Rhino 250 Chain Adjustment

bugman2112 · 04-05-2020, 11:41 AM

Greetings,

I was hoping to get some clarification on how to tighten the chain on my Rhino 250. I watched many videos on the web of various setups and they are just not consistent.
The only common instruction that they all agree on is the inner/outer bolts that face you at the back of the bike on the end eyelet bolts. Tightening those is a critical step to adjust.

But I can't get consensus on whether the bolt on the actual eyelet end needs to be loosened. Some show this, some don't.

Also, some setups show upper bolts for the axel. Some show those being loosened during the process, some don't.

Lastly, on my rhino, there is another bolt opposite of the double bolt setup on the eyelet bolt. I assume those need to be backed out a bit to allow tightening of the front bolts?

Any help appreciated. If there is a post already covering this, just let me know.
Thanks!
-BT

Rob G · 04-05-2020, 12:27 PM

Yes, you must loosen the two bolts on the eyelets. Likewise, on one of the bolts (if not both) there should be a nut on the other side of the plate where the eye bolts go through. Here's my procedure for them:

1. Loosen and remove the outer jam nuts on the eye bolts.
2. Loosen the inside nut(s) on the eye bolt(s).
3. Loosen the two eye bolt retaining bolts (at the eyelets) and upper pivot bolts/nuts.
4. Turn the eye bolt closest to the sprocket side (clockwise to tighten the chain, ccw to loosen the chain).
5. Count the number of turns I put on the one eye bolt and do the same to the other eye bolt.

NOTE: do these in steps of 1 or 2 or 3 or whatever full turns. This will walk the axle back evenly and keep it aligned. After each bolt has been adjusted, check the chain tension and repeat until the desired tension is achieved.

6. Tighten the eye bolt retaining bolts and upper pivot bolts/nuts first, then the inside nut(s) on the eye bolt(s), and lastly put the jam nuts on and tighten them.

Good luck and have fun.

Rob G · 04-05-2020, 12:43 PM

This is my daughter's tforce, but should be pretty much the same.

bugman2112 · 04-05-2020, 12:49 PM

This is great, thank you. I just want to make sure I know what you are calling specific nuts. See the diagram below. Am I correct in the terminology assigned to which bolts?

*O* Eyelet and nuts on either side
|
|
|
| * nut (is this what you are calling “inside”?
|----------------- metal frame
* nut (jam nut #1)?
* nut (Jam nut #2)?

Thanks!
-BT

bugman2112 · 04-05-2020, 12:51 PM

Too funny, your picture is better than my drawing!
But looks like we are on the same page.
thanks again for your help!
-BT

Rob G · 04-05-2020, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bugman2112

Too funny, your picture is better than my drawing!
But looks like we are on the same page.
thanks again for your help!
-BT

Haha. Well first I drew it and took a picture of it but then remembered I had one outside I could just take a picture of that one instead. Happy to help.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 04-05-2020, 03:03 PM

PIC # 2 is the nuts I tell my customers to remove.... take the nuts off … ( #4) ,, then take number # 3 off... and throw those inside nuts away... you can not adjust the adjusters with those on... it is way to hard to loose them off.... and they are only then to move the axle forward... you can do that with a tie down on th e front a arm and over the rear shaft if you have to move it forward... do not count the number of turns or ??? measure from the front rim to the rear rim... on both side... get it within 1/2 inch .. to each other... then 1/2 deflection in the chain... and your good to go..... just make sure # 3 bolts are good and tight... the number 4 nuts … tight... and use th e 2 nuts to lock them... do not adjust these bolts if they are hard to turn... loosed # 3 bolts goodd so they turn easy... ( the number 4 nuts)……. GOOD PIC..

pillihp · 04-05-2020, 08:58 PM

Good luck with the inner nuts. They’re a pain in the butt to get a wrench on.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 04-05-2020, 09:16 PM

that is why I tell customers to remove the whole thing and take the nut off rightaway,,,, no one knows what it is really for,,,, and they only strip the threads on the adjuster trying to make it adjust when there is a locknut stopping it,.. THROW THE INNER NUT AWAY..... Is there anyone who leaves it on and unlocks it when you adjust>?? the 4 main bolts are the main thing that hold the axle after the adjustment...

pillihp · 04-05-2020, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FLASHLIGHTBOY

that is why I tell customers to remove the whole thing and take the nut off rightaway,,,, no one knows what it is really for,,,, and they only strip the threads on the adjuster trying to make it adjust when there is a locknut stopping it,.. THROW THE INNER NUT AWAY..... Is there anyone who leaves it on and unlocks it when you adjust>?? the 4 main bolts are the main thing that hold the axle after the adjustment...

