Inverted fork question

2LZ · 03-23-2011, 01:33 AM

I have them on both the new Q and my Hondanoid....though the machining is a tad different, I'm sure they're the same beast.

Has anyone had them apart enough to figure out how to tighten the preload? Like maybe gutted them for seals, at some point?
I think I've asked this before.....but on Mrs 2LZ Vic Kingpin, I can just take off the top cap and crank down on the nut a few more turns to stiffen them up a bit.

I MUST change out that wimpy fork fluid in the new Q, as I did the Hondanoid. It made a TON of difference putting in some name brand 10W.
The Q seems a bit saggy in the front for my 200 pound frame.

Weldangrind · 03-23-2011, 01:37 AM

I'll be watching for responses. Son of Weldangrind and I have a Hummer with inverted forks, and I've never messed with them.

SpudRider · 03-23-2011, 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I have them on both the new Q and my Hondanoid....though the machining is a tad different, I'm sure they're the same beast.

Has anyone had them apart enough to figure out how to tighten the preload? Like maybe gutted them for seals, at some point?...

I believe the QLink, USD forks are designed similarly to my Zongshen, USD forks. I might be wrong, but I believe the only way to tighten the preload is to add spacers.

You can examine the construction of the QLink, USD forks by reading the Qingqi Service Manual (Portuguese or English). Also, one of our forum members posted a very nice tutorial at MyChinaMoto detailing how to change the fork oil in the QLink forks; this thread contains many nice photographs of the disassembled QLink forks.

Spud

2LZ · 03-23-2011, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I have them on both the new Q and my Hondanoid....though the machining is a tad different, I'm sure they're the same beast.

Has anyone had them apart enough to figure out how to tighten the preload? Like maybe gutted them for seals, at some point?...

I believe the QLink, USD forks are designed similarly to my Zongshen, USD forks. I might be wrong, but I believe the only way to tighten the preload is to add spacers.

You can examine the construction of the QLink, USD forks by reading the Qingqi Service Manual (Portuguese or English). Also, one of our forum members posted a very nice tutorial at MyChinaMoto detailing how to change the fork oil in the QLink forks; this thread contains many nice photographs of the disassembled QLink forks.

Spud

Thanks Spud! I'll check that out.

I've done the oil prior on the Hondanoid and both the Hensims and it made a world of difference. I'm hoping it does the same on the Q.

SpudRider · 03-23-2011, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Thanks Spud! I'll check that out.

I've done the oil prior on the Hondanoid and both the Hensims and it made a world of difference. I'm hoping it does the same on the Q.

You're welcome, 2LZ.

This spring I am going to change the fork oil, oil seals, and dust wipers on my Zongshen forks. I plan to document my work with photographs.

Spud

FastDoc · 03-23-2011, 12:54 PM

I think MCM has a tech thread on changing the seals on a Q which might be useful.

SpudRider · 03-23-2011, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FastDoc

I think MCM has a tech thread on changing the seals on a Q which might be useful.

Thanks for the tip, Doc.

I have thoroughly digested the MCM thread on the fork oil change, but I haven't seen a thread concerning the oil seals, dust wipers, et cetera.

Spud

FastDoc · 03-23-2011, 01:06 PM

Just checked. It was fork oil. Should still help though.

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/co...-documentation

david3921 · 03-23-2011, 03:37 PM

Yep, that was me. I did this again when I switched to 20w oil. As I see it, you can do two things beside changing the oil to get better damping. One is to install spacers under rather on top of the pipes. This type does not lend putting spacers on top like "regular" forks. If you think about it this makes sense as the forks are inverted; everything is opposite. The spacers would have the be the diameter of the sleeve that is on the pipe rather than the pipe itself. The other is to take the springs to a shop and purchase longer and/or more 'Progressive' (hee hee) ones. Here's the parts laid out.

2LZ · 03-23-2011, 04:34 PM

Awesome!

Thanks! That answers my question.
How'd you like the 20w?

david3921 · 03-23-2011, 05:41 PM

I didn't notice a lot of difference. I was trying lessen the diving that I get sometimes at slightly hard stops. It helped some but I didn't want to go too far as the ride is very nice.

03-23-2011, 01:33 AM	#1
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,095	Inverted fork question I have them on both the new Q and my Hondanoid....though the machining is a tad different, I'm sure they're the same beast. Has anyone had them apart enough to figure out how to tighten the preload? Like maybe gutted them for seals, at some point? I think I've asked this before.....but on Mrs 2LZ Vic Kingpin, I can just take off the top cap and crank down on the nut a few more turns to stiffen them up a bit. I MUST change out that wimpy fork fluid in the new Q, as I did the Hondanoid. It made a TON of difference putting in some name brand 10W. The Q seems a bit saggy in the front for my 200 pound frame. __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	0

03-23-2011, 01:37 AM	#2
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I'll be watching for responses. Son of Weldangrind and I have a Hummer with inverted forks, and I've never messed with them. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

03-23-2011, 12:54 PM	#6
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	I think MCM has a tech thread on changing the seals on a Q which might be useful. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

03-23-2011, 01:06 PM	#8
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Just checked. It was fork oil. Should still help though. http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/co...-documentation __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

03-23-2011, 04:34 PM	#10
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,095	Awesome! Thanks! That answers my question. How'd you like the 20w? __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	0

03-23-2011, 03:37 PM	#9
david3921 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,032	Yep, that was me. I did this again when I switched to 20w oil. As I see it, you can do two things beside changing the oil to get better damping. One is to install spacers under rather on top of the pipes. This type does not lend putting spacers on top like "regular" forks. If you think about it this makes sense as the forks are inverted; everything is opposite. The spacers would have the be the diameter of the sleeve that is on the pipe rather than the pipe itself. The other is to take the springs to a shop and purchase longer and/or more 'Progressive' (hee hee) ones. Here's the parts laid out.
	0

03-23-2011, 05:41 PM	#11
david3921 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,032	I didn't notice a lot of difference. I was trying lessen the diving that I get sometimes at slightly hard stops. It helped some but I didn't want to go too far as the ride is very nice.
	0