Hawk DLX - Durability

sek8271 · 07-22-2021, 05:11 PM

How durable is the Hawk DLX? Would it be able to stand up to a BDR ride? Specifically UTBDR?

stewbrash · 07-22-2021, 09:58 PM

No Feedback yet? What's up DLX riders?

franque · 07-23-2021, 01:04 AM

I think this would apply to any of the cheaper designed Chinese bikes, but put simply, if it wasn't ridden aggressively, it might be fine, but you might also find yourself stranded in the middle of the desert if you took one of these.

If you tried to use one, I would build up different wheels for it (get some quality rims and spokes) and I would replace all bearings, bushings, and seals with quality, name brand stuff like Timken, SKF, etc.

Also I would look at swapping a stronger swingarm onto one, but also making sure that you have good knowledge on how to repair/adapt to make things work.

There are people on here (I would assume that they just assemble and ride, rather than going over things with a fine-toothed comb) who have had wheels on even the DLX go bad during normal riding.

If it were my money, I would avoid the RX3 and the DLX and get a GPX FSE250E, they're still made in China, but with top shelf stuff, I personally know a guy that rode the 7 miles of Hell and the tour of Idaho (Google them both if you're interested in finding out about them) on a GPX.

Plus, GPX is based in Utah, with possibly the best customer service in the business. I'd stick with them rather than something super cheap.

Oldenslow · 07-23-2021, 09:53 AM

Since virtually all Chinese motorcycles are copies of existing proven designs there is not much to worry about from the design standpoint. Where they fall short of those originals is in quality of parts and care of assembly, which are both lacking in every example I have seen. This doesn't mean they are "bad" bikes, but it does mean that an owner who is somewhat mechanically skilled and meticulous in his maintenance practices will be happier in the long run than the owner who expects to jump on and ride without worries. It is quite common to see brand-new bikes with loose spokes and out-of-round wheels, loose or severly obvertightened bolts, poor quality welds, etc. It is good to remember that these bikes are inexpensive because of low labor costs, yes, but also because just about every component is usually the very cheapest example available. Sparkplugs, lightbulbs, even fluids and oils will all likely need to be changed out sooner than you'd need to with any mainstream bike. These bikes can, and do, provide years of transortation for many thousands of people, but they require an added measure of care from an owner of above-average dedication to do so. You simply cannot expect otherwise from a machine that costs a fraction of what a similar Japanese machine would cost. Japanese-level reliability/durability comes with a Japanese-level price. If that's too high for you, you can still ride IF you're willing to invest the added time and effort a Chinese bike will require. Otherwise, apply patience and save your money for a better bike.

sek8271 · 07-23-2021, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franque

If it were my money, I would avoid the RX3 and the DLX and get a GPX FSE250E, they're still made in China, but with top shelf stuff, I personally know a guy that rode the 7 miles of Hell and the tour of Idaho (Google them both if you're interested in finding out about them) on a GPX.

Plus, GPX is based in Utah, with possibly the best customer service in the business. I'd stick with them rather than something super cheap.

For that kind of money, I'd go for a DRZ-400 or DR-650.

sek8271 · 07-23-2021, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franque

I think this would apply to any of the cheaper designed Chinese bikes, but put simply, if it wasn't ridden aggressively, it might be fine, but you might also find yourself stranded in the middle of the desert if you took one of these.

If you tried to use one, I would build up different wheels for it (get some quality rims and spokes) and I would replace all bearings, bushings, and seals with quality, name brand stuff like Timken, SKF, etc.

Also I would look at swapping a stronger swingarm onto one, but also making sure that you have good knowledge on how to repair/adapt to make things work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldenslow

[...]Where they fall short of those originals is in quality of parts and care of assembly, which are both lacking in every example I have seen.

This doesn't mean they are "bad" bikes, but it does mean that an owner who is somewhat mechanically skilled and meticulous in his maintenance practices will be happier in the long run than the owner who expects to jump on and ride without worries. [...] but they require an added measure of care from an owner of above-average dedication to do so.

Thank you for the info guys. I'm helping my brother out... he happens to be a professionally trained mechanic (MMI), worked for 2-3 years at an H-D dealer, and is now working in a powersports dealership on dirt bikes etc.

If anyone can handle the details of caring for such a machine, and all the "little" upgrades to make it better, he can!

The main reason I'm trying to help him find something is because his entire riding life has been Harleys on the street, and he's just now interested in doing some ADV; but wants to get in cheap.

2LZ · 07-23-2021, 12:14 PM

The Hondoid, as it's generally referenced, is a very durable bike for commuting and trail riding, though many in Third World countries have used them for daily transportation. The main reason for the CG OHV motor designed by Honda way back. No chains and can deal with utter lack of maintenance.