One of the inner nuts was cross threaded so I had to tear the whole thing off to get the nut to move. I assumed it was there to stop forward rotation of the axle but I suppose if the large bolts are tight that won’t matter

Rob G · 04-06-2020, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pillihp

One of the inner nuts was cross threaded so I had to tear the whole thing off to get the nut to move. I assumed it was there to stop forward rotation of the axle but I suppose if the large bolts are tight that won’t matter

Phillip; you are 100% correct. The adjuster bolts are what we usually call a jack bolt and are used in surplus in the automotive world too. If the bolts on the pivot were designed to hold the axle in place, they wouldn't have added the jack bolts at all. The nut on either side created a linear rigid point so torque from the tires, transferred to the axle pivot, doesn't cause the axle to shift. Under the low torque acceleration of these machines, not so much a big deal, but at 25mph and having to slam on the brakes to avoid something, that energy transfer can be a lot, and clearly Tao didn't expect the pivot bolts to hold it.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 04-06-2020, 03:17 PM

that was a lot of words on this subject.... yes the nuts on the adjusters are only for adjusting the axle WHEN THE BOLTS HAVE BEEN LOOSEN ENOUGH... people do not do this... this is why th e threads on th e adjsuters get screwed,,, the inside lock nut that I say.. remove and throw away is just a very cheap nut,... garbage nut... save your self trouble... do this... and KEEP your main bolts GOOD AND TIGHT.. as it says about the force and torque of stopping etc... ,,, I know some common sense goes along way... but LOOK the locknut is not going to let you turn the adjusters to adjust the chain tension,,,,, plain and simple... I can not express how much help it would be to remove this nut...

Mudflap · 04-06-2020, 04:22 PM

I remove the inner nut too. It's not needed and difficult to put a wrench on. I've never had the axle get pulled backwards, only forward from the strong pull of the chain. Never liked the stock eyebolts they use so I make my own design with a hardened bolt welded to a piece of angle iron.

Rob G · 04-07-2020, 11:14 AM

Flashlightboy is right, this is a very dead horse that's been beaten way past necessary. It all comes down to what you want to do really. I leave those nuts because I see their purpose and I don't have any problem getting a wrench on them. Like both he and phillip said, they're pretty cheesy and could stand to be rebuilt or replaced with better ones anyway... actually thanks Phillip, I think I'll build up a new couple sets this week.

bugman2112 · 04-11-2020, 04:02 PM

Thanks guys this was all great information. I did have one follow up question related to the adjustment distance. I picked a point on the front arms with the wheels straight and measured to the back rims. Are you saying that the distance on both sides should be within 1/2 inch of each other? I consistently get about 1/2 inch difference. Is that worth fixing now or just wait till the next chain adjustment?

04-05-2020, 03:03 PM	#7
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	Chain adjustment PIC # 2 is the nuts I tell my customers to remove.... take the nuts off … ( #4) ,, then take number # 3 off... and throw those inside nuts away... you can not adjust the adjusters with those on... it is way to hard to loose them off.... and they are only then to move the axle forward... you can do that with a tie down on th e front a arm and over the rear shaft if you have to move it forward... do not count the number of turns or ??? measure from the front rim to the rear rim... on both side... get it within 1/2 inch .. to each other... then 1/2 deflection in the chain... and your good to go..... just make sure # 3 bolts are good and tight... the number 4 nuts … tight... and use th e 2 nuts to lock them... do not adjust these bolts if they are hard to turn... loosed # 3 bolts goodd so they turn easy... ( the number 4 nuts)……. GOOD PIC.. __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

04-05-2020, 09:16 PM	#9
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	inner nuts that is why I tell customers to remove the whole thing and take the nut off rightaway,,,, no one knows what it is really for,,,, and they only strip the threads on the adjuster trying to make it adjust when there is a locknut stopping it,.. THROW THE INNER NUT AWAY..... Is there anyone who leaves it on and unlocks it when you adjust>?? the 4 main bolts are the main thing that hold the axle after the adjustment... __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

04-06-2020, 03:17 PM	#12
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	nuts and bolts that was a lot of words on this subject.... yes the nuts on the adjusters are only for adjusting the axle WHEN THE BOLTS HAVE BEEN LOOSEN ENOUGH... people do not do this... this is why th e threads on th e adjsuters get screwed,,, the inside lock nut that I say.. remove and throw away is just a very cheap nut,... garbage nut... save your self trouble... do this... and KEEP your main bolts GOOD AND TIGHT.. as it says about the force and torque of stopping etc... ,,, I know some common sense goes along way... but LOOK the locknut is not going to let you turn the adjusters to adjust the chain tension,,,,, plain and simple... I can not express how much help it would be to remove this nut... __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

