Hawk dlx stumped and think I know the answer

[Sailor4809]

So it's the final days of riding here in northern Indiana and decided to go cruising the other day. I made it about a mile from home and coming to a stop light I started downshifting and once I hit neutral the bike died. Still had lights but no fire. Tried to kickstart and got nothing (how I had to begin with, 8 month stock battery is officially shot), also tried bump starting on a steep incline. No fire. I pushed it home where for shits and giggles tried kicking it again and it worked all of 5 seconds. Fuel pump would barely prime but could smell gas. Was getting a prickle of a shock off kick starting it. 2 days ago I couldn't even get FP primed or any shock kicking. Checked fuses and were good.
Yesterday I bought jump cables and with engine off I connected to the bike and it'd make compression but again no FP, spark, no CEL.
Started with Killswitch and the switch works off multimeter testing for continuity. Thinking about it I didn't test voltage off the wires at the connection box. Although I did test for continuity and got OL so figure it might carry current anyway?
Relay clicks when it's pulled out so it works, fuses changed.
What do you think the odds are it's the ECU? That's the last thing I can can think of being the issue.

[flopsweat]

Originally Posted by Sailor4809

Although I did test for continuity and got OL so figure it might carry current anyway?

You got "OL" on the multimeter? That means "overload", aka zero connection, so it would not pass current. If that is the case, I would trace that wire down.



Side note on anyone using the "continuity" function on a multimeter, although it's a decent quick check, it may not always be accurate. Most/many meters will consider anything under 30 ohms to be a "short", but I've seen many many many things that will show continuity which are NOT fully connected. For example, if you have a stranded wire, and all but one strand frays, and that last hair is partially corroded, you could theoretically get a beep on the continuity test, but it may not pass as much current as it needs to because it might actually be 20ohms or something.


The most accurate way to check for continuity is by looking at ohms, because you'll know for sure when you see "0.02 ohms" that it's actually a short.

[Sailor4809]

It's 100% not the Killswitch. Took a jumper wire and jumped at the connection box. It's making relay click as well as can cause it to run ignition cycle, still without spark or fuel pump. Same happens when using Killswitch.
Next route to be ECM?

[Sailor4809]

So here's where I'm at.
Got 12v to/from the main relay (new).
Have 12 going to the coil but not to the plug (tested inside boot)
Do not have power going to the fuel pump, but hot wired it actuated.
Jumping kill switch I can bypass it and get 12vout the relay.

Do I spend the 135$ on a new ECM or is there anything else to try first. I understand that the ECM functions as timing, FP flow rate, and air intake, but I hate having to buy one and it not be the culprit.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Giving it until Sunday night and then making the purchase.

[Thumper]

I am sorry to see another EFI nightmare. OK. Maybe just a bad temporary dream, but...

EFI almost never fails. But then it does.

All I can say is word to the wise...buy a bike with CDI and a carburetor. Simple and effective. Yeah you need to jet it properly and use a choke when it's cold.

I am truly sorry to OP that I can't offer advice other than my original advice... buy a carbed bike.

[Sailor4809]

Oh trust me I've about had it lol. Once it's running I'm selling it.
ECM going out makes sense because the tach stopped working (well functioning properly) and the CEL wouldnt ever throw a code doing the key stroke method when it would die out on me riding back during the summer. But honestly it's been a fairly reliable bike this year. Close to 7k miles and never had to have itowed

Just need to figure out why no spark and no fuel

[buzz]

What Thumper said, no way for me.