ChinaRiders Forums - View Single Post - BD125-8 ZS190 swap and EFI conversion

glavey · 02-04-2019, 06:22 PM

Install oil cooler
Change engine oil
Tidy-up wiring harness
Paint where rear brake lever was ground down
Wire-in kill switch and tachometer
(re)Discover an old medium-sized problem

I tidied up the wiring and somewhat-finalized the location of the wiring harness, connectors, wire and cable routing, etc. The clutch cable, as it was with the 125, had to be routed between the red fairings and the white gas tank fairing. I tried my best to get every wire or connector that would be just sitting against anything else in a corrugated cable sleeve, spiral strain relief, wrapped in electrical tape, or zip-tied securely in place so the vibrations from the engine won't abrade through the wire's insulator. Everything seems to fit inside the fairings so far.

The oil cooler mounted with only one little issue. I used the bracket that the horn was originally mounted to for the oil cooler, I remounted the horn on the bottom triple clamp. If I bolted the oil cooler on in the order of oil cooler -> mounting bracket -> nut; then the bottom triple clamp would hit the sides of the cooler at full lock in either direction. I ended up bolting it up in the order of mounting bracket -> metal spacer -> oil cooler -> nut. It now clears the triple clamp with about a 1/4" on either side.

I changed the oil. Not much to say here. I used 700mL of valvoline premium blue 8600 es 15w-40. 600mL is the usual oil change capacity (as read from a daytona anima 190fdx engine manual), 700mL is the full capacity, but the oil cooler and lines are empty. I'll check the levels after I get a chance to start the engine, or at least turn it over.

I don't know if I mentioned this in a previous post, but one thing you have to do with a swap to the 190 is cut/grind away one of the rear brake arm return spring mounting tabs. I did that plus about another 1mm from the arm right where it would touch the case. I cleaned and painted the area I ground down with some "toyota white" touch up paint I had.

I hadn't thought of this until a few days ago, with the ECU directly controlling the CDI and thus the entire ignition system, the kill switch on the handlebars isn't going to do anything. I looked online to see how the kill switch is usually wired up and it was different than what I though it was going to be, in a good way. I thought that the kill switch 1. interrupted the signal from the CDI to the ignition coil and 2. did that by just breaking the connection from those two points. It turns out that the kill switch grounds out one lead of the trigger coil inside the stator cover, and since the other lead is grounded through the engine, there can be no more signal from trigger coil, no more spark. This meant that I just had to make a "Y" fitting for the blue wire that was coming out of the engine's stator cover, one end going to the ECU as it was before and one going to the blue wire's terminal in the wiring harness' stator connector. Another thing that I assume uses that signal is the tachometer in the dashboard. I'd hate not having that.

In a previous post, I said the exhaust I bought for the bike would just barely clear the starter motor. I was wrong. It does NOT clear the starter motor. I see a few options here.

1. Get a piece of exhaust pipe welded to the part that goes in the exhaust port on the engine. This would be difficult because any welding/automotive/bike shop probably won't have the size and thickness of pipe I need in stock, and they would, unless they can decrease the size of an exhaust pipe, be butt-welding two pieces together and they'd have to weld it from the inside.

2. Cut the exhaust at a given location and weld in an extension. If I, or they, can cut the exhaust square enough, the ends of the extension could be expanded so there wouldn't have to be a butt-joint, but a (I think) lap joint. I would have to get the exhaust painted or coated again if I did that.

3. Use the old exhaust from the 125, somewhat gutted or a hybrid franken-pipe with the muffler canister part from the new exhaust on the old pipe.

4. Buy a new exhaust and eat the stupid tax.

5. Heat and bend the exhaust pipe. If worse comes to worst...

6. Remove the electric starter, use the kick starter (I'd have to grind away some of the right rear set for fitment). I have heard that the starter chains on these engines have more-common-than-it-should-be rate of failure. Struggling to get the bike started while tuning it to even be able to start isn't something I'm looking forward to...

Decisions, decisions...

Oh, and I might have to remove the right passenger's footpeg to clear the muffler. No big deal; I'm never going to ride two-up on this thing.

The bolt just to the right of the engine temperature sensor looks suspiciously similar to one on a 139qmb engine that I installed an oil cooler/filter on. I think I can unbolt that... bolt and there might be an oil return passage behind it. I can use that threaded hole for a much better engine temperature reading or to get an auxiliary oil temperature reading. I looked at the exploded parts diagram for the 190, but it doesn't show what is behind the bolt, and it just refers to the bolt as a bolt, nothing like a "external oil sensing port" or something that easy to decipher.

I think the MAP/air temp/throttle position sensor might have a small air leak. If I suck or blow through one end of the throttle body and completely block the other, air manages to enter or escape respectively. The bottom of the sensor (the part that faces the throttle body) looks like it may not have been sealed around the edges. I'm hesitant to seal it up completely, because it may need some form of atmospheric pressure inside to work correctly. I guess I can try sealing it with something easy to remove, like silicone, and see if everything still works.

