[ProDigit]

First 55 mile review.

This week I've taken the bike to work twice.
Though technically speaking I'm still in the break in period, I must say some of my opinions have changed about it.

What I totally disliked was the bike's engine braking power.
I guess it made me uncomfortable, when letting go of the throttle, and have the front dive in so much, plus those tiny tires feel more wobbly than all my other bikes.
But that has decreased, partly due to the larger 18T front sprocket (vs 15t stock), but certainly also because the engine parts are wearing in.

Over the course of the last 20 miles, engine vibrations have decreased a lot, like 20% if I have to put a number on it. The bike now also easier goes past 5k RPM, all the way to 6-7k RPM without losing too much acceleration.
On my last trip back home (45-55 miles on the ODO), I've even taken it out to 7.5k RPM with the new sprocket (65MPH indicated, 61MPH GPS verified).

It looks like this bike may have had the engine that needed a break-in procedure the most out of all my Chinese and Non-Chinese bikes I've ever owned.

At 55 miles, I did my first oil change (after dumping the shipping oil before), and added the Lucas TB Zinc Plus additive to the oil. It appears that the bike takes roughly 1.25 to 1.5qt of engine oil.
I added slightly more than 1.1QT (thinking I needed only 1QT), but the dip stick showed medium level.

So I took 5W30 oil, and poured in about 0.2-0.3 QT, and mixed it with the 10-W40 oil.
Experience with other Chinese bikes has shown me that they do prefer half and half of each (~ 7.5W35), as the engines run a lot smoother than with either 5W30 or 10W40.
Aside from engine vibrations, also MPG and top speed is also affected for the better (my 127cc Roketa bike could do 63-65MPH on the flats, which is about how fast this 150cc currently is) with the lower viscosity oil.

Research has also shown, that lower viscosity oil, doesn't necessarily deteriorate faster because of heat.
Even though lower viscosity oil can handle less heat, it's also more liquid, and thus cools off faster.
However, wet clutches may not like lower viscosity oil, and may start slipping.
Again, we'll see in the next few days if this will become an issue.
I haven't used (and probably won't use) any semi synthetic 0W oil for now.

At 55 miles, I have used 2 lines out of 6 of fuel. Not sure if they are linear, but if they are, it could mean that I could get about 165 miles out of ~1.6Gal (=100MPG), but I doubt it. I think this engine is running closer to 80MPG.
Ideally I will want to see 110MPG out of this bike with my new rear sprocket, though we will see the values as they come in...


I still smell some burning chemicals (plastics?), when the engine gets hot.
It used to be when I just fired up the engine, but now you can mostly only smell it after a +45-50MPH ride, and waiting at a stoplight or so.
This could be some of the engine enamel, used to coat the bike that either found its way on the cylinder heat fins, or exhaust, and is burning off...

The bike cold, currently idles at around 1200RPM, but only when the temps are above ~70F.
At 65, it still stalls cold. But after warming up it will idle at 1200RPM.
When hot, especially after a small high-speed race, the engine idles closer to 1900RPM.
It'll take about a minute for it to drop to ~1750 RPM...

I find the handlebars too low and too wide (about 1 to 2" too wide on each side). I feel like an ape pulling on a bar.
I will try to find some aftermarket bars, that will be closer to my face, for a more upright position.

The seat, though comfortable, also starts making my butt numb, and that after only half an hour.
It probably has to do with the lower driver position (compared to passenger seat height).
I was wondering if you think newer straighter saddles would be a plugin replace of older style grom bike saddles?

I also painted my chain with black plastidip. It won't do much to where the chain meets the sprockets, but certainly helps prevent rusting on the other exposed parts. It looks cool, and works.