JerryHawk250's Lifan KPX250

[Thumper]

I just completed a valve adjustment checkup on an early edition of the KPX 250. A few comments:

First, it was easy to remove the front rack mounts and underlying bolts that hold the seat on (loosened the rear rackmounts bolts to tilt the rack).
Then the battery cover and same panel on the other side is easy to remove with 4mm (I think it was 4mm) allen wrench and philips screwdriver, and the air louvre wings come off with 4 allen bolts as well.
*The fuel tank is one of the easiest tank removals I have EVER done. Nice engineering Lifan!



The photo was taken after reassembling looking up at the fuel pump from the stator cover.
-there are two connections there on the left you can remove first. 1) the fuel line (right red circle), which is released by pinching the connector (flat square surfaces on sides). It slides back (have a rag there for fuel in the line-but the fuel pump side stays sealed!), 2) The power supply line to the fuel pump (left red circle) is in the front of the thing, also easily removed by lifting (back) or pressing (front) of the tab. DONE.
The sender line for fuel gauge is under the tank, so
-Remove the two 8mm bolts and gently move the tank back to expose the fuel gauge sender connection. Disconnect that and the tank should be placed on a sawhorse to avoid dinging the seams or damaging the fuel pump connections.

Jerry has a complete video on doing the valve adjustment so go with that. Intake clearance 0.08mm (about 0.003") and exhaust clearance 0.10mm (about 0.004").

ONE other thing I ran into was the bolt holding the rear cap ran into interference with the rear engine mount (photo below). The threads are 20mm, so you can get a 15mm replacement if you are so motivated. I was able to get it off, and threaded back on so this may be just an optional replacment. You could shave the bolt down a mm or 2 and file the threads clean instead:

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Thumper

I just completed a valve adjustment checkup on an early edition of the KPX 250. A few comments:

First, it was easy to remove the front rack mounts and underlying bolts that hold the seat on (loosened the rear rackmounts bolts to tilt the rack).
Then the battery cover and same panel on the other side is easy to remove with 4mm (I think it was 4mm) allen wrench and philips screwdriver, and the air louvre wings come off with 4 allen bolts as well.
*The fuel tank is one of the easiest tank removals I have EVER done. Nice engineering Lifan!

Attachment 31603

The photo was taken after reassembling looking up at the fuel pump from the stator cover.
-there are two connections there on the left you can remove first. 1) the fuel line (right red circle), which is released by pinching the connector (flat square surfaces on sides). It slides back (have a rag there for fuel in the line-but the fuel pump side stays sealed!), 2) The power supply line to the fuel pump (left red circle) is in the front of the thing, also easily removed by lifting (back) or pressing (front) of the tab. DONE.
The sender line for fuel gauge is under the tank, so
-Remove the two 8mm bolts and gently move the tank back to expose the fuel gauge sender connection. Disconnect that and the tank should be placed on a sawhorse to avoid dinging the seams or damaging the fuel pump connections.

Jerry has a complete video on doing the valve adjustment so go with that. Intake clearance 0.08mm (about 0.003") and exhaust clearance 0.10mm (about 0.004").

ONE other thing I ran into was the bolt holding the rear cap ran into interference with the rear engine mount (photo below). The threads are 20mm, so you can get a 15mm replacement if you are so motivated. I was able to get it off, and threaded back on so this may be just an optional replacment. You could shave the bolt down a mm or 2 and file the threads clean instead:
Attachment 31604

Thanks for posting. All god information. I had removed the rear engine mount to give better access to the rear cover. Made it much easier.