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Old 06-02-2015, 01:07 PM   #29
KirkN   KirkN is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldangrind View Post
Amen!

Man, I'd be so tempted to relieve the frame where the idle screw is obscured. I'd probably weld in a piece of round tube that I chopped in half, just so the screwdriver would make it in there.

If you remove the tank and seat, is it still difficult to remove the carb and get at the valve cover?

Ha! It's funny you mention that, because I was sorely tempted to do just that with a drill... But, the frame tubing is kind of 'angled' at that point, and it would be tough to drill a hole there with a hand drill. I used a small bit from a bit-driver set to adjust the idle speed. Watch out for the hot exhaust pipe, tho.

No, with the tank and seat off, access to the valve cover is perfectly easy. Carb access to remove it is a bit cramped, but I have large-ish hands. Smaller hands or fingers would make it easier. But, all in all, getting the carb out isn't really any more difficult than on a regular kind of frame.





The thing that makes it a pain is a combination of semi-poorly fitting plastics and my own mods.

First, off come the side covers to allow access to the seat bolts. Then, the seat and rear fender are a combined assembly and come off all together, so all the rear electrical wires have to be disconnected. Then, since the fender with the weight of the tail light 'n blinkers is otherwise unsecured, I've added a zip tie or two to keep it all from flopping around. So, those have to be clipped. The gas tank is a bit of a wonky fit, and the fuel hose has a torturous routing since there's no petcock. I had to add the in-line shut-off valve and again, all that stuff is held in by a couple zip ties here and there. And the tank wants to pinch the throttle cable if you don't get it all lined up just perfectly on reassembly. So, whine whine whine, complain complain complain.


 
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