X-PRO Hawk 125

KawDuckSuzi · 08-07-2023, 01:08 PM

I am the proud owner of a new 125 Hawk. I won't mention my age, but I learned to ride on a H-D Super 10 in 1960. You can find plenty more information on that subject by looking up The Tiddler Invasion on Amazon, but that's another story. I also have a 1971 Yamaha AT1C-MX that I have owned for 48 years, but that's yet another story.

There is a particular question I have about my bike. It concerns the chain and rear axle. I find the little nuts and bolts that set the chain tension to be a little tricky and annoying. I set the bike up and rode it a few miles after setting the chain tension. Then I jacked it up and removed the rear axle and greased it. I have a two-part related issue. (1) I tightened the axle nut firmly without using a torque wrench. Could the nut be too tight? Do I need to loosen the nut again and use a torque wrench? If so, at what figure? (2) How tight should the rear chain be? Should I sit on the machine while pushing it up and down with my fingers?

Thumper · 08-07-2023, 01:36 PM

You may get advice to torque it to 60 ft lbs or more. I have seen the weak box steel swingarm gets crushed if you overdo this torque! The nut should have a nylon locking insert to keep it from backing off. Frankly, I think the best thing to do is get a crown bolt, drill the axel and use a cotter key. Then no more than 40 ft lbs torque when you get the axel set where you want it...

The axel is set in position by the "stand-offs" with locking nuts. The axel is NOT meant to hold the position for the chain. That is the job of the "stand-off" bolts.

There is another issue to consider on the torque. The wheel bearings will get stressed if you over-torque. The internal spacer may not be strong enough to endure much torque, and will give, creating lateral pressure, even movement on the inner race. This causes bearing fail. Search this site and you will hear about failed rear wheel bearings. In many cases, these people have gotten over-zealous with axel torque, and destroyed their wheel bearings. And some folks won't listen to this logic. It all depends on the accuracy of the bearing spacer wrt the bearing positions, strength of the spacer, and yes, the box steel of the swingarm is pretty pathetic. It will deform with too much torque. Sometimes less is more, or at least "more better"!

Just my 2 cents.

KawDuckSuzi · 08-07-2023, 03:09 PM

Thank you, Thumper. That's about what I expected to hear. I'll get out the torque wrench and loosen the axle nut a bit if I have it too tight. Yes, I understand how the chain adjustment works. The little nuts are snug to get to and seem to wiggle around too much when trying to get a wrench on them. There does not seem to be any markings on each side of the swing arm to help easy alignment side to side. As far as how tight the chain should be, I have seen various opinions. Some mention how much the chain will promptly stretch on these Chinese machines and some don't.

KawDuckSuzi · 08-07-2023, 03:44 PM

Thanks again, Thumper. I was pretty close to the 40 pound figure already, but I used the torque wrench to set it right.

Thumper · 08-07-2023, 03:48 PM

Yes. The new chain will stretch more than a good RK chain!. Is there really NO indicator notches on the swingarm for axel placement? Gee. How can the axel be aligned with the engine/front sprocket without them!!?? If they really don't exist, get behind the rear sprocket and roll the wheel while watching the chain alignment visually. Close enough for visual "center" should be OK.

I assumed you know about the process, based on your obvious many years of experience. I just make my responses complete for good measure. My first bike was a 1971 or 1972 Suzuki TS250. I rebuilt it on my front porch in 1977 with minimal tools at the age of 16. I had to replace the drive shaft and second gear, which was frozen on the shaft (my friend ran it dry). I replaced the seals on each side of the crank, counter/drive shafts, bearings for the same, overbored it, new piston, expansion chamber. The last step was aligning the shifters with a skinny long screw driver. When it was all aligned, the two case halves clapped together nicely. I knew it was good! That bike was wild after those upgrades, especially before I rejet it! Then it was just raucus.

Regarding fine tensioning (the adjustment bolts, and their locknuts), The final 1/2 turn, even 1/4 turn makes a big difference in my experience. It is worth multiple minute steps with the axel snug enough to make the axel resist movement, but still movable. With a new chain, slightly too tight won't last long!

Have fun!

KawDuckSuzi · 08-07-2023, 04:09 PM

You are right about the markings. They are tiny little bumps and they are very rough looking, so I did not recognize them as the indicators. I brought the bike out into bright light and put my face right down on it. I do need to re-loosen the axle and reset the chain tension. Thanks again. By the way, you know a LOT more about wrenching than I do. I have never taken an engine or a whole bike apart and reassembled it. I know how to do general maintenance; hop-up or serious repair, not so much.

