else) wanted to run a carb and a CDI instead of going EFI, I wouldn't need to do this. The stock CDI (at least on my 125 that just came out of the bike) can still get a good signal with the ground going through the engine. I am going for EFI, so I am going to unsolder the green wire coming from the stator at the point that it is soldered to the green wire coming from the trigger coil, leaving the green wire from the trigger coil connected to the green wire going through the black wire covering. I still wanted to have a wire coming out of the engine connected to the green wire coming from the stator, so I got a spare piece of wire,soldered it to the green stator wire and ran the wire through the black wire covering. Now, there is no continuity between the engine case and either lead coming from the trigger coil.
The 190 stator is sized and wired very similar to a 139qmb engine. This is a good thing... kinda. I have a 50ish cc scooter that I have installed a trail tech regulator/rectifier on. I had to modify the wiring on the stator only a little bit (I think I moved one wire from one solder point to another and disconnect another) to get it to work and now the scooter has a great charging and lighting system.
The 190 stator being sized similar to a 50cc one is slightly worrying. I'm honestly wondering if I'll have enough juice to run a fuel pump, (maybe) o2 sensor heater, a headlight/taillight, and charge the battery.
I put the stator back into the engine and everything still fits as it should with an extra wire.
Since I still don't have an engine in the bike, I took this chance to clean and lube the steering head bearings since it will be easier to get and keep the bike supported without the majority of the weight it usually has.
I don't know enough about grease to know what kind of grease was on the bearings or if it was bad, worse, or abysmal. At least the ball bearings were caged. I cleaned the bearings and races and re-packed them with some waterproof marine grease.
I noticed a little bit of rust pitting on one of the struts.
Uh Oh. Hopefully this won't get too much worse too fast, but this is from china...
I might leave the fork tubes out for a few days - depends if I can find a local B&M that sells shock oil. I want to try that "$15 fork mod", however, I have heard that our bikes (the Chinese ones, as opposed to the grom) are missing something or something is different inside the tubes that prevents us from doing said mod. I at least want to replace the oil that is in the tubes now.
That's all for tonight.