Hawk Rear Brake Sticking...?

Johnp · 05-22-2016, 04:34 PM

Hey guys, anyone had anything like this occur? I was riding today and after about 3-4 miles I pulled into a big mall parking lot and noticed that when I was trying to coast the bike wouldn't do it. It was constantly slowing.

So I stopped the bike and got off. I tried to just push it forward, and it felt like it was basically in gear, or had the brakes on.

I leaned the bike up on the kickstand so I could give the front wheel a spin. No problem.

I leaned it up so I could give the rear a spin after verifying neutral - problem. It would barely move. Seems the rear brake was dragging pretty bad.

I pumped the rear brake hard several times... I loosened and retightened the rear brake stop mechanism. Eventually it kind of loosened up and I rode it home.

Anyone know what would cause this or how to fix it?

dearthvader · 05-22-2016, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnp

Hey guys, anyone had anything like this occur? I was riding today and after about 3-4 miles I pulled into a big mall parking lot and noticed that when I was trying to coast the bike wouldn't do it. It was constantly slowing.

So I stopped the bike and got off. I tried to just push it forward, and it felt like it was basically in gear, or had the brakes on.

I leaned the bike up on the kickstand so I could give the front wheel a spin. No problem.

I leaned it up so I could give the rear a spin after verifying neutral - problem. It would barely move. Seems the rear brake was dragging pretty bad.

I pumped the rear brake hard several times... I loosened and retightened the rear brake stop mechanism. Eventually it kind of loosened up and I rode it home.

Anyone know what would cause this or how to fix it?

I had this happen on my Bashan Storm, very similar set of circumstances. Nothing would allow the caliper to loose other than opening the bleed valve with pressure on the brake lever as if I was bleeding the brakes. The problem went away and hasn't returned so far.

Johnp · 05-22-2016, 05:49 PM

Hmmm. I guess we're going to need a tutorial on how to bleed the brakes...

pcspecialist · 05-22-2016, 06:42 PM

I noticed my brake fluid reservoir was completely topped off but drained some of it before ever riding. Could be yours it too full too, it could cause the brake to drag.

pcspecialist · 05-22-2016, 06:47 PM

as for bleeding the brakes:
apply pressure to the brake pedal then open the bleeder just enough for brake fluid to start coming out and close it before the brake pedal bottoms out. (you want the bleeder closed before you release pressure or you will suck in air) Release pressure on pedal and then repeat the steps until the brake fluid that comes out of the bleeder is clear of bubbles and looks fresh. Don't allow the reservoir to run dry.

I typically suck the reservoir dry with a large syringe and fill with fresh DOT4 brake fluid before bleeding the system. If there are any bubbles in the fresh fluid, give them time to go away before starting the bleeding process. Unless you live where humidity is really low, don't keep the opened container of DOT4 for very long, DOT3 and DOT4 suck up moisture like a sponge.

Have a can of brake clean handy to spray down any spilled brake fluid because the brake fluid will eat your paint.

Ron B · 05-22-2016, 06:48 PM

On the hawk yo want a little play in the foot lever. or it will lock the rear up after using it a bit. also get rid of the water they call brake fluid.

BigDoug · 05-22-2016, 09:28 PM

Yes give it some play otherwise it will lock up when hot. Then you get to sit on the trail and wait for it to cool off. That or pee on it!

Johnp · 05-23-2016, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron B

also get rid of the water they call brake fluid.

So will it really make a difference to change out the brake fluid? One thing I've noticed is that the brakes on my bike have always been weaker than I would have expected...

Johnp · 05-23-2016, 01:03 AM

By the way, here's a photo of my brake fluid reservoirs. Engine off, and cold.

Front brake:

Rear brake:

After doing some research, they both appear to be way too full. So I just ordered this Brake Bleeder from Amazon, and I figure I'll just bleed the brakes and keep pumping fluid through until they are down to the correct levels.

Would love to hear everyone's opinions?

pcspecialist · 05-23-2016, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnp

By the way, here's a photo of my brake fluid reservoirs. Engine off, and cold.

Front brake:

Rear brake:

After doing some research, they both appear to be way too full. So I just ordered this Brake Bleeder from Amazon, and I figure I'll just bleed the brakes and keep pumping fluid through until they are down to the correct levels.

Would love to hear everyone's opinions?

If you are going to go to the trouble, you should replace the piss they used for brake fluid. empty the reservoirs, top off with DOT4 and bleed the system of all the piss.