KawDuckSuzi · 08-07-2023, 04:41 PM

I got it figured out and back together right. Thanks, all!

TominMO · 08-07-2023, 08:50 PM

Best way to get the axle straight is to measure between the center of the swingarm pivot bolt and the center of the axle on both sides. Obviously you should get the same number.

Ideally chain tightness should be checked with you sitting on the bike, as that is more real-world. Slightly loose is better than slightly tight, as that will cause it to wear even faster. But not too loose.

KawDuckSuzi · 08-08-2023, 05:22 PM

Has anyone here tried the Coleman MadDog seat pad ($23 Amazon) on the Hawk 125 or any of these hard, skinny little motocross-type seats? The seat on the Hawk 125 is clearly its worst feature.

KawDuckSuzi · 08-13-2023, 12:29 PM

I got the MadDog seat pad and installed it. I am very pleased, especially with the look of it. It does not cure the hard, narrow seat blues completely, but it helps. I ran the straps underneath the frame. There was no point in struggling to get the straps underneath the tight seat.

bigdano711 · 08-13-2023, 03:02 PM

Can you link to one of those Coleman Maddog seat pads? Cannot find it...

TominMO · 08-13-2023, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Can you link to one of those Coleman Maddog seat pads? Cannot find it...

Here you go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

08-07-2023, 01:08 PM	#1
KawDuckSuzi Join Date: May 2023 Location: Texas Posts: 8	X-PRO Hawk 125 I am the proud owner of a new 125 Hawk. I won't mention my age, but I learned to ride on a H-D Super 10 in 1960. You can find plenty more information on that subject by looking up The Tiddler Invasion on Amazon, but that's another story. I also have a 1971 Yamaha AT1C-MX that I have owned for 48 years, but that's yet another story. There is a particular question I have about my bike. It concerns the chain and rear axle. I find the little nuts and bolts that set the chain tension to be a little tricky and annoying. I set the bike up and rode it a few miles after setting the chain tension. Then I jacked it up and removed the rear axle and greased it. I have a two-part related issue. (1) I tightened the axle nut firmly without using a torque wrench. Could the nut be too tight? Do I need to loosen the nut again and use a torque wrench? If so, at what figure? (2) How tight should the rear chain be? Should I sit on the machine while pushing it up and down with my fingers?
	0

08-07-2023, 01:36 PM	#2
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,335	You may get advice to torque it to 60 ft lbs or more. I have seen the weak box steel swingarm gets crushed if you overdo this torque! The nut should have a nylon locking insert to keep it from backing off. Frankly, I think the best thing to do is get a crown bolt, drill the axel and use a cotter key. Then no more than 40 ft lbs torque when you get the axel set where you want it... The axel is set in position by the "stand-offs" with locking nuts. The axel is NOT meant to hold the position for the chain. That is the job of the "stand-off" bolts. There is another issue to consider on the torque. The wheel bearings will get stressed if you over-torque. The internal spacer may not be strong enough to endure much torque, and will give, creating lateral pressure, even movement on the inner race. This causes bearing fail. Search this site and you will hear about failed rear wheel bearings. In many cases, these people have gotten over-zealous with axel torque, and destroyed their wheel bearings. And some folks won't listen to this logic. It all depends on the accuracy of the bearing spacer wrt the bearing positions, strength of the spacer, and yes, the box steel of the swingarm is pretty pathetic. It will deform with too much torque. Sometimes less is more, or at least "more better"! Just my 2 cents. __________________ -2022 5 speed Templar X Orange, OEM 51T rear sprocket, 14T front sprocket -NOS 2020 KTM 250SX (2-stroke motocross), less than 10 hours on it
	1