04-07-2020, 11:14 AM	#14
Rob G Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Kuna Idaho Posts: 34	Flashlightboy is right, this is a very dead horse that's been beaten way past necessary. It all comes down to what you want to do really. I leave those nuts because I see their purpose and I don't have any problem getting a wrench on them. Like both he and phillip said, they're pretty cheesy and could stand to be rebuilt or replaced with better ones anyway... actually thanks Phillip, I think I'll build up a new couple sets this week. __________________ "If money is your hope for independence, you'll never have it. The only real security that a man will have in this world is a reserve of knowledge, experience, and ability." Henry Ford. 2018 Tao Bull 200 red 2018 Tao Bull 200 green 2018 Tao New T-Force graffiti 2018 Tao New T-Force blue
	0

04-05-2020, 11:41 AM	#1
bugman2112 Join Date: Mar 2019 Posts: 18	Rhino 250 Chain Adjustment Greetings, I was hoping to get some clarification on how to tighten the chain on my Rhino 250. I watched many videos on the web of various setups and they are just not consistent. The only common instruction that they all agree on is the inner/outer bolts that face you at the back of the bike on the end eyelet bolts. Tightening those is a critical step to adjust. But I can't get consensus on whether the bolt on the actual eyelet end needs to be loosened. Some show this, some don't. Also, some setups show upper bolts for the axel. Some show those being loosened during the process, some don't. Lastly, on my rhino, there is another bolt opposite of the double bolt setup on the eyelet bolt. I assume those need to be backed out a bit to allow tightening of the front bolts? Any help appreciated. If there is a post already covering this, just let me know. Thanks! -BT
	0

04-05-2020, 12:27 PM	#2
Rob G Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Kuna Idaho Posts: 34	Yes, you must loosen the two bolts on the eyelets. Likewise, on one of the bolts (if not both) there should be a nut on the other side of the plate where the eye bolts go through. Here's my procedure for them: 1. Loosen and remove the outer jam nuts on the eye bolts. 2. Loosen the inside nut(s) on the eye bolt(s). 3. Loosen the two eye bolt retaining bolts (at the eyelets) and upper pivot bolts/nuts. 4. Turn the eye bolt closest to the sprocket side (clockwise to tighten the chain, ccw to loosen the chain). 5. Count the number of turns I put on the one eye bolt and do the same to the other eye bolt. NOTE: do these in steps of 1 or 2 or 3 or whatever full turns. This will walk the axle back evenly and keep it aligned. After each bolt has been adjusted, check the chain tension and repeat until the desired tension is achieved. 6. Tighten the eye bolt retaining bolts and upper pivot bolts/nuts first, then the inside nut(s) on the eye bolt(s), and lastly put the jam nuts on and tighten them. Good luck and have fun. __________________ "If money is your hope for independence, you'll never have it. The only real security that a man will have in this world is a reserve of knowledge, experience, and ability." Henry Ford. 2018 Tao Bull 200 red 2018 Tao Bull 200 green 2018 Tao New T-Force graffiti 2018 Tao New T-Force blue
	1

04-05-2020, 12:49 PM	#4
bugman2112 Join Date: Mar 2019 Posts: 18	This is great, thank you. I just want to make sure I know what you are calling specific nuts. See the diagram below. Am I correct in the terminology assigned to which bolts? O Eyelet and nuts on either side \| \| \| \| * nut (is this what you are calling “inside”? \|----------------- metal frame * nut (jam nut #1)? * nut (Jam nut #2)? Thanks! -BT
	0

04-05-2020, 12:51 PM	#5
bugman2112 Join Date: Mar 2019 Posts: 18	Too funny, your picture is better than my drawing! But looks like we are on the same page. thanks again for your help! -BT
	0

04-05-2020, 08:58 PM	#8
pillihp Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 27	Good luck with the inner nuts. They’re a pain in the butt to get a wrench on.
	0

04-06-2020, 04:22 PM	#13
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,873	I remove the inner nut too. It's not needed and difficult to put a wrench on. I've never had the axle get pulled backwards, only forward from the strong pull of the chain. Never liked the stock eyebolts they use so I make my own design with a hardened bolt welded to a piece of angle iron.
	1

04-11-2020, 04:02 PM	#15
bugman2112 Join Date: Mar 2019 Posts: 18	Thanks guys this was all great information. I did have one follow up question related to the adjustment distance. I picked a point on the front arms with the wheels straight and measured to the back rims. Are you saying that the distance on both sides should be within 1/2 inch of each other? I consistently get about 1/2 inch difference. Is that worth fixing now or just wait till the next chain adjustment?
	0