Many here have even done more than easy trails and they've held up just fine. Mrs. 2LZ and I have beat the snot out of Hondoids of the past with no real issues. You just have to keep in mind what they are. Inexpensive and durable get-arounds. Not MX bikes.

Here's an example of Mrs. 2LZ and her old Hensim DB150. This was taken at about 7200 feet, up super rugged fire breaks in the Sierra Nevada near Truckee. Neither of the bikes gave us a lick of trouble on any of our rides. The little CG's just kept pulling.

TxTaoRider · 07-23-2021, 12:27 PM

I'd take my tbr7 just about anywhere that didnt require long high speed runs. But I've replaced chain and swingarm and feel pretty confident in everything else (if I was going someplace way out away from help I might put in some non-chinese wheel bearings as a precaution).

China Rider 27 · 07-23-2021, 02:05 PM

Puts more "Adventure" in a BDR quest for sure. CG strong, ride hard!

Wild Dog · 07-23-2021, 03:35 PM

Most of the things that are called "backroads" in the US, are called "Main Roads in South America".

Those CG and those frame, they been used pretty much anywhere from Deserts to Snow.

Everytime somebody ask something about these motorcycles they ask the wrong question.
"It's going to be durable??"
"It's going to handle it??"

They can handle it, and they are durable enough.
There is post that were talking about couple riding south America in "throw away" RX3. They did 12.000 miles and sold the throw away motorcycles in working order, the owner is going to do another 12.000 miles on the throw away motorcycle and it's going to be in working.

These motorcycles are made to be durable, because they were designed to be that way. They are not racing machines, they are not made to turn heads.

They are machines that were made to need little care and be able to work a long time.

What you should ask before getting into a ride with one of these motorcycles?

"Do i want to ride at the speed these machine can go?"
"Do i have the patience to ride for hours at 60/65 mph??"

sek8271 · 07-23-2021, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Dog

Those CG and those frame

This term "CG" was used in several posts, but without definition.

In this context, what is "CG"?

2LZ · 07-23-2021, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sek8271

This term "CG" was used in several posts, but without definition.

In this context, what is "CG"?

The push rod, overhead valve Honda motor (and clones).

If it had a belly button, it's a CG, if it has nipples, it's a CB (OHC) motor.

A little history.

https://www.rideapart.com/features/4...e-budget-bike/

sek8271 · 07-23-2021, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Dog

Most of the things that are called "backroads" in the US, are called "Main Roads in South America".

Right but some of the places that something like UTBDR goes can barely even be called "roads". More like jeep trails, or an obvious path through the rocks.

6"+ rock shelves, up and down. Very rough and rocky terrain. You WILL drop the bike in to rocks.

That's hard on any bike, I think it's reasonable to question if the suspension and chassis of a low cost machine can hold up to that kind of abuse (and it really is abuse, not use!)

Is this the kind of context you're commenting in?

sek8271 · 07-23-2021, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

The push rod, overhead valve Honda motor (and clones).

If it had a belly button, it's a CG, if it has nipples, it's a CB (OHC) motor.

A little history.

https://www.rideapart.com/features/4...e-budget-bike/

Belly button? nipples? Could you elaborate, using the correct names for things?

I've never heard those terms before; I've only been riding for ten years or so and I'm neither a mechanic or aficionado, I just go out and have fun

franque · 07-23-2021, 06:13 PM

I'm a mechanic myself, and I gave you my opinion. It really depends on how he wants to ride the bike, but I would expect the wheels to explode in short order if not ridden gently on the UTBDR.

I would think most people that do the TAT who also have factory wheels (on big 4 bikes) are probably not riding them too hard, because those trails are tough on man and machine. I'd look at putting on some DID or Excel rims to replace the factory equipment, regardless, except with the GPX.

I recommended the GPX because it's basically a budget KTM using modern, high quality components, and excepting the air cooled and 2t bikes they have, all of the motors are modern designs, the same cannot be said with a DR or DRZ.