08-07-2023, 03:48 PM	#5
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,335	Yes. The new chain will stretch more than a good RK chain!. Is there really NO indicator notches on the swingarm for axel placement? Gee. How can the axel be aligned with the engine/front sprocket without them!!?? If they really don't exist, get behind the rear sprocket and roll the wheel while watching the chain alignment visually. Close enough for visual "center" should be OK. I assumed you know about the process, based on your obvious many years of experience. I just make my responses complete for good measure. My first bike was a 1971 or 1972 Suzuki TS250. I rebuilt it on my front porch in 1977 with minimal tools at the age of 16. I had to replace the drive shaft and second gear, which was frozen on the shaft (my friend ran it dry). I replaced the seals on each side of the crank, counter/drive shafts, bearings for the same, overbored it, new piston, expansion chamber. The last step was aligning the shifters with a skinny long screw driver. When it was all aligned, the two case halves clapped together nicely. I knew it was good! That bike was wild after those upgrades, especially before I rejet it! Then it was just raucus. Regarding fine tensioning (the adjustment bolts, and their locknuts), The final 1/2 turn, even 1/4 turn makes a big difference in my experience. It is worth multiple minute steps with the axel snug enough to make the axel resist movement, but still movable. With a new chain, slightly too tight won't last long! Have fun! __________________ -2022 5 speed Templar X Orange, OEM 51T rear sprocket, 14T front sprocket -NOS 2020 KTM 250SX (2-stroke motocross), less than 10 hours on it
	0

08-07-2023, 08:50 PM	#8
TominMO Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: De Soto, MO Posts: 1,872	Best way to get the axle straight is to measure between the center of the swingarm pivot bolt and the center of the axle on both sides. Obviously you should get the same number. Ideally chain tightness should be checked with you sitting on the bike, as that is more real-world. Slightly loose is better than slightly tight, as that will cause it to wear even faster. But not too loose. __________________ 2021 Lifan Xpect--sold 2022 Lifan KPX 1972 Honda CT90--The Carrot 1969 Honda CT90--The Tomahto Cheesy is the WDK (workplace drama king). Now retired. Nope, back in the saddle. Climate: The Movie https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A24fWmNA6lM How our government really works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjadCd0VRBw Question all authority.....think for yourself
	1

08-13-2023, 03:02 PM	#11
bigdano711 Join Date: Jun 2023 Location: Big Piney, WY Posts: 428	Can you link to one of those Coleman Maddog seat pads? Cannot find it... __________________ 2023 Hawk 250 from XPRO off of Amazon MOUNTAIN MAN RC + MOTO on YouTube "If there were more bloody noses, there would be less wars." - Hagbard Celine "Someday, after mastering the waves, the winds, the tides and gravity, we shall harness for God the energies of love and then, for the second time in the history of the world, man will have discovered fire." - Pierre Teilhard de Chardin
	0

08-07-2023, 03:09 PM	#3
KawDuckSuzi Join Date: May 2023 Location: Texas Posts: 8	Thank you, Thumper. That's about what I expected to hear. I'll get out the torque wrench and loosen the axle nut a bit if I have it too tight. Yes, I understand how the chain adjustment works. The little nuts are snug to get to and seem to wiggle around too much when trying to get a wrench on them. There does not seem to be any markings on each side of the swing arm to help easy alignment side to side. As far as how tight the chain should be, I have seen various opinions. Some mention how much the chain will promptly stretch on these Chinese machines and some don't.
	1

08-07-2023, 03:44 PM	#4
KawDuckSuzi Join Date: May 2023 Location: Texas Posts: 8	Thanks again, Thumper. I was pretty close to the 40 pound figure already, but I used the torque wrench to set it right.
	0

08-07-2023, 04:09 PM	#6
KawDuckSuzi Join Date: May 2023 Location: Texas Posts: 8	You are right about the markings. They are tiny little bumps and they are very rough looking, so I did not recognize them as the indicators. I brought the bike out into bright light and put my face right down on it. I do need to re-loosen the axle and reset the chain tension. Thanks again. By the way, you know a LOT more about wrenching than I do. I have never taken an engine or a whole bike apart and reassembled it. I know how to do general maintenance; hop-up or serious repair, not so much.
	1

08-07-2023, 04:41 PM	#7
KawDuckSuzi Join Date: May 2023 Location: Texas Posts: 8	I got it figured out and back together right. Thanks, all!
	0

08-08-2023, 05:22 PM	#9
KawDuckSuzi Join Date: May 2023 Location: Texas Posts: 8	Has anyone here tried the Coleman MadDog seat pad ($23 Amazon) on the Hawk 125 or any of these hard, skinny little motocross-type seats? The seat on the Hawk 125 is clearly its worst feature.
	0

08-13-2023, 12:29 PM	#10
KawDuckSuzi Join Date: May 2023 Location: Texas Posts: 8	I got the MadDog seat pad and installed it. I am very pleased, especially with the look of it. It does not cure the hard, narrow seat blues completely, but it helps. I ran the straps underneath the frame. There was no point in struggling to get the straps underneath the tight seat.
	1