02-04-2019, 06:22 PM	#30
glavey Join Date: Oct 2018 Posts: 74	Install oil cooler Change engine oil Tidy-up wiring harness Paint where rear brake lever was ground down Wire-in kill switch and tachometer (re)Discover an old medium-sized problem I tidied up the wiring and somewhat-finalized the location of the wiring harness, connectors, wire and cable routing, etc. The clutch cable, as it was with the 125, had to be routed between the red fairings and the white gas tank fairing. I tried my best to get every wire or connector that would be just sitting against anything else in a corrugated cable sleeve, spiral strain relief, wrapped in electrical tape, or zip-tied securely in place so the vibrations from the engine won't abrade through the wire's insulator. Everything seems to fit inside the fairings so far. The oil cooler mounted with only one little issue. I used the bracket that the horn was originally mounted to for the oil cooler, I remounted the horn on the bottom triple clamp. If I bolted the oil cooler on in the order of oil cooler -> mounting bracket -> nut; then the bottom triple clamp would hit the sides of the cooler at full lock in either direction. I ended up bolting it up in the order of mounting bracket -> metal spacer -> oil cooler -> nut. It now clears the triple clamp with about a 1/4" on either side. I changed the oil. Not much to say here. I used 700mL of valvoline premium blue 8600 es 15w-40. 600mL is the usual oil change capacity (as read from a daytona anima 190fdx engine manual), 700mL is the full capacity, but the oil cooler and lines are empty. I'll check the levels after I get a chance to start the engine, or at least turn it over. I don't know if I mentioned this in a previous post, but one thing you have to do with a swap to the 190 is cut/grind away one of the rear brake arm return spring mounting tabs. I did that plus about another 1mm from the arm right where it would touch the case. I cleaned and painted the area I ground down with some "toyota white" touch up paint I had. I hadn't thought of this until a few days ago, with the ECU directly controlling the CDI and thus the entire ignition system, the kill switch on the handlebars isn't going to do anything. I looked online to see how the kill switch is usually wired up and it was different than what I though it was going to be, in a good way. I thought that the kill switch 1. interrupted the signal from the CDI to the ignition coil and 2. did that by just breaking the connection from those two points. It turns out that the kill switch grounds out one lead of the trigger coil inside the stator cover, and since the other lead is grounded through the engine, there can be no more signal from trigger coil, no more spark. This meant that I just had to make a "Y" fitting for the blue wire that was coming out of the engine's stator cover, one end going to the ECU as it was before and one going to the blue wire's terminal in the wiring harness' stator connector. Another thing that I assume uses that signal is the tachometer in the dashboard. I'd hate not having that. In a previous post, I said the exhaust I bought for the bike would just barely clear the starter motor. I was wrong. It does NOT clear the starter motor. I see a few options here. 1. Get a piece of exhaust pipe welded to the part that goes in the exhaust port on the engine. This would be difficult because any welding/automotive/bike shop probably won't have the size and thickness of pipe I need in stock, and they would, unless they can decrease the size of an exhaust pipe, be butt-welding two pieces together and they'd have to weld it from the inside. 2. Cut the exhaust at a given location and weld in an extension. If I, or they, can cut the exhaust square enough, the ends of the extension could be expanded so there wouldn't have to be a butt-joint, but a (I think) lap joint. I would have to get the exhaust painted or coated again if I did that. 3. Use the old exhaust from the 125, somewhat gutted or a hybrid franken-pipe with the muffler canister part from the new exhaust on the old pipe. 4. Buy a new exhaust and eat the stupid tax. 5. Heat and bend the exhaust pipe. If worse comes to worst... 6. Remove the electric starter, use the kick starter (I'd have to grind away some of the right rear set for fitment). I have heard that the starter chains on these engines have more-common-than-it-should-be rate of failure. Struggling to get the bike started while tuning it to even be able to start isn't something I'm looking forward to... Decisions, decisions... Oh, and I might have to remove the right passenger's footpeg to clear the muffler. No big deal; I'm never going to ride two-up on this thing. The bolt just to the right of the engine temperature sensor looks suspiciously similar to one on a 139qmb engine that I installed an oil cooler/filter on. I think I can unbolt that... bolt and there might be an oil return passage behind it. I can use that threaded hole for a much better engine temperature reading or to get an auxiliary oil temperature reading. I looked at the exploded parts diagram for the 190, but it doesn't show what is behind the bolt, and it just refers to the bolt as a bolt, nothing like a "external oil sensing port" or something that easy to decipher. I think the MAP/air temp/throttle position sensor might have a small air leak. If I suck or blow through one end of the throttle body and completely block the other, air manages to enter or escape respectively. The bottom of the sensor (the part that faces the throttle body) looks like it may not have been sealed around the edges. I'm hesitant to seal it up completely, because it may need some form of atmospheric pressure inside to work correctly. I guess I can try sealing it with something easy to remove, like silicone, and see if everything still works. Attached Images Last edited by glavey; 02-04-2019 at 06:59 PM.
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