07-22-2021, 05:11 PM	#1
sek8271 Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Kansas Posts: 11	Hawk DLX - Durability How durable is the Hawk DLX? Would it be able to stand up to a BDR ride? Specifically UTBDR?
	0

07-23-2021, 12:27 PM	#8
TxTaoRider Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Flower Mound Texas Posts: 904	I'd take my tbr7 just about anywhere that didnt require long high speed runs. But I've replaced chain and swingarm and feel pretty confident in everything else (if I was going someplace way out away from help I might put in some non-chinese wheel bearings as a precaution). __________________ 2021 Tao Tbr7 - "Lucille" Mods so far- Brozz swingarm, 21" front rim (Bridgestone Tw302 rear/Dunlop D606 front tires), Digital gauge cluster, pz30b pumper carb, after market hand guards, aftermarket brake and clutch levers, round fold away mirrors, Fly handlebars shortened slightly, 13t front sprocket 2009 Q-link Legacy 250 1982 Suzuki GS1100ES - "Jolene"
	0

07-22-2021, 09:58 PM	#2
stewbrash Join Date: Oct 2016 Posts: 405	No Feedback yet? What's up DLX riders?
	0

07-23-2021, 01:04 AM	#3
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	I think this would apply to any of the cheaper designed Chinese bikes, but put simply, if it wasn't ridden aggressively, it might be fine, but you might also find yourself stranded in the middle of the desert if you took one of these. If you tried to use one, I would build up different wheels for it (get some quality rims and spokes) and I would replace all bearings, bushings, and seals with quality, name brand stuff like Timken, SKF, etc. Also I would look at swapping a stronger swingarm onto one, but also making sure that you have good knowledge on how to repair/adapt to make things work. There are people on here (I would assume that they just assemble and ride, rather than going over things with a fine-toothed comb) who have had wheels on even the DLX go bad during normal riding. If it were my money, I would avoid the RX3 and the DLX and get a GPX FSE250E, they're still made in China, but with top shelf stuff, I personally know a guy that rode the 7 miles of Hell and the tour of Idaho (Google them both if you're interested in finding out about them) on a GPX. Plus, GPX is based in Utah, with possibly the best customer service in the business. I'd stick with them rather than something super cheap.
	0

07-23-2021, 09:53 AM	#4
Oldenslow Join Date: Mar 2020 Posts: 153	Since virtually all Chinese motorcycles are copies of existing proven designs there is not much to worry about from the design standpoint. Where they fall short of those originals is in quality of parts and care of assembly, which are both lacking in every example I have seen. This doesn't mean they are "bad" bikes, but it does mean that an owner who is somewhat mechanically skilled and meticulous in his maintenance practices will be happier in the long run than the owner who expects to jump on and ride without worries. It is quite common to see brand-new bikes with loose spokes and out-of-round wheels, loose or severly obvertightened bolts, poor quality welds, etc. It is good to remember that these bikes are inexpensive because of low labor costs, yes, but also because just about every component is usually the very cheapest example available. Sparkplugs, lightbulbs, even fluids and oils will all likely need to be changed out sooner than you'd need to with any mainstream bike. These bikes can, and do, provide years of transortation for many thousands of people, but they require an added measure of care from an owner of above-average dedication to do so. You simply cannot expect otherwise from a machine that costs a fraction of what a similar Japanese machine would cost. Japanese-level reliability/durability comes with a Japanese-level price. If that's too high for you, you can still ride IF you're willing to invest the added time and effort a Chinese bike will require. Otherwise, apply patience and save your money for a better bike.
	0

07-23-2021, 02:05 PM	#9
China Rider 27 Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: PNW Posts: 982	Puts more "Adventure" in a BDR quest for sure. CG strong, ride hard!
	0

07-23-2021, 03:35 PM	#10
Wild Dog Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Argentina Posts: 756	Most of the things that are called "backroads" in the US, are called "Main Roads in South America". Those CG and those frame, they been used pretty much anywhere from Deserts to Snow. Everytime somebody ask something about these motorcycles they ask the wrong question. "It's going to be durable??" "It's going to handle it??" They can handle it, and they are durable enough. There is post that were talking about couple riding south America in "throw away" RX3. They did 12.000 miles and sold the throw away motorcycles in working order, the owner is going to do another 12.000 miles on the throw away motorcycle and it's going to be in working. These motorcycles are made to be durable, because they were designed to be that way. They are not racing machines, they are not made to turn heads. They are machines that were made to need little care and be able to work a long time. What you should ask before getting into a ride with one of these motorcycles? "Do i want to ride at the speed these machine can go?" "Do i have the patience to ride for hours at 60/65 mph??"
	1

07-23-2021, 06:13 PM	#15
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	I'm a mechanic myself, and I gave you my opinion. It really depends on how he wants to ride the bike, but I would expect the wheels to explode in short order if not ridden gently on the UTBDR. I would think most people that do the TAT who also have factory wheels (on big 4 bikes) are probably not riding them too hard, because those trails are tough on man and machine. I'd look at putting on some DID or Excel rims to replace the factory equipment, regardless, except with the GPX. I recommended the GPX because it's basically a budget KTM using modern, high quality components, and excepting the air cooled and 2t bikes they have, all of the motors are modern designs, the same cannot be said with a DR or DRZ.
	1