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Old 05-22-2019, 09:29 PM   #1
Maadcat   Maadcat is offline
 
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WOT on first start of Hawk 250

Well,

I got the bike finally the way I wanted, with the upgraded Minkuni with a 115 jet and the new chain and sprocket, changed out the oil. Otherwise it is stock. On my first start with no choke I got what seemed like wide open throttle. I quickly shut it down. I turned the idle screw on the carb all the way in. Next start did the same thing. I checked the throttle cable and plunger and it seems like I am getting a full return on the throttle. Any other thoughts on what to check next? I don't want to blow the engine right out of the blocks....

I did search around before I posted and didn't find anything obvious..sorry if I missed a previous thread.


 
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Old 05-22-2019, 09:41 PM   #2
ChipToothy   ChipToothy is offline
 
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Twist the top of the carb off and make sure the needle/spring isn’t bundled up in some way. My v26 clone has done it at least 3 times.
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:56 AM   #3
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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racing idle on a cold start is a solid symptom of a lean idle mixture/pi;ot circuit. I see you mention a 115 main jet, but did you change the pilot jet? The proper mikuni clones come with a 20 pilot, which is too lean for these bikes. If you combine that with a too lean idle mixture setting you can end up in this scenario.

Other possible cause is a vacuum leak causing said lean condition. Throttle slide cap seal may be bad, intake seal is bad, or a tear/crack in the rubber.

My recommended Mikuni setup on an otherwise stock bike is a 25 pilot, 105 to 110 main and needle in the 4th notch down. Pretty bulletproof starting setup for a stock CG250 below 4000ft.
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:29 AM   #4
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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First check that the slide is closed all the way. Is there enough slack in the throttle cable to let the slide close? also check that the slide is not in backwards. (turned 180*)
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Last edited by JerryHawk250; 05-23-2019 at 08:18 AM.
 
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:24 AM   #5
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Agreed. Sounds like something isn't right with the slide. Also, check to make sure the cable sheath seats all the way down into the slide cap
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Old 05-23-2019, 11:12 AM   #6
Sport Rider   Sport Rider is offline
 
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remember to also hold your left nut when you start it. people always seem to forget that.

Dan...Idle screw at 1 1/2 turns? 1 3/4?


 
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Old 05-23-2019, 02:47 PM   #7
Maadcat   Maadcat is offline
 
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Thank you all for the responses. In summary, I'll pull the carb and check the slide to make sure it is actually seating all of the way and the needles setting is correct. If that doesn't work it sounds like digging further into the carb and maybe changing out the pilot jet. Oh yeah, grab left nut while holding in the clutch and starting....That will be tonight's project.


 
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Old 05-23-2019, 03:25 PM   #8
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maadcat View Post
Thank you all for the responses. In summary, I'll pull the carb and check the slide to make sure it is actually seating all of the way and the needles setting is correct. If that doesn't work it sounds like digging further into the carb and maybe changing out the pilot jet. Oh yeah, grab left nut while holding in the clutch and starting....That will be tonight's project.
Jetting wouldn't create a WFO situation. I'm betting something's up with the slide. We actually had a member here, who was mechanically inclined, accidentally put one in backwards. Things happen.........
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Old 05-24-2019, 08:44 AM   #9
Maadcat   Maadcat is offline
 
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Last night I got it running! I think it was either total incompetency on my part or a combination of things. I pulled the carb, pulled the slide entirely, swapped the slide for the clone (I just left the stock slide/needle on it before), and carefully reassembled everything. However, in the process of pulling everything apart I suddenly realized that the idle adjust screw works in the reverse of how I was thinking of it. When everyone said run the screw in all the way and then back it off 1 1/2 turns, I assumed that all the way in was closing an idle air/fuel channel. I didn't realized until I looked at the slide and throat that all the way in was holding the slide open....DUH! So I ran the screw out all the way, made sure the slide was closing all the way. And give it a go. Sure enough the bike turned over and putt..putt....turned the screw in a little further....putt putt putt. A little more and the bike fired right up and idles great. So now for the burn in cycles and I'm on my way. Thanks again for everyone's help. I bought this bike to force me to learn these things. So far so good.


 
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Old 05-24-2019, 08:50 AM   #10
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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That is the idle speed screw you have been playing with on the side of the carb. The idle mixture screw is on the bottom of the carb hidden under a plastic or brass plug that you will have to remove on the stock carb. That is the screw everyone is talking about setting from seated 1 1/2 turns.
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2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S
2004 Honda ST 1300
2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold)
Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:26 AM   #11
Maadcat   Maadcat is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
That is the idle speed screw you have been playing with on the side of the carb. The idle mixture screw is on the bottom of the carb hidden under a plastic or brass plug that you will have to remove on the stock carb. That is the screw everyone is talking about setting from seated 1 1/2 turns.

Yep!


 
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Old 05-24-2019, 12:56 PM   #12
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
Jetting wouldn't create a WFO situation.
I've seen a minute vacuum leak create a racing idle (5000rpm). Might not be "WFO" but when you just start an engine and it shoots the revs up that high instantly...
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