None of the fluids that the factory put in the Hawk is any good, not the motor oil, not the fork oil, and not the brake fluid.... it all needs replacing.

'16 TT250 · 05-23-2016, 09:38 AM

If you just want to bleed some fluid down, remove reservoir cap and open bleeder. No need to pump, gravity will handle it. You can do the same to replace the fluid, just don't let it run out of fluid in between or you will be bleeding air from the system. A brake getting that hung up sounds like the master isn't retracting far enough. Check that you can push the piston into the caliper, if not the master cylinder piston is being kept in too far. You may be able to adjust the pushrod or raise the pedal stop a little bit, I don't know what adjustments are available on the Hawk.

Headred · 11-29-2017, 05:23 PM

Ok so I had the same problem. I left work and went maybe 3/4 a mile down the road to the gas station. On the way back it felt like I was losing power I thought it was carb acting up again

so I went to adjust it and aa soon as I went to reach down the bike just tried to stop with my hand holding the clutch almost caused me to go down infront of a car. Got off the side of the road and smelled a strange smell thought it was engine and I messed up something bad

Put on kickstand and stepped back to look and seen that the back disk was molten red.Let cool for a minute and tried to get it to release. Luckly I had some gloves on cause it melted the glove instantaneously and sisled. Got out their tool kit to try to bleed it but none of them were small enough for the valve so I held the break and took out part of the line until it released. Got it back home.

Now I've disassembled the back mount checked breaks and bleed the line out replacing with AutoZone dot3(same piss water btw) and it worked for maybe 4 pumps and then the two little cylinders won't come back tried adjusting the break stop and still nothing.

So is their a way yo open the master cylinder up and see what's up fix/replace ext. or is it something in the line. Ir just replace everything.

**JerryHawk250** · 11-29-2017, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Headred

Ok so I had the same problem. I left work and went maybe 3/4 a mile down the road to the gas station. On the way back it felt like I was losing power I thought it was carb acting up again

so I went to adjust it and aa soon as I went to reach down the bike just tried to stop with my hand holding the clutch almost caused me to go down infront of a car. Got off the side of the road and smelled a strange smell thought it was engine and I messed up something bad

Put on kickstand and stepped back to look and seen that the back disk was molten red.Let cool for a minute and tried to get it to release. Luckly I had some gloves on cause it melted the glove instantaneously and sisled. Got out their tool kit to try to bleed it but none of them were small enough for the valve so I held the break and took out part of the line until it released. Got it back home.

Now I've disassembled the back mount checked breaks and bleed the line out replacing with AutoZone dot3(same piss water btw) and it worked for maybe 4 pumps and then the two little cylinders won't come back tried adjusting the break stop and still nothing.

So is their a way yo open the master cylinder up and see what's up fix/replace ext. or is it something in the line. Ir just replace everything.

I've had this happen to me. Make sure that there is no pressure on the master cylinder plunger. You want it to fully return. There has to be some play.

Ariel Red Hunter · 11-29-2017, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnp

Hey guys, anyone had anything like this occur? I was riding today and after about 3-4 miles I pulled into a big mall parking lot and noticed that when I was trying to coast the bike wouldn't do it. It was constantly slowing.

So I stopped the bike and got off. I tried to just push it forward, and it felt like it was basically in gear, or had the brakes on.

I leaned the bike up on the kickstand so I could give the front wheel a spin. No problem.

I leaned it up so I could give the rear a spin after verifying neutral - problem. It would barely move. Seems the rear brake was dragging pretty bad.

I pumped the rear brake hard several times... I loosened and retightened the rear brake stop mechanism. Eventually it kind of loosened up and I rode it home.

Anyone know what would cause this or how to fix it?

Too much brake fluid in the rear resevoir has caused this problem before. When the brakes heat up, the fluid expands a little, making the brake drag which heats the brake fluid even more which makes the brake drag even more in a vicious circle...ARH

05-22-2016, 04:34 PM	#1
Johnp Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 65	Hawk Rear Brake Sticking...? Hey guys, anyone had anything like this occur? I was riding today and after about 3-4 miles I pulled into a big mall parking lot and noticed that when I was trying to coast the bike wouldn't do it. It was constantly slowing. So I stopped the bike and got off. I tried to just push it forward, and it felt like it was basically in gear, or had the brakes on. I leaned the bike up on the kickstand so I could give the front wheel a spin. No problem. I leaned it up so I could give the rear a spin after verifying neutral - problem. It would barely move. Seems the rear brake was dragging pretty bad. I pumped the rear brake hard several times... I loosened and retightened the rear brake stop mechanism. Eventually it kind of loosened up and I rode it home. Anyone know what would cause this or how to fix it? __________________ John P. 2016 Hawk 250 - Black All my mods are documented on my Blog! My Blog \| Google+ \| Twitter \| Facebook
	0

05-22-2016, 05:49 PM	#3
Johnp Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 65	Hmmm. I guess we're going to need a tutorial on how to bleed the brakes... __________________ John P. 2016 Hawk 250 - Black All my mods are documented on my Blog! My Blog \| Google+ \| Twitter \| Facebook
	0

05-22-2016, 06:48 PM	#6
Ron B Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Tuscaloosa Al. Posts: 433	On the hawk yo want a little play in the foot lever. or it will lock the rear up after using it a bit. also get rid of the water they call brake fluid. __________________ Wingless Hawk, 2016 orange RX3, 97 wide glide,2003 KLR
	1

05-23-2016, 01:03 AM	#9
Johnp Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 65	By the way, here's a photo of my brake fluid reservoirs. Engine off, and cold. Front brake: Rear brake: After doing some research, they both appear to be way too full. So I just ordered this Brake Bleeder from Amazon, and I figure I'll just bleed the brakes and keep pumping fluid through until they are down to the correct levels. Would love to hear everyone's opinions? __________________ John P. 2016 Hawk 250 - Black All my mods are documented on my Blog! My Blog \| Google+ \| Twitter \| Facebook Last edited by Johnp; 05-23-2016 at 01:53 AM.
	0

05-22-2016, 06:42 PM	#4
pcspecialist Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 583	I noticed my brake fluid reservoir was completely topped off but drained some of it before ever riding. Could be yours it too full too, it could cause the brake to drag.
	1

05-22-2016, 06:47 PM	#5
pcspecialist Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 583	as for bleeding the brakes: apply pressure to the brake pedal then open the bleeder just enough for brake fluid to start coming out and close it before the brake pedal bottoms out. (you want the bleeder closed before you release pressure or you will suck in air) Release pressure on pedal and then repeat the steps until the brake fluid that comes out of the bleeder is clear of bubbles and looks fresh. Don't allow the reservoir to run dry. I typically suck the reservoir dry with a large syringe and fill with fresh DOT4 brake fluid before bleeding the system. If there are any bubbles in the fresh fluid, give them time to go away before starting the bleeding process. Unless you live where humidity is really low, don't keep the opened container of DOT4 for very long, DOT3 and DOT4 suck up moisture like a sponge. Have a can of brake clean handy to spray down any spilled brake fluid because the brake fluid will eat your paint.
	1

05-22-2016, 09:28 PM	#7
BigDoug Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ Posts: 30	Yes give it some play otherwise it will lock up when hot. Then you get to sit on the trail and wait for it to cool off. That or pee on it!
	0

05-23-2016, 09:38 AM	#11
'16 TT250 Join Date: May 2016 Location: Hacienda Heights, Ca Posts: 281	If you just want to bleed some fluid down, remove reservoir cap and open bleeder. No need to pump, gravity will handle it. You can do the same to replace the fluid, just don't let it run out of fluid in between or you will be bleeding air from the system. A brake getting that hung up sounds like the master isn't retracting far enough. Check that you can push the piston into the caliper, if not the master cylinder piston is being kept in too far. You may be able to adjust the pushrod or raise the pedal stop a little bit, I don't know what adjustments are available on the Hawk.
	0

11-29-2017, 05:23 PM	#12
Headred Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 1	Ok so I had the same problem. I left work and went maybe 3/4 a mile down the road to the gas station. On the way back it felt like I was losing power I thought it was carb acting up again so I went to adjust it and aa soon as I went to reach down the bike just tried to stop with my hand holding the clutch almost caused me to go down infront of a car. Got off the side of the road and smelled a strange smell thought it was engine and I messed up something bad Put on kickstand and stepped back to look and seen that the back disk was molten red.Let cool for a minute and tried to get it to release. Luckly I had some gloves on cause it melted the glove instantaneously and sisled. Got out their tool kit to try to bleed it but none of them were small enough for the valve so I held the break and took out part of the line until it released. Got it back home. Now I've disassembled the back mount checked breaks and bleed the line out replacing with AutoZone dot3(same piss water btw) and it worked for maybe 4 pumps and then the two little cylinders won't come back tried adjusting the break stop and still nothing. So is their a way yo open the master cylinder up and see what's up fix/replace ext. or is it something in the line. Ir just replace everything.
	0