Thanks for the info and the kind words, I bought some permatex ultra copper right after I started this project, but wasn't aware it was sensor-safe. Well, there goes that worry... for now.
The intake clocking flange arrived and fits beautifully. At first I tried mounting the manifold pointing out toward the right side of the bike, but either the throttle cable mounting point hit the bottom of the frame, the clutch cable was pushing and rubbing on the injector housing, or the air filter would have gotten in the way of where the oil cooler will live. Right now I have it pointing out the left side, perpendicular to the bike frame and engine. The wires will be tied up to the frame on either the left or right side, so they won't get in the way of the throttle operation. The throttle cable itself does sit at an odd and possibly uncomfortable position; it exits the throttle body pointing about... 2'clock, but then goes through a 90 degree bend and points downward toward the cylinder head. It's difficult to explain, you can kind of see what I mean in one of the pictures. Everything else has plenty of room around it, the idle air screw, the worm-drive clamp for the air filter, the fuel injector hose barb and electrical connector. The air filter even clears the red side-fairings.
A note on the air filter though - as you might be able to tell in one of the pictures, the air filter that comes with the 190 will not fit on the TB from aliexpress, the fiter is too big. The filter size that the VM22 uses DOES fit, I think it is 38mm, but I'm not sure. I'm going to be using the filter that I used with the VM22 when it was on the 125.
The stock bolts that are used to mount the intake manifold to the intake port are too long to use with the clocking flange, well one of them will be. One of the bolt holes on the intake manifold has more distance in the manifold to go through. I probably didn't explain that very well. What happens is one of the bolts will fasten as expected, but the other one bottoms out on the cooling fins before clamping the manifold down. No big problem, just grind and cut away some of the bolt and it'll be right.
I bolted the coolant (cylinder in out case) temp sensor to a hole near the bottom of the cylinder jug that was already threaded. I assume there mounting points are for those chin fairings I see on some of the croms. I'm going to wrap the wire in something to protect it from the heat and abrasion of rubbing against the engine case.
Since I had already run a cable up to the dashboard area with an LED indicator for the wideband, I thought I might as well run the LED indicator that the ECU has up there as well. Not much to explain here; I just lengthened the wire that the LED was connected to.
I connected all the electrical connectors except for the fuel pump and the wideband controller, connected a battery to the bike, connected a laptop to the ECU, and turned on the switch. Woo Hoo! No magic blue smoke! MAP, manifold temp, cylinder temp, throttle position, battery voltage, and both relays connected to the fuel pump enable signal worked and displayed correct readings. One word of note that I should mention - make sure the wire that connects the CDI to the ignition coil is connected to the coil and not disconnected or touching anything that is grounded to the bike's battery. Sweaty hands, dry air, and high voltage mix together with... shocking results. If you touch or hold the output from the CDI while grounded, you will become the coil and spark plug. Another way to say this is don't include yourself in the ignition circuit!
There are only one or two somewhat big things still to do, but lots more tiny things to do and some things to buy or think if I really need to buy them.
So far I have to:
- sync ECU and engine timing
- lube all cables
- vasoline/dielectric grease on all connectors prone to corrosion
- maybe buy trailtech R/R
- replace front brake hardware (one of the bolts and nuts are starting to rust)
- loc-tite all bolts
- adjust valves
- JB weld vacuum nipple (tehehe) onto fuel pressure regulator
- maybe purchase or fabricate fender eliminator
- replace firefly-in-a-test-tube headlights
- weld o2 sensor bung
- maybe extend exhaust down 1/4" - 1/2" to help clear starter motor
- shield starter motor from radiant exhaust heat somehow
- fabricate exhaust hanger
- get different bolts for exhaust studs (the long "cap" kind don't fit the new exhaust pipe)
- vent gas tank somehow (add a third line or just drill a small hole in the gas cap)
- locate and mount oil cooler and lines
- buy high-pressure fuel filter
- ziptie or otherwise securely fasten fuel pump, starter solenoid, CDI, ECU, wideband controller
- maybe buy waterproof connetors
- maybe buy crimp tool for ^
- maybe buy fork oil
- buy hose rated for fuel injection
- plumb all fuel lines together
- maybe buy quick connect fitting for fuel pump
- maybe buy copper tape for EMI shielding cabling and ECU
- change engine oil
- maybe buy taps and dies for whatever the threads are on the 8mm and 10mm bolts/nuts
- make a hole for the seat release cable (the release cable is too long, bunches up, and kinks under the seat. I disconnected the lock and am just going to have the cable end sticking out of the body fairing somewhere)
- reinforce battery tray (the tab on top of the piece of plastic that holds the battery barely just rests on the cross bar that is is supposed to)
- relocate ignition coil (the ignition coil is right below the ECU. I anticipate signal integrity problems if not flat-out processor crashes if I don't shield the ECU and/or cables from interference)
- connect stator ground to engine (I just need to put a bolt in the engine with a ring terminal on it)
- silicone ends of electrical connectors
- maybe buy a metal project box for the ECU (goes along with the EMI shielding mentioned above)
- buy o2 bung (if auto-repair place cannot source one)
Within the next few days is the time I'll start to wind down on the posting because there won't be much to post about, but rest assured I want this project to continue and be completed as